Do the Tahoe Limited gauges light up blue?
- Thread starter mikeykey
- Start date
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Twenty4s
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Pics right meow.....
You beat me to it Haks!!!!! I gave up my oem gauge and painted needles so i went to eba and bought a esky gauge.
Did you take the needles off on your new gauge to sand the blue down or where you able to slide it out from behind them? Looking good though!!
I'm thinking about putting blue LEDs behind the already blue gauge. Anyone ever done this and know what the color looks like?
Did you take the needles off on your new gauge to sand the blue down or where you able to slide it out from behind them? Looking good though!!
I'm thinking about putting blue LEDs behind the already blue gauge. Anyone ever done this and know what the color looks like?
LMAO
You have to pull the needles off, it was okay though because I got them back in pretty much the same spot.
Actually that is what you are suppose to do. It will give you a true teal/blue color.
Anyway, I will do the write up today, on my phone and just woke up LoL
You have to pull the needles off, it was okay though because I got them back in pretty much the same spot.
Actually that is what you are suppose to do. It will give you a true teal/blue color.
Anyway, I will do the write up today, on my phone and just woke up LoL
So I was doing the write up Saturday..then there was a power outage...blah blah....labor day weekend didn't feel like doing it.
Anyway this for pretty much for anybody who has a teal colored gauge and wants white gauges. On top of that, if you want to change to red gauges all you would have to do is install red LEDs...or green gauges then you would go with green LEDs...and you know where I am going with this. So I figure you guys know how to take the cluster out already so we won't go into much info on that. Sorry for the ****** pictures, I will try and get some better ones, swore I took more too.
So the tools you will need...or at least what I used:
A clean kitchen fork
Gorilla super glue
800 grit sand paper
razor blade from a box opener
heat gun....or a working gas stove
1. Take pictures of your gauges while the the truck is idling and has reached operating temperature.
2. Remove the cluster assembly, remove the clear lens from the cluster. You will now be able to get to the needles.
3. Slide the fork under one of the needles as if you were about to eat it, using leverage pull the needle off. Remove all the needles.
4. Now you will get to the "gauge overlay", this is the part we will be sanding....and in order to do so we need to remove it from the "gauge cluster". It is good on there pretty good using glue, this is where your heat gun or stove come into play. I used my stove because I couldn't find my heat gun (Found it later that day). I passed the cluster over the stove set on high for about 10 seconds to melt the glue a bit. Then I went ahead and carefully ripped the "gauge overlay off"
5. Now take the "gauge overlay" and your sandpaper and get sanding. You will notice that the overlay will have glue residue all over it, no worries, will come right off with some light sanding. Anyway, it doesn't take much sanding to get it from the teal color to it being clear. So just sand away, hold the overlay up to the light and see if you missed any spots. Some spots will sand white..then teal...then clear so if that comes up do not freak out. Be careful sanding behind the gauge limits though, all those orange lines. If you sand these spots, they will go from that bright orange to almost a light orange....I kinda liked the light orange so I went and sanded those too.
6. You will notice your "gauge cluster" is also covered in glue. This is where i used the box opener blade and scraped away, then used a towel with some 409 to wipe anything that was left. You will want a clean surface so we can glue the "gauge overlay" and have it stick.
7. Use the gorilla super glue and glue the "gauge overlay" back onto the "gauge cluster". Need I explain?
8. Now put the cluster back in the truck without needles and without the clear lens. Start up the truck and let it idle until it gets up to operating temperature. I am sure all you guys are familiar with your trucks so you should know where your RPMs, oil pressure, voltage, fuel and engine temperature sit at idle....speed is a given lol. If not then this where you would use the pictures we took in step one as reference. So just go ahead and install the needles while the engine is still running according to where everything should be. I found it easy to put the needles on kinda half way to see where it would sit, if it was correct I pushed the needle down, if not I would take it off and adjusted it.
