Charging system upgrade

[wsteele]

You are definitley on the right path with insuring your entire charging system is in perfect working order. These vehicles are power hogs with DVD/BOSE/Rear AC/Heated seats/onboard air compressor/front electronic struts/heated pwr mirrors/Rear window defrost. Wow i wonder if every accessory were turned on simultaneous what the current draw would be?

You definitely said it with the draw, some of it spooling up when you open the driver's door and not spooling down for a few hours (not sure the exact timing of the spool down) after shutting things down. I guess it is the price we pay for bells and whistles. Makes me laugh when I think about my Dad not getting AC in his cars, new fangled gadgets!

I started a thread a while back, triggered by first replacing an alternator and then incorrectly concluding my battery was compromised.

The old alternator appeared to function properly, just judging from the dash voltages. I replaced it due to bearing noise.

In my truck’s case my original battery lasted like 9 years (pretty temperate climates). My second, an Interstate (I think wet cell, but not 100% certain), lasted like 4 years. My current battery, a Napa Legend Series (AGM), looked like it was on its way out in like a year in a half (at first I concluded due to maybe the alternator not working as well as I thought it was from normal panel readings, later realizing the battery was not in as bad a shape as I first erroneously thought due to when and how I was measuring it, related to the spool up and down of an innocent driver's door being opened).

I am just trying to understand how the RVC system works, what mods the OP made that prompted his conclusion and how all that relates to a stock system. I know there are a lot of moving parts when trying to predict a given components longevity, anything I can learn to help me get back to the OE (new truck parts) longevity profile is great.

 

[jeremiahm]

@wsteele that is what I have, a 4awg wire and a smaller, just adding another 4awg to from battery to ground to create a bigger path, but passed through the current sensor (which I now may replace, thanks @thompsoj22) to not mess with the charging "magic".

As to my reasoning, I work in communications and we typically have the same size path through a power circuit, on the Yukon I have basically the same size path from battery + to alternator, alt (motor) to battery -, and from motor to body (which it seems most electronics ground to and body in-turn has several grounds to frame), but frame to battery - is puny. I don't doubt the engineers, but I know the affect time and environment has on all of these paths.

My goal is to see if this better frame to battery - will get rid of my flickering lights and change in idle when rolling down a window (and hopefully never see the traction control light come on for no reason again)!

 

[Mighty Hd]

Just asking how you determined the current sensor is hall effect? Im pretty sure that hall effect measures distance/rotation. The current sensor on your neg bat cable works the same as measuring current/amperage through the shielding of a wire/conductor. google how a clamp meter works. Replace the battery current sensor that you are referring too, It also monitors underhood temps in an attempt to turn down voltage to prevent the battery from overtemping. The sensor/module degrade's over time. RVC is good when functioning correctly but you must have a complete charge system in optimal condition. JMO

My 13 tahoe has gone through countless batteries. All brands. The last three that I have warrantied out have been Optima Yellow Top's -- three D34 and so far two H6. I disconnected the hall sensor on the negative cable and guess what -- no more battery issues.

I was lucky to get 6-12 months out of any battery since it was brand new with 3 miles. The dealer replaced the cable a few times and 6 batteries.

The last optima that I put in under warranty, disconnected that POS sensor and no problems at all.

 

[wsteele]

My 13 tahoe has gone through countless batteries. All brands. The last three that I have warrantied out have been Optima Yellow Top's -- three D34 and so far two H6. I disconnected the hall sensor on the negative cable and guess what -- no more battery issues.

I was lucky to get 6-12 months out of any battery since it was brand new with 3 miles. The dealer replaced the cable a few times and 6 batteries.

The last optima that I put in under warranty, disconnected that POS sensor and no problems at all.

I think you disconnected the RVC sensor, I inadvertently called it a Hall Sensor (I had been reading about semiconductor Hall effect sensors in an article while simultaneously posting on this thread), I meant to call it the RVC sensor, but typed Hall effect sensor because that was what was in my head.

I am not sure if your model year is covered in this TSB, but there is a TSB for a software update to fix charging issues with the RVC system. I stumbled across it while researching RVC charging issues and battery life. I will try and locate it again. I suspect it is for earlier model years and your Tahoe probably came with the update already, but will try and find it again.

 

[Fless]

The RVC sensors are directional, so it's possible to install them in the wrong orientation.

