Cigarette lighter sockets to ignition instead of always on

[chandler]

I have a radar detector and dash cam that both plug in via cigarette lighter sockets. Currently they are always-hot and I need something that turns on and off with the ignition. I would like to not cut any factory wires if possible.

I was thinking maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-...TF8&qid=1379160958&sr=8-2&keywords=add+a+fuse tied with https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-12V-.../dp/B00065L2D8/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8

Would something like this work? or is there another way thats easier?

 

[Danny3737]

That will work. I bought mine at Walmart

 

[iamdub]

I'd get extra power wires for the radar detector and dash cam and run them to a fuse tap (like in your first Amazon link). You could tuck the wires in the headliner along the top by the windshield, in the A-pillar, in the gap between the dash and body an into the fuse center to a switched circuit. I'm sure the power cord ends are standard plugs found most anywhere. I bet you could type your model of radar detector and dash cam on ebay along with "hardwire" in the search box and find plenty of them with bare ends that are intended to be used for hardwiring such equipment. You wouldn't have all those power plugs and wires hanging out of your dash and it'd be cheaper.

For example, I found hardwire power cords for ******, Valentine1, Cobra, etc. radar detectors by searching "radar detector hardwire". It's the plug that goes into the detector with 10' of wire to route to the fuse center.

I know you said you didn't want to cut any factory wires, but perhaps you could tap into one of the power wires going to the rearview mirror and/or overhead console? My work van doesn't have a mirror because it's an enclosed cargo van with no windows. But, there's factory wiring tucked up inside the headliner that would go to a mirror with map lights, compass, etc. I tapped into a switched 12V to power my radar detector since I keep it mounted where the mirror would be.

 

[chandler]

What fuse slot should I plug it into?

 

[iamdub]

Hmmm...

I just searched a little and, apparently, there's not a switched circuit in these trucks. The accessories are turned on and off by a data bus. I DID find that there should be an empty 6-pin plug in the distribution panel to the left of the brake pedal. The far left side pins of this plug should be a switched 12V source. If you use those hardwire kits off ebay, it'll have an inline fuse. You can tap the radar detector and dash cam to the same terminal on this plug.

I personally haven't seen any of this. It's just what I read from a quick search.

 

[domoarigato]

yes you are correct there is no switched power you can easily tap into on these trucks.

you can however do this:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...-accessory-power/?hl=Retained+Accessory+Power

 

[2011SSVHOE]

I just searched a little and, apparently, there's not a switched circuit in these trucks. The accessories are turned on and off by a data bus. I DID find that there should be an empty 6-pin plug in the distribution panel to the left of the brake pedal. The far left side pins of this plug should be a switched 12V source. If you use those hardwire kits off ebay, it'll have an inline fuse. You can tap the radar detector and dash cam to the same terminal on this plug.

I personally haven't seen any of this. It's just what I read from a quick search.

Jake and Chris, there are two small brown wires in the rt hand electrical panel (on the end of the dash) that are switched I used it to hook up my bluetooth

 

[iamdub]

Jake and Chris, there are two small brown wires in the rt hand electrical panel (on the end of the dash) that are switched I used it to hook up my bluetooth

I read those were able to support only about 15mA safely. If the OP were interested in wiring up a relay, that would be a great place to tap. Personally, I'd tap it (giggity) with a relay.

 

[sspatriots]

Jake and Chris, there are two small brown wires in the rt hand electrical panel (on the end of the dash) that are switched I used it to hook up my bluetooth

I have a 2008 GMC Yukon and need an ignition power source for a dash cam guy hooked up wrong for me. I don't know what he did, but the thing turns off right after the car starts and gets going. I was wondering if you could help me out by giving me a better idea or send me a picture of these two brown wires you are referring too. I just go the Yukon and found a fuse panel at the end of the dash on the driver's side, but not sure where these brown wires are at the other end you are referring to. Are there two different fuse panels in these vehicles, i.e. one at each end of the dash.

 

[iamdub]

I have a 2008 GMC Yukon and need an ignition power source for a dash cam guy hooked up wrong for me. I don't know what he did, but the thing turns off right after the car starts and gets going. I was wondering if you could help me out by giving me a better idea or send me a picture of these two brown wires you are referring too. I just go the Yukon and found a fuse panel at the end of the dash on the driver's side, but not sure where these brown wires are at the other end you are referring to. Are there two different fuse panels in these vehicles, i.e. one at each end of the dash.

Have you confirmed that the problem is not the dash cam and that the current power source is indeed shutting off soon after you start to drive?

I found reliable, switched power on the passenger side of my '08. It might even be the wire(s) @2011SSVHOE mentioned back in 2017. Anyway, they're large wires so they obviously aren't a data bus nor low capacity.

I'm nowhere near my Tahoe at the moment or I'd go take a pic. Do you have a voltmeter? You could turn the key on and probe for voltage. When you find it, turn the key off and see if the voltage shuts off as well. Finding a ground is easy- set your meter to continuity, put one lead on a known ground (metal frame in the dash should work) and probe the wires (at the terminals) for continuity.