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Hey all. A few days ago, I just got done with doing my first transmission rebuild on my 4l60e for my `00 Tahoe 4x4. I have barely 100 miles on her so far and with no issues (knock wood).
I am just giving you a brief description of what I’ve done and hopefully answer some question for any other novice like myself who wish to give this a try. Photos included is not a complete teardown. Just snippets of after the removal it’s guts and the mostly reassembled unit.
I ordered the bulk of my rebuild kit from Transmission bench which also provided the rebuild video (that I paid separately. However, if you order the full kit the video is included).
I cannot stress how important that video was for me. It was the sole purpose for me to even consider doing this build on my own. The level of accuracy and this man’s ability to not miss a step made doing this rebuild so much easier. His instructions were very thorough and intuitive.
All together it took about 16 days for completion. What caused the delay? Getting parts. Everything was either backordered, delayed shipping or “we are not sure when this part will be back in stock” messages (Amazon, JEGS, Summit Racing).
Parts and pricing for this rebuild:
Master rebuild kit ($185.99) from Transmission bench which includes all clutches, steels, pan gaskets and all O-rings. The Ultra-kit has a ton more and includes the thumb drive for instructions.
Bushing kit $34.06 (Transmission Bench).
ACDelco transmission case (Rock Auto $348.00) Had no choice on this one. Once I got my tranny apart it was scored pretty bad inside so I opted to replace it.
Sonnax input shaft (300MM non-reluctor style) $360.00 from Summit Racing.
Sonnax Output shaft 4WD/AWD (Rock Auto) $361.00. Rock Auto actually had this the cheapest. Even out of Amazon, JEGS, Summit and others. As their prices were north of $500+ dollars.
Sonnax Smart shell $126.98 (Amazon)
Sonnax HD clutch hub (Summit Racing) $215.73
ACDelco Sun gear ($83.96)
ACDelco 5 pinion planets (maybe $200 dollars?) I got them used off of ebay almost 2 years ago when I was first thinking about doing a rebuild. I don’t remember how much I paid for them. Don’t worry I already checked them. No abnormal wiggles from the pinions.
Raybestos intermediate wide band: $18
Shift Rite Corvette servo: $63.99
Borg Warner Low/Reverse sprag $19.81
Borg Warner Forward clutch sprag $46.57
Misc: $100.00 (AKA my “Oopsies”). Seals and bushings I destroyed doing it for the first time. Input shaft seal rings I ripped. I was able to use the Teflon ring installer correctly but when I used the tool to re-shrink them back into place, I ripped two of the three Teflon rings on removal so I had to order more.
Bushing replacements was a few more “oopsies” getting them pressed in where one would get cocked in the bore of a gear going in. lessons learned.
Ok. I know some of you are already doing the math and figuring (heck for that amount of money he could get one professionally built!) And you would be right…however I don’t believe I could get it with the more exotic (Sonnax) parts included and the labor for the total cost.
Also, I seen enough nightmare stories from supposedly “built” Trannys from so called expert shops. So, I figured what the heck. Do it myself. You only live once…
And for you 4l80e guys. I understand. The 4l80 is a great transmission, but this is what I wanted. Win, lose or draw I’m happy with it.
God willing there will be more “winning” and less “losing.”
Results? So far very firm and more positive shifts (probable due to the wide band and corvette servo). Also, my clunking is gone? Every since I had my Tahoe (almost 5 years now) I always had a noticeable clunk when I placed my Tahoe into reverse (very rarely in drive) but primarily in reverse.
One thing I will mention (again for those like me who is doing for the first time) what was not touched on in the video was torque converter spacing between the converter and the flywheel. Spacing has to be between 1/8 minimum to 3/16th maximum for proper heat expansion for the torque converter and transmission pump.
Problems or issues during and after build?
The steels in the rebuild kit gave me a bit of an issue. A thickness issue, to be exact. During the video the instructor stated that the steels (for the forward clutch, if I remember) normally would be around .087 thickness. Checking my factory steels, they were in fact .087 thousandths. However, the replacement steels in the rebuild kit was actually .090. After installing both new clutch and steels I did not have the necessary endplay of .030-.065 required. I think I was around .020 or something (don’t quote me). Not feeling good about this I opted to reuse my original steels. All my original steels were fine. Nothing warped, bowed or scorched. Actually, they looked brand new So, I felt comfortable reusing them to get me back to spec.
I think the 3-4 was the same. The new ones were out of spec as well so I reused my factory steels.
