DIY Mid & Long LCA's / UCA's.....and everything else you'll need to have and know

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Scrappycrow

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AWESOME link! ...and nice work on a sweet ride! My dad used to lament about an AMX (Animal) that had his, and everybody's, number in WV-KY-OH Tri-State area's number on the local bracket racing scene...

What you did was genius.. Looks to me like that +1.1 increase in caster put you right in the sweet spot for those CA's. You could've addressed that a couple different ways, curious why you went with moving the ball joint? Did you account for KingPin angle, scrub radius, Ackerman, Jacking, etc.. or just kinda wing it based on the known positive caster = better straight line tracking? Did you know how much caster/camber moving the ball joint xx.xx" would create beforehand or just wing it?
Thanks for the compliments! To address some in your response:

1) "You could've addressed that a couple different ways, curious why you went with moving the ball joint?"

You don't mention what "different ways" you think I could have used, but: A) I was not going to fabricate a new upper arm, B) Taller spindles are not available for small-body AMCs, and C) The only available aftermarket suspension is expensive and involves cascading effects. The taller ball joint acts as a taller spindle for camber curve, moving the mount aft was relatively easy for caster, and it was relatively inexpensive.

2) "Did you account for KingPin angle, scrub radius, Ackerman, Jacking, etc.. or just kinda wing it based on the known positive caster = better straight line tracking? Did you know how much caster/camber moving the ball joint xx.xx" would create beforehand or just wing it?"

There was no need to worry about kingpin effects, the change was minor. Scrub radius isn't changed. Ackerman isn't changed. Jacking increased a minor amount. Yes, it was fairly easy to calculate using basic trigonometry, and I was within 20% of my estimate.
 
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5StarCustmSolutns

5StarCustmSolutns

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;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;Thanks for the compliments! To address some in your response:

1) "You could've addressed that a couple different ways, curious why you went with moving the ball joint?"

You don't mention what "different ways" you think I could have used, but: A) I was not going to fabricate a new upper arm, B) Taller spindles are not available for small-body AMCs, and C) The only available aftermarket suspension is expensive and involves cascading effects. The taller ball joint acts as a taller spindle for camber curve, moving the mount aft was relatively easy for caster, and it was relatively inexpensive.

2) "Did you account for KingPin angle, scrub radius, Ackerman, Jacking, etc.. or just kinda wing it based on the known positive caster = better straight line tracking? Did you know how much caster/camber moving the ball joint xx.xx" would create beforehand or just wing it?"

There was no need to worry about kingpin effects, the change was minor. Scrub radius isn't changed. Ackerman isn't changed. Jacking increased a minor amount. Yes, it was fairly easy to calculate using basic trigonometry, and I was within 20% of my estimate.

You were on my mind multiple times yesterday lol.. As we slowly hacked away at these two giant half dead trees in 33 degree weather, I kept thinking to myself "why did you not answer the man's question about which ball joint you went with"... SMH...


Also shouldve worded the others more thoroughly. I was starting to feel the pressure/anxiety of the clock, and wanting to be able to still make the post about the tire fitment/approach angle before I went to work.....and why? IDK lol..

Cool.. I was thinking the ball joint move would have a big impact on the Ackerman?


I think I was also trying to confirm to myself that I dont HAVE to make all this math come out perfectly before building these control arms... Mainly because I don't know what perfect is?

I need to stop over complicating it and just make the lowers x.xx" wider and 1.5" forward, then make the uppers the same additional width but only (somewhere between) 0.75" and 1.25" forward, and that will add a couple degrees of caster and increase Ackerman which is exactly what I want to accomplish...



To answer your question 110% honestly:
I was pretty locked into the Kryptonite... Wanted them because, somehow, I was under the impression they were extra heavy duty tough American made parts! Because I have such a heavy vehicle, because I drive so hard, and because of the type of terrain my truck is going to see more frequently now. I don't remember where it came from?? I just remember thinking their stuff was was tougher....
Was it because of the name? because it cost more? because of the warranty? or was it just clever marketing??

Then I saw a post somewhere that said something very similar to this: Kryptonite Hub / Bearings are just Timken's with a Kryp laser etched logo, a MUCH larger pricetag and a lifetime warranty that still requires you to send in the old one to get the new one.....and my first thought was: Don't be a hater (because that's how we're conditioned to respond)

BUT..... having recently, and completely unintentionally stumbled across the fact that there are companies out there that make ALL of the _____ (auto part) for 2-3-5 or 12 different automotive manufacturers; I had to at least look at them split screen....side-by-side....see what I thought?
Honestly, I think that post is 100% correct. They look identical...

