Dual Batteries installation.

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Tonyrodz

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I have it installed right behind the front passenger seat. I removed the mid-seat.

Here are some tips for a fridge...
In the summer for cold water I run it 24/7 at 45 degrees.
If I do a shopping trip in town (80 miles away) I will turn it down to 32 degrees.
I pre-cool my water bottles in a spare fridge in the garage.
I also put about 10 bottles in there to keep it cooler and reduce how often the refrigerator motor runs.

View attachment 259302
Nice. Looks to be a decent size too. It plus into the 12 volt pwr point? Or did you need an inverter to run it?
 
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Tozan

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Nice. Looks to be a decent size too. It plus into the 12 volt pwr point? Or did you need an inverter to run it?

It is 12 volt plugged into the back of the center console. It holds 37 quarts. The platform is at the same height so the bed lays on top of both of them.

On weekend trips we still use an ice chest to hold a lot of cold drinks and keep the food in the fridge. We put the ice chest right in the center behind the console so it is easy to reach.
 

gmartin1215

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Nice job! Totally agree on the benefits of two batteries. Plus, the space for the battery is already there. After reading a million ways of doing the install, I went with a Keyline isolator and have zero problems for over a year. The kit came with everything I needed for wiring. Just added batteries and a tray with strap.

this is the kit...

View attachment 259142
@Raptor Tahoe
Are you still using this isolater? Any regrets?
Also, when you installed it, did you still have to run any of your negative cables through that sensor near the starter battery that is wrapped around the normal negative cables to make sure the second battery does get charged, or does the isolated negate that concern?
 

gmartin1215

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I waited till my old battery started to fail so I could install a second battery.. I have heard pros and cons about using electronic dual battery kits that are very expensive and I have seen a lot of vehicles with dual batteries hooked up in a parallel configuration with out those kits. There are a lot of factory vehicles that do not use the kit or any isolation kits. I have done this with several chevys in the past that went well over 250,000 miles with no problems and I installed this one 3 weeks ago.

Set up is very easy on the front right side looking under the hood there is a battery tray the factory installed but never used.

Parts list
  • Battery hold down and bolt. You can get them from an auto parts store or the dealership it is the same part used for your existing battery
  • Two new batteries. It is best if you replace both batteries at the same time.
  • 36 inch negative battery cable.
  • 65 foot positive cable.
  1. Installation is pretty easy replace the old battery but do not attach the cables yet.
  2. Install the second battery in the front battery tray and bolt it in.
  3. If you have any large draw items like a winch or big stereo system you should attach it to the second battery.
  4. Attach the 6 foot positive cable to the original battery block be sure to attach it to the battery side of the fuse block.
  5. Attach the other end of the cable to your second battery you can run it along the fire wall or across the top of the motor.
  6. Attach the negative cable to an empty bolt hole on the cylinder head
  7. Both positive cables should be connected now if you didn't already so, it is time to attach both negative battery cables to their respective battery posts.
  8. Re check all connections to be sure they are tight and you are ready to go.
In the future I may install a cut out switch that will cut the power from the main battery when I run my winch or decide to run a stereo and lights when camping so the other battery will be unaffected.
View attachment 193818
@Tozan
did you still have to run any your negative cables from the second batt through that sensor near the starter battery that is wrapped around the normal negative cables to make sure the second battery does get charged? I read somewhere that the cables need to go through that sensor ring or their will be charging issues.
 

Raptor Tahoe

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@Raptor Tahoe
Are you still using this isolater? Any regrets?
Also, when you installed it, did you still have to run any of your negative cables through that sensor near the starter battery that is wrapped around the normal negative cables to make sure the second battery does get charged, or does the isolated negate that concern?
I am using this isolated and have had good success. Not happy with my accessories draining battery when parked at night… but I think that is due to a bad ignition switch not turning off dash power. Take a look at this one and see if it meets your needs. Relatively simple install. Good luck with your project! I also plan on installing a huge alternator as soon as I can find the best model.
1727200460861.jpeg
 

gmartin1215

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I am using this isolated and have had good success. Not happy with my accessories draining battery when parked at night… but I think that is due to a bad ignition switch not turning off dash power. Take a look at this one and see if it meets your needs. Relatively simple install. Good luck with your project! I also plan on installing a huge alternator as soon as I can find the best model.
View attachment 438989
Thanks!
So there was no need to run any new wires for the dual setup through that ring sensor near the starter battery?

I am also interested in a bigger alternator. If you find one, please share the info!
 

Raptor Tahoe

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Let’s both scour the forum for the best alternator. I tend to want excessive overkill in parts for my 07 Tahoe!

Always open for suggestions from my friends!
 

mikez71

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Pretty sure the factory only runs the one negative cable through the RVC sensor.

Last time I disconnected my batteries (factory parallel connection), it seemed like the aux was slightly lower on voltage. (.05V difference iirc..)
Will have to disconnect and test again, but maybe that variation is normal?
 

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