Engine dies - but why?

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Jobi-Wan Kenobi

Jobi-Wan Kenobi

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Well I've put somewhere around 130 miles on since Saturday between trips into town and driving back and forth to work. No issues with not starting after sitting in a parking lot a little while after the engine got warm. Tonight though the engine did cut out 2 times within a matter of seconds of each other while I was driving. The only code registered was for the knock sensors. I tried checking freeze frame data but apparently the PCM is only capable of one snapshot at a time because it still has the one for the EVAP code. Suppose should get the knock sensors changed but I do have a new crankshaft sensor here too now.
 
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Jobi-Wan Kenