Copper&Black's Complete Custom Build Thread

[jdpber]

Copper that is hours of tedious sanding on that console. i have been there done that. looks amazing so far...

 

[Copper&Black]

Thanks Guys!

That console is sick can't wait to see the final product.. Quick question, a little off subject, but how hard was it to cut the HD hood to fit the yukon lights?? Did you cut then roll the end? Just considering the mod and trying to see if it is something i am capable of.. truck is nasty man. Thanks.

Yeah I cut and then folded it inward, in my opinion it looks best, like it came from the factory that way. I've seen others just cut off the section and weld both pieces together/ bondo etc. But in reality you are probably making more work for yourself then if you just take you time and fold it back the right way.



Spent almost all the day fixing the rear dif on our "company vechicle" Bourget trike today. Apparently the Germans who made the rear axle don't know how to measure correctly for an axle shaft and made one a little short. Which worked fine for awhile until this past weekend she decided to give way. So after a day of figuring out what the problem was, rebuilding the dif with new bearing, a little bit of a shave and a tuck there, the axle should be ready for paint tomorrow.

I did organize a bit and clean out some of the oil passages in the block with some engine brushes, but I can't really take good pictures of that. So here to change it up is some pictures of today’s work....haha

 

[Copper&Black]

Put in a few hours today cleaning the Crank and assembling Mahle pistons & **** rods. I took it one step further and perfectly weight matched everything. All piston/rod sets weigh in at 1191 grams exactly +/- .5g error, so she should be a smooth runner

Pics…

 

[jomulk56]

How did you make them all weigh the same? Did you find the lightest one and shave weight off all the others to match? I've never done it before.

 

[Copper&Black]

How did you make them all weigh the same? Did you find the lightest one and shave weight off all the others to match? I've never done it before.

The rods can be shaved on the sides by the crank journal/bolts and on the top by the piston pin journal. The piston can be shaved on the bottom inside along the supporting structure of the piston, but not digging into the piston itself (getting closer to the face of the piston). When I had the block machined .020” over and cleaned, I also had the shop go through the pistons and rods. They had the weight down to 2-3 grams difference between rods, and a 1-2 gram difference between pistons. So just to satisfy my OCD I tightened that difference up a little and paired them appropriately. They would have worked perfectly well, but I want this engine to purr, so I might as well take the time now and make it perfect.

 

[solored]

Nice man, very nice! Wish I had the time place and cash to do that to mine right now. Really nice to see! Can not wait for the final product!!

 

[Copper&Black]

Thanks Solored

Alright I’ve been hung up a little with work and fixing the rear axle on the trike. But today I had a couple hours to work on the center console and some seat pieces. I spent about an hour or two polishing up the buttons and adjusting the fit in the piece that holds them. The buttons aren’t locked in yet, I have to wait to build the cup holder portion back up with its springs and covers then epoxy it back to this piece. But this week I should bust the black leather box open for the side for the console.

What has been holding me up.

Raw clear that still needs to be polished...






Today…

 

[ecordell]

lookin good man, those buttons are NICE

 

[07Burb]

Looks good! I'd have a hard time remembering what each one does

 

[Copper&Black]

Thanks E. At $12 a piece they better be. They are industrial grade stainless buttons rated at 8 million cycles, so I won't be replacing them anytime soon.

07: From left to right
Drivers door
Pass door
Rear driver
Rear pass
Hatch
Hatch Glass

Sorry no labels allowed...

And each door will have its own button.