 

[Mighty Hd]

I think you disconnected the RVC sensor, I inadvertently called it a Hall Sensor (I had been reading about semiconductor Hall effect sensors in an article while simultaneously posting on this thread), I meant to call it the RVC sensor, but typed Hall effect sensor because that was what was in my head.

I am not sure if your model year is covered in this TSB, but there is a TSB for a software update to fix charging issues with the RVC system. I stumbled across it while researching RVC charging issues and battery life. I will try and locate it again. I suspect it is for earlier model years and your Tahoe probably came with the update already, but will try and find it again.

I stand firmly corrected! Thank you for taking the time to lookup the information.

I'm pretty sure it's had all the updates, cable changes, etc. Oddly enough, once I disconnected the RVC, I have had zero battery issues. The batteries stay charged and are no longer plagued by bad cells spreading through the unit.

I initially thought by getting a deep cycle Optima that I could get at least a year out of the battery. I went from a 4-6 month replacement cycle to 6-9 month replacement. Once I unplugged the sensor I'm well over a year on the Optima H6.

 

[thompsoj22]

@wsteele that is what I have, a 4awg wire and a smaller, just adding another 4awg to from battery to ground to create a bigger path, but passed through the current sensor (which I now may replace, thanks @thompsoj22) to not mess with the charging "magic".

As to my reasoning, I work in communications and we typically have the same size path through a power circuit, on the Yukon I have basically the same size path from battery + to alternator, alt (motor) to battery -, and from motor to body (which it seems most electronics ground to and body in-turn has several grounds to frame), but frame to battery - is puny. I don't doubt the engineers, but I know the affect time and environment has on all of these paths.

My goal is to see if this better frame to battery - will get rid of my flickering lights and change in idle when rolling down a window (and hopefully never see the traction control light come on for no reason again)!

Hey, Just try an overdrive pulley 49mm/1.9 inches for $26 on ebay. If you are running the DR-44 this will dramatically improve cooling and available amps at idle. "Trust" That it works for me but "Verify" That im not some nut job that dosent know wtf he's talking about. What size alt pulley do the mechman Big $$$ alt's run? Do the math on your crank pulley diameter / alt pulley diameter for exact alt rpm at eng idle and you will find that the max output of the DR-44 cant be obtained at idle with the factory 2.45 alt pulley. Now you may have other connector/ground issues but eliminating the alternator for "insufficient current at idle" Means every ground/connector that you clean improve or add will be recognized as an improvment to the system. Im rambling but i wrench for a living on HELO's and have had my ass handed to me sooooo many times by not starting at the "origin" of the fault/discrepancy!

 

[Mighty Hd]

Hey, Just try an overdrive pulley 49mm/1.9 inches for $26 on ebay. If you are running the DR-44 this will dramatically improve cooling and available amps at idle. "Trust" That it works for me but "Verify" That im not some nut job that dosent know wtf he's talking about. What size alt pulley do the mechman Big $$$ alt's run? Do the math on your crank pulley diameter / alt pulley diameter for exact alt rpm at eng idle and you will find that the max output of the DR-44 cant be obtained at idle with the factory 2.3 alt pulley. Now you may have other connector/ground issues but eliminating the alternator for "insufficient current at idle" Means every ground/connector that you clean improve or add will be recognized as an improvment to the system. Im rambling but i wrench for a living on HELO's and have had my ass handed to me sooooo many times buy not starting at the "origin" of the fault/discrepancy!

How abotu a link to this pulley? I'm interested as well.

 

[thompsoj22]

How abotu a link to this pulley? I'm interested as well.

EBAY search DR-44 overdrive pulley,

015
SOLD BY
power_source1(1 item)

Order 49MM 1.9" Alternator OVERDRIVE 6 GROOVE PULLEY fit denso nippondenso and othersView order details

49MM 1.9" Alternator OVERDRIVE 6 GROOVE PULLEY fit denso nippondenso and others
( 253996371394 )


ITEM PRICE:
US $26.99

Understand this is for my DENSO 220 amp alts, You want the DR-44 ie delco remy. i bought that pulley in 2018 so my purchase history is gone for the link.

EDIT!! The stock pulley size of the DR-44 is 2.5 not 2.3, I just measured it.

 

[Mighty Hd]

I do have a DR-44, actually just replaced it.

I may get one of these as when the cooling fans come on, there's a significant momentary voltage drop until the system can catch up.