Disable Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

[ParacordPaul]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for this one, fixed something that just bugged me about the truck.

Paul.

 

[totalpackage]

I pulled the fuse on my 1996 Tahoe 12 years ago. I have no fog lights and have never noticed any other issue.

 

[noJeepshere]

I pulled the fuse on my 1996 Tahoe 12 years ago. I have no fog lights and have never noticed any other issue.

Since this was dredged up from the dead, I'll weigh in again: pulled my fuse 4 years ago and only the drl's turned off, no other issues, I do have the green indicator on the dash but I like to have it to remind me my headlights are off while I'm driving. When I stop to fuel up at night or run into the quick shop I turn just the headlights off and leave the markers on, and the reminder is nice when I drive away.

cent frum a smaert fone

 

[Jesse G]

This could very well apply to any GM vehicle using the same DRL Module 42767.

I have messed with this problem for a while. Everyone has there method, and I found most of them are stop gap measures that really cause other issues.

If you pull the DRL relay then other intrument features will drop.

If you pull the DRL Module again other instrument features will stop, i.e no PBrake light.

After studying the schematic from the factory shop manual I found the best/cheapest solution is the cut the relay lane on the DRL module circuit board. The nice think about this is that with a little solder you can reenable the DRL feature.

Below is a pic of the mod. The right hand tab of the module were it plugs in, the second from the right most connector is what allows the modele to trip the DRL Relay turning on the head lights. Simple score the pathway just above the silver connector part. You will make to cuts about 2mm apart. Then you want to scrap away the copper material between those two cuts. This breaks the electrical connection just for contacting the DRL relay.

This is simple fix. When you look at your module you will see the pathway. If for somereason you want to reenable the DRL feature, just lightly scrap the connector path so that some copper is exposed and reconnect the two with a little solder. It will not take much and don't go more then 2mm onto the silver part of the connector or it will interfere with the reinsertion of the module.

Hey buddy, so I have a 97 Yukon slt 4rd 4wd 5.7 and I am so glad I saw this post so thanks. Any, you said that you can't just pull the chip because it will effect other instrument features like the brake light.

Can you or anyone else please go into more deal on that? I ask because I pulled the chip to do what you did but checked everything I could:

headlights- high and low beam, brakes lights, turn signals, reverse light, hazzards, and parking lights. They all worked as usual. I'm only asking because I need to make sure there is nothing I am missing or am I just lucky or what.

 

[1BADI5]

Well I'm pulling my fuse tonight.... I love freebie mods.

Some DDMs are in my future like all of my other trucks

 

[noJeepshere]

Hey buddy, so I have a 97 Yukon slt 4rd 4wd 5.7 and I am so glad I saw this post so thanks. Any, you said that you can't just pull the chip because it will effect other instrument features like the brake light.

Can you or anyone else please go into more deal on that? I ask because I pulled the chip to do what you did but checked everything I could:

headlights- high and low beam, brakes lights, turn signals, reverse light, hazzards, and parking lights. They all worked as usual. I'm only asking because I need to make sure there is nothing I am missing or am I just lucky or what.

Your seatbelt tensioner won't work with the drl module removed.

sent from a slablet

 

[1BADI5]

My seat belt tensioner work fine with the fuse removed

 

[noJeepshere]

My seat belt tensioner work fine with the fuse removed

Drive at 25-30 mph or so then stand on the brakes and allow yourself to fall forward, if you hit the steering wheel with your face the tensioner doesn't work. The tensioner of which I speak is the one that tightens the belt and doesn't allow it to reel out in an emergency situation, and is electronically actuated, not the coil spring that keeps it neatly across your chest.

 

[1BADI5]

I think your seat belt tensioner must be bad then.

I removed my seat belts last week to detail the interior of my 99 Yukon and there is not a single electrical connection..........so I do not see how the DRL system can effect the seat belt tensioners

 

[nharkey85]

Drive at 25-30 mph or so then stand on the brakes and allow yourself to fall forward, if you hit the steering wheel with your face the tensioner doesn't work. The tensioner of which I speak is the one that tightens the belt and doesn't allow it to reel out in an emergency situation, and is electronically actuated, not the coil spring that keeps it neatly across your chest.

Don't even have to do that. Just a firm swift tug on the belt should engage the lock