Well only time will tell how good of a job I’ve done and I will keep everyone who may be interested posted. Even if it’s bad so anyone here will not make whatever mistake I made, if any.
I am just giving you a brief description of what I’ve done and hopefully answer some question for any other novice like myself who wish to give this a try. Photos included is not a complete teardown. Just snippets of after the removal it’s guts and the mostly reassembled unit.
I ordered the bulk of my rebuild kit from Transmission bench which also provided the rebuild video (that I paid separately. However, if you order the full kit the video is included).
I cannot stress how important that video was for me. It was the sole purpose for me to even consider doing this build on my own. The level of accuracy and this man’s ability to not miss a step made doing this rebuild so much easier. His instructions were very thorough and intuitive.
All together it took about 16 days for completion. What caused the delay? Getting parts. Everything was either backordered, delayed shipping or “we are not sure when this part will be back in stock” messages (Amazon, JEGS, Summit Racing).
Parts and pricing for this rebuild:
Master rebuild kit ($185.99) from Transmission bench which includes all clutches, steels, pan gaskets and all O-rings. The Ultra-kit has a ton more and includes the thumb drive for instructions.
Bushing kit $34.06 (Transmission Bench).
ACDelco transmission case (Rock Auto $348.00) Had no choice on this one. Once I got my tranny apart it was scored pretty bad inside so I opted to replace it.
Sonnax input shaft (300MM non-reluctor style) $360.00 from Summit Racing.
Sonnax Output shaft 4WD/AWD (Rock Auto) $361.00. Rock Auto actually had this the cheapest. Even out of Amazon, JEGS, Summit and others. As their prices were north of $500+ dollars.
Sonnax Smart shell $126.98 (Amazon)
Sonnax HD clutch hub (Summit Racing) $215.73
ACDelco Sun gear ($83.96)
ACDelco 5 pinion planets (maybe $200 dollars?) I got them used off of ebay almost 2 years ago when I was first thinking about doing a rebuild. I don’t remember how much I paid for them. Don’t worry I already checked them. No abnormal wiggles from the pinions.
Raybestos intermediate wide band: $18
Shift Rite Corvette servo: $63.99
Borg Warner Low/Reverse sprag $19.81
Borg Warner Forward clutch sprag $46.57
Misc: $100.00 (AKA my “Oopsies”). Seals and bushings I destroyed doing it for the first time. Input shaft seal rings I ripped. I was able to use the Teflon ring installer correctly but when I used the tool to re-shrink them back into place, I ripped two of the three Teflon rings on removal so I had to order more.
Bushing replacements was a few more “oopsies” getting them pressed in where one would get cocked in the bore of a gear going in. lessons learned.
Ok. I know some of you are already doing the math and figuring (heck for that amount of money he could get one professionally built!) And you would be right…however I don’t believe I could get it with the more exotic (Sonnax) parts included and the labor for the total cost.
Also, I seen enough nightmare stories from supposedly “built” Trannys from so called expert shops. So, I figured what the heck. Do it myself. You only live once…
And for you 4l80e guys. I understand. The 4l80 is a great transmission, but this is what I wanted. Win, lose or draw I’m happy with it.
God willing there will be more “winning” and less “losing.”
Results? So far very firm and more positive shifts (probable due to the wide band and corvette servo). Also, my clunking is gone? Every since I had my Tahoe (almost 5 years now) I always had a noticeable clunk when I placed my Tahoe into reverse (very rarely in drive) but primarily in reverse.
One thing I will mention (again for those like me who is doing for the first time) what was not touched on in the video was torque converter spacing between the converter and the flywheel. Spacing has to be between 1/8 minimum to 3/16th maximum for proper heat expansion for the torque converter and transmission pump.
Problems or issues during and after build?
The steels in the rebuild kit gave me a bit of an issue. A thickness issue, to be exact. During the video the instructor stated that the steels (for the forward clutch, if I remember) normally would be around .087 thickness. Checking my factory steels, they were in fact .087 thousandths. However, the replacement steels in the rebuild kit was actually .090. After installing both new clutch and steels I did not have the necessary endplay of .030-.065 required. I think I was around .020 or something (don’t quote me). Not feeling good about this I opted to reuse my original steels. All my original steels were fine. Nothing warped, bowed or scorched. Actually, they looked brand new So, I felt comfortable reusing them to get me back to spec.
I think the 3-4 was the same. The new ones were out of spec as well so I reused my factory steels.
Well only time will tell how good of a job I’ve done and I will keep everyone who may be interested posted. Even if it’s bad so anyone here will not make whatever mistake I made, if any.