9. Once you got your needles where they should be. Turn your truck off and take the cluster out. Install the clear lens on it and install the whole whole cluster back in and you are ready to go!
So just hit me up if you have any questions.
Anyway this for pretty much for anybody who has a teal colored gauge and wants white gauges. On top of that, if you want to change to red gauges all you would have to do is install red LEDs...or green gauges then you would go with green LEDs...and you know where I am going with this. So I figure you guys know how to take the cluster out already so we won't go into much info on that. Sorry for the ****** pictures, I will try and get some better ones, swore I took more too.
So the tools you will need...or at least what I used:
A clean kitchen fork
Gorilla super glue
800 grit sand paper
razor blade from a box opener
heat gun....or a working gas stove
1. Take pictures of your gauges while the the truck is idling and has reached operating temperature.
2. Remove the cluster assembly, remove the clear lens from the cluster. You will now be able to get to the needles.
3. Slide the fork under one of the needles as if you were about to eat it, using leverage pull the needle off. Remove all the needles.
4. Now you will get to the "gauge overlay", this is the part we will be sanding....and in order to do so we need to remove it from the "gauge cluster". It is good on there pretty good using glue, this is where your heat gun or stove come into play. I used my stove because I couldn't find my heat gun (Found it later that day). I passed the cluster over the stove set on high for about 10 seconds to melt the glue a bit. Then I went ahead and carefully ripped the "gauge overlay off"
5. Now take the "gauge overlay" and your sandpaper and get sanding. You will notice that the overlay will have glue residue all over it, no worries, will come right off with some light sanding. Anyway, it doesn't take much sanding to get it from the teal color to it being clear. So just sand away, hold the overlay up to the light and see if you missed any spots. Some spots will sand white..then teal...then clear so if that comes up do not freak out. Be careful sanding behind the gauge limits though, all those orange lines. If you sand these spots, they will go from that bright orange to almost a light orange....I kinda liked the light orange so I went and sanded those too.
6. You will notice your "gauge cluster" is also covered in glue. This is where i used the box opener blade and scraped away, then used a towel with some 409 to wipe anything that was left. You will want a clean surface so we can glue the "gauge overlay" and have it stick.
7. Use the gorilla super glue and glue the "gauge overlay" back onto the "gauge cluster". Need I explain?
8. Now put the cluster back in the truck without needles and without the clear lens. Start up the truck and let it idle until it gets up to operating temperature. I am sure all you guys are familiar with your trucks so you should know where your RPMs, oil pressure, voltage, fuel and engine temperature sit at idle....speed is a given lol. If not then this where you would use the pictures we took in step one as reference. So just go ahead and install the needles while the engine is still running according to where everything should be. I found it easy to put the needles on kinda half way to see where it would sit, if it was correct I pushed the needle down, if not I would take it off and adjusted it.
9. Once you got your needles where they should be. Turn your truck off and take the cluster out. Install the clear lens on it and install the whole whole cluster back in and you are ready to go!
So just hit me up if you have any questions.
Last edited:
AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
no pics!?
tahoe.mkIII
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good evening gentlemen...old thread, but i figured id give it a try...i have a 99 tahoe with the 100mph speedo. i recently acquired a gauge cluster from a limited/denali/escalade with the 120mph speedo(for $10), and was wondering if i just swap the entire cluster will the speedometer be accurate?thank you in advance...
also, my rpm gauge has no rev limit lines.all the numbers and lines are white/clear all the way to 6k.have you ever seen any like that before?i guess that means i can run her up to 6000rpm with no problems then...
also, my rpm gauge has no rev limit lines.all the numbers and lines are white/clear all the way to 6k.have you ever seen any like that before?i guess that means i can run her up to 6000rpm with no problems then...
Last edited:
retorq
Full Access Member
The speedo should be good, the 130s had some mods that were needed in some years from what I've read. My white face gauges don't have rpm markings either ...
AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
i wouldnt suggest trying to rev to 6000 rpms! lol
