Charging system upgrade

[thompsoj22]

I do have a DR-44, actually just replaced it.

I may get one of these as when the cooling fans come on, there's a significant momentary voltage drop until the system can catch up.

I run the DENSO 220 as an upgrade, My DR-44 sit's under the hood on the tray at the front of the drivers fender in a tool bag just in case i need it. I upgraded for the exact reason you mentioned, I upgraded the electric fan motors from 500 watt to 700 watt and when they kicked on high it blanked out the bose stereo. 700 watt motors can pull 55 starting amps each when they cycle to high. Didnt hurt the bose but two 700 watt fans was overkill so i opted for 700 watt driver side and 500 watt pasenger side and this combo works perfect. Hot engine cooant enters the radiator from top hose drivers side which is my reasoning for running the big fan motor on the driver side.

 

[wsteele]

I stand firmly corrected! Thank you for taking the time to lookup the information.

I'm pretty sure it's had all the updates, cable changes, etc. Oddly enough, once I disconnected the RVC, I have had zero battery issues. The batteries stay charged and are no longer plagued by bad cells spreading through the unit.

I initially thought by getting a deep cycle Optima that I could get at least a year out of the battery. I went from a 4-6 month replacement cycle to 6-9 month replacement. Once I unplugged the sensor I'm well over a year on the Optima H6.

My bad on typing in the wrong sensor type in the first place.

I can't find the TSB (it may not be a TSB at all), but I did find on a few discussion forums posts regarding a GM recall that entailed a BCM reflash to address issues in the charging system that resulted in flat batteries. I believe this was the BCM update I had found originally. Given it was a recall, with specific VIN numbers called out, your truck no doubt has that update, or your dealer hasn't got an internet connection .

The doc I found originally called out the BCM update and I had planned to check against what my BCM had in the TIS records, but got sidetracked along the way and lost track the plan. I bought one of those high tech tenders and have religiously been using it. Time will tell if my 16 mo old AGM battery lasts more than the last one.

 

[kbuskill]

I run the DENSO 220 as an upgrade, My DR-44 sit's under the hood on the tray at the front of the drivers fender in a tool bag just in case i need it. I upgraded for the exact reason you mentioned, I upgraded the electric fan motors from 500 watt to 700 watt and when they kicked on high it blanked out the bose stereo. 700 watt motors can pull 55 starting amps each when they cycle to high. Didnt hurt the bose but two 700 watt fans was overkill so i opted for 700 watt driver side and 500 watt pasenger side and this combo works perfect. Hot engine cooant enters the radiator from top hose drivers side which is my reasoning for running the big fan motor on the driver side.

Got a link to the alternator you are running or what vehicle it is for originally???

Also do you run a shorter belt with this setup or is it necessary?

Thanks

 

[HD_LS]

I run the DENSO 220 as an upgrade, My DR-44 sit's under the hood on the tray at the front of the drivers fender in a tool bag just in case i need it. I upgraded for the exact reason you mentioned, I upgraded the electric fan motors from 500 watt to 700 watt and when they kicked on high it blanked out the bose stereo. 700 watt motors can pull 55 starting amps each when they cycle to high. Didnt hurt the bose but two 700 watt fans was overkill so i opted for 700 watt driver side and 500 watt pasenger side and this combo works perfect. Hot engine cooant enters the radiator from top hose drivers side which is my reasoning for running the big fan motor on the driver side.

What Brand and model of fans did you buy? That's interesting, I was not aware of available fan upgrades.

 

[thompsoj22]

Got a link to the alternator you are running or what vehicle it is for originally???

Also do you run a shorter belt with this setup or is it necessary?

Thanks

Got a link to the alternator you are running or what vehicle it is for originally???

Also do you run a shorter belt with this setup or is it necessary?