It was a little stunning to learn that something I always thought of as just organic corporate competition, the kind that makes the end product better for the consumer....is a total farce! Things I thought were part of "The American Way" were actually a crock of horse manure..

Things like:
Company X makes ALL the truck axles for the (not so) big 3

Company Y made ALL of the springs for the (suddenly not so innovative) big 3......along with several other well known spring "manufacturers"

for years and years now this has been happening.


Disheartening, to say the least, to learn that ALL those commercials where Truck Brand Z brags throughout the whole commercial about how they can tow circles around Truck A Brand.....and blah blah blahhhh....when ALL ALONG NONE OF THE THEM WERE MAKING THEIR OWN AXLES ANYWAYS?? instead, ALL OF THEM were buying "their" axles from the same axle maker

It's not just axles and springs...

Look at tires.. There are two other Models that have the exact same base tread as Kenda's BRAND NEW design on the M/T2's that I just got- Mastertracker Badlands M/T & Cooper Discoverer STT Pro.....annnd one more that has Kendas's allegedly patented side wall design- Maxxis _____(whatever their called)
And there are NUMEROUS other tire models that share treadpatterns. Are they all from the same factory? Why is one 5x more $$

Moreover, this practice is not just in autoparts!! It's in every single product category there is!

I've said this for a decade + now.... "The factory makes NorthFace from start of morning shift til lunch, then changes software, changes thread colors and makes Freelander from lunch to close... Same factory, same day, quintuple the retail price....
We're just all supposed to be too busy, too caught up in meaninglessness to notice


Oh yeah, and I went with the Mevotech TTX (tough terrain xtreme) and they work like a ball joint should. They allegedly have sintered steel ball that is one piece with the threaded shaft. I went with all their products. Inner and outter tie rod ends, lower balls, hub/bearings, and may use their upper bearings? OR Icon Delta Points? or maybe even Uniballs??20250126_161458.jpg
 
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SpareParts

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I installed TTX lower and upper control arms and inner outer tie rods on a 1998 suburban. Mivotec seems like good quality HD stuff to me.
Like everything else though. Some people like em, some don't.
 

Scrappycrow

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You were on my mind multiple times yesterday lol.. As we slowly hacked away at these two giant half dead trees in 33 degree weather, I kept thinking to myself "why did you not answer the man's question about which ball joint you went with"... SMH...

Cool.. I was thinking the ball joint move would have a big impact on the Ackerman?

Oh yeah, and I went with the Mevotech TTX (tough terrain xtreme) and they work like a ball joint should. They allegedly have sintered steel ball that is one piece with the threaded shaft. I went with all their products. Inner and outter tie rod ends, lower balls, hub/bearings, and may use their upper bearings? OR Icon Delta Points? or maybe even Uniballs??
Thanks for the info on the components!

There's no reason the Ackerman would change with what I did. The steering arms still have the same positional and angular relationship with all other components, as they aren't moving in any direction or by any angle. With what you are doing, however, the Ackerman will indeed change, as the steering arms are moving forward and the steering arms are moving forward along with them, so this is changing the angle between the arms & tie rods and tie rods & rack.
 
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5StarCustmSolutns

5StarCustmSolutns

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Thanks for the info on the components!

There's no reason the Ackerman would change with what I did. The steering arms still have the same positional and angular relationship with all other components, as they aren't moving in any direction or by any angle. With what you are doing, however, the Ackerman will indeed change, as the steering arms are moving forward and the steering arms are moving forward along with them, so this is changing the angle between the arms & tie rods and tie rods & rack.

So I finally checked out Howe Racing... Great looking stuff and a bunch of cool, relatively reasonably priced products.. Definitely in the mix for my upper BJ's.. Visually they look like they provide some extreme angles of operation.. Look a little like the Delta Joints?
I'm definitely in the camp of aftermarket part believer! That philosophy has been burned into me by a half lifetime of trying to get machines and products to do things they weren't necessarily designed to (regularly) do..
The Mevotech TTX Lower BJ's, though not exactly a major deviation from OE, do have some subtle differences... One of the reasons I went with them was the availability of info on their build/components. That stuff is important to me....I guess it gives me peace of mind....until I break it and cuss it and myself for believing all that technical data BS and buying them to start with :rolleyes:! Didn't hurt that they press right in.. One less thing to think about....though im not crazy about the fact that the LCA's don't have a machined groove and a retainer clip to ensure my overweight heavy Chevy doesn't find a way to press them back out...
Sooner than later I'll get to the CV axles (another over-researched part decision); that, in the end, I went the route I went because of the flexibility to switch back and forth between Mid and Long travel, and (again) the availability of in-depth info on their construction and attributes.....and cost(cant forget that)

I was thinking the Ackerman would be affected due to the slight tilt or rotation of your spindle caused by the lateral change in spindle - Upper ball joint attachment position... And it may have changed the actual math? But w/only 5/16" BJ movement, if it did change? it was miniscule

Either way Im glad you shared that link! It's already caused me to think about things from a different angle....that type of motivation truly is priceless!

