Cleaning under good, engine, salt

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Red Rider

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So I have some rust starting to develop under the hood, at the latch, and between metal under hood. I need to deal with this soon. I assume this is typical issue?

I also noticed that the under hood insulation seems soaked with salt residue, probably that new crap they put on the road in winter. How have you cleaned the insulation?

How do you typically clean engine bay from salt residue and in general?

Thanks.
 

hoss08

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The rust around the latch area is pretty typical on rust belt cars, every time that hood get slammed shut it takes off paint and eventually starts to rust. Your best bet on that is to knock off all the loose rust with a wire brush/wheel, sand paper or scuff pad. Then hit it with a good quality rust converter/encapsullator (I've had good luck with Eastwoods stuff in the past) or something like POR15. If you want you can then top coat it with some factory matched paint. It will eventually chip off and rust again just like it is now, you can minimize this by closing the hood with a light touch. You can also keep the latch and striker coated with some lithium grease, this will help fight off the rust in the future and keep the latch working smoothly at the same time. For the hood insulation soaked with salt spray I'd give it a good soaking with something like purple power or simple green and pressure wash it (hot water works best IMO) to blast all that crap out. Pretty much the same goes with the rest of the engine bay, a good soaking with a cleaner/degreaser and a good hot water pressure washing. Don't get carrier away with the pressure washer. Keep the nozzle back and stay away from electrical components and intake openings. Keeping the nozzle back a safe distance lets you blast the crud away using a high pressure mist. Having the engine warm NOT HOT will also make things a little easier as well. To be safe open up the air box and check for water before starting the truck when your done to avoid the very slim chance of hydrolock. After your all done with the cleaning fire it up and let it idle or drive it for a while to heat the engine bay up to dry it out. Keep in mind this nasty salt spray isn't limited to under the hood. The entire undercarriage of the truck is going to be coated. Its good to put the truck up on jack stands and follow the same steps on the entire undercarriage. Taking the wheels off will make it much easier to get into tight spots. Places like the back side of the rear bumper holds tons of crap. Take your time and blast all that crap off. I just did all this last weekend, took all day but you'd be amazed how much crap I blasted off the underside of my truck. (this truck has never been off road either) A nice thin coat of kerosene with a little bit of oil added sprayed on before winter will help fight against rust. Obviously don't spray this mix on the engine or exhaust. I use one of those pump up weed sprayer bottles for a sprayer. I personally went a step further and wire wheeled my chassis and components and painted them with POR15 before a sprayed the mix on it. This takes a TON of time but it gives me piece of mind, and my undercarriage looked like new after it's spring deep cleaning.
 
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Red Rider

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Thanks for lengthy reply. That is helpful. I already power washed the bottom of the truck but will probably do it again. Seems like I will need to take off insulation in order to reprint as the rust is starting all around. I will try to take a picture.

Has anyone used these brine/chloride neutralizers like Neutro-wash ?

---------- Post added at 03:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:45 PM ----------

Flitz is another magnesium chloride remover.
 
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Red Rider

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So while under the truck last weekend, I saw a lot of salt residue, even after i had power washed. Either I did not do a good job, or it is that new brine crap that does not wash off easy.

I picked up a gallon of Flitz MG 01210 Light Brown Magnesium Chloride remover and will give it a try. it is suppose to neutralize new style rode salts/brine solutions.
 

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