Thanks

The first one i got was from an east coast salvage yard off ebay, 220 Amp Opt KW5 ID 22949466 Fits 15-18 SIERRA 2500 PICKUP but it had alot of surface corrosion probably from salt on the roads. So i bought a new "china junk" DENSO 6860 knockoff from DB ELECTRICAL for $135 shipped. It had a 12 month warranty and is still going strong, This alt new OEM is around $700! I dont like china stuff, But so far so good and i do carry the spare DR-44 which can be R&R in less than 10 min. Yes 1/2 inch shorter on the belt and the tensioner indexer is 1/4 inch to max tension. In the summer it will still gather a little belt dust at the front of the alternator just below the pulley which defines how much tq is being used to spin the alt at idle. It only does this in the summer with cooling fans/max ac/stereo/dvd all going at once. I am happy with the setup, The DERALE trans cooler also has a remote fan so this vehicle needs DC current to be reliable but even when towing in the summer my trans temps/coolant temps are no longer a concern.

 

[HD_LS]

For those of you going through batteries do to the GM programming the voltage so low that batteries die, and the vehicles stall ... There a are number of good ways around this. 1) As previously mentioned, disconnecting the 2 pin alternator connector tells the alternator to self-regulate to 13.7-13.8 Volts. Tip: If you only disconnect the L-terminal wire, and leave the F terminal wire connected, you will not set an error code. 2) You can buy this great plug in alternator controller, and get a fixed 14.8V all the time (or pay more to get the adjustable voltage version) http://www.usalternators.com/pcm-module/ 3) ...

 

[thompsoj22]

What Brand and model of fans did you buy? That's interesting, I was not aware of available fan upgrades.

ACDELCO PN-15-80881 Rock auto sells them. Understand IMO the stock alt cant support these fan motors at idle without a minimum of an overdrive pulley being added to the DR-44 160 amp. two 700 watt fan motors cycling from low to high can pull as much as 110 amps momentarily until they get up to speed. I also advise replacing the plastic fan/fans if you go to the 700 just to insure you dont grenade a brittle old fan from the 500 watt stock motors also oem from rockauto 5 and 7 blade. 700 watt motors move an enormous amount of air but require an enormous amount of current to do it. IMO they are not plug and play and require an alternator upgrade.

 

[HD_LS]

ACDELCO PN-15-80881 Rock auto sells them. Understand IMO the stock alt cant support these fan motors at idle without a minimum of an overdrive pulley being added to the DR-44 160 amp. two 700 watt fan motors cycling from low to high can pull as much as 110 amps momentarily until they get up to speed. I also advise replacing the plastic fan/fans if you go to the 700 just to insure you dont grenade a brittle old fan from the 500 watt stock motors also oem from rockauto 5 and 7 blade. 700 watt motors move an enormous amount of air but require an enormous amount of current to do it. IMO they are not plug and play and require an alternator upgrade.

Great info! Is there perfomance to be gained by just changing the one from a 5 blade to 7 blade fan? (or vice versa, depending on which moves more air)

 

[thompsoj22]

Great info! Is there perfomance to be gained by just changing the one from a 5 blade to 7 blade fan? (or vice versa, depending on which moves more air)

No performance, Reliability is my goal as we tow a travel trailer. My thought on the 7 blade driver side is the hot eng coolant enters the radiator at the top left so this is where i want to pull the max velocity/volume of air. i also relocated the trans cooler from in front of the ac condenser to below the front bumper/fascia and eliminated the trans heat from affecting the ac/radiator system.

 

[kbuskill]

The first one i got was from an east coast salvage yard off ebay, 2014 3500 with snow plow option, RPO KW5 for $90. It worked but had alot of surface corrosion probably from salt on the roads. So i bought a new "china junk" DENSO 6860 knockoff from DB ELECTRICAL for $135 shipped. It had a 12 month warranty and is still going strong, This alt new OEM is around $700! I dont like china stuff, But so far so good and i do carry the spare DR-44 which can be R&R in less than 10 min. Yes 1/2 inch shorter on the belt and the tensioner indexer is 1/4 inch to max tension. In the summer it will still gather a little belt dust at the front of the alternator just below the pulley which defines how much tq is being used to spin the alt at idle. It only does this in the summer with cooling fans/max ac/stereo/dvd all going at once. I am happy with the setup, The DERALE trans cooler also has a remote fan so this vehicle needs DC current to be reliable but even when towing in the summer my trans temps/coolant temps are no longer a concern.

Strange.

When I look up a 2014 Silverado 3500, on RA, with gas or diesel engine the biggest alternator it shows is a 160A.

They don't list a KW5 option.