If anyone has any ideas on the easiest way to cut a retaining clip groove into the vertical wall of the hole n the plate my lower ball joint goes into? I would love to hear...
 
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5StarCustmSolutns

5StarCustmSolutns

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I am totally geeked out on this thread. So much good info being put into the mainstream discussion and advancing the possibilities of these trucks even further.

Me too PtP! I'm kind of learning on the fly here re: the fine tuning of each aspect of the suspension.

A couple things I feel confident enough saying at this point:
- Everything is a trade off when it comes to custom designing an off-road suspension... Much more so than on-road, but more forgiving (if that makes any sense?). The goal is to find the balance point, the sweet spot or sweeet range that allows the car or truck to be the best it can be at the task you're setting it up to be good at.....and if that task is "Best all around....on a modest budget" you'll need to polish up your part sourcing skills. It's much less complicated to set up for only rock crawling or only higher speeds over rough terrain than it is for both....setting up for both shrinks the sweet range you're tryin to get in....add climbing, descending, traversing, and turning on steep slopes and the window gets even smaller...BUT
- Dont be intimidated...(and always crawl before you go full send!) All the tools needed to learn this stuff are out there. And it beats the heck out of watching TV to unwind. Once I feel like Im in that sweet spot/sweet range I'll post a list of links to useful sites, calculators, etc... Someone could probably ask an A.I. site to design an optimal suspension, and it may very well be able to do it? Almost took that route back in the fall. But after some careful thought, I decided I would rather comprehend the how's and why's of anti-squat, roll center, etc.. vs being given the answers and having no idea what they mean, how one affects another and most importantly how to fine tune the setup? (and good luck tryin convince a couple of my teachers / professors that I just typed that!)
 
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5StarCustmSolutns

5StarCustmSolutns

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A few more parts ordered on Fri 2/21:

Energy Suspension Rack and Pinion bushings - Summit price match $95.xx
Pro-Forged inner tie rods - Summit - $65.xx ea
NTK O2 sensors Up and Downstream - Summit - $170ish for all 4
TEAMWILL silicon Rack and Pinion Bellows, White - jeffazon - $16
TRQ Front Diff Mount Bushings, 4pcs - jeffazon - $45
Fine tip paint marker set for marking bolts once torqued - jeffazon - $7
7-141 Body Mount Bushings, 8pc, x 2 - jeffazon - $44 ea.

Summit could only get the Energy Suspension Body Mount set and it was $230 or so. To best of my knowledge there's 12 mounts under the 2011 Avalanche, Suburban, Yukon XL, Escalade ESV & EXT but I couldn't make myself go out there and roll around on the frozen ground Fri night and confirm. The kit I ordered says it's for a Silverado and says it's an 8 piece kit. From what I could gather the bushings are the same for all GMT-900's and are the same at all locations under the trucks except for the front two under the radiator? I found a video of a guy changing them out on an '05 Tahoe and he was able to use these same bushings at all locations incl under the radiator. I'll report back on this asap lol..

The one thing I could not find a definitive answer about was the bolts. It was late and my eyes were crossing from all the superseded cross-referenced part numbers. (I now know this pain @Scrappycrow https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/minor-rant-superseded-part-numbers.145982/ ). Rock Auto doesn't list them, neither does Summit. They're all over jeffazon for 99-2005 Silverado in an 8 pc set, but I gave up before I could find 07-13...

Best I could tell the two bolts under the Radiator are 14mm and the others 12mm? Also, quit thinking the bolts are 14-2 x 136 and 12-2 x 136?

If anyone (@swathdiver, @Geotrash, @915_Tahoe) has anything that may help out, it would be greatly appreciated..

And it would not surprise me to learn that there are 12 "mount" locations, 8 of them called body Mounts, 2 Rad core supports and 2 something else lol... Im actually leaning towards this theory now... At least it helps me feel better for not figuring it out Fri night...

Gotta go finish the 2nd of the huge trees....snowstorm caused 5 day delay...smh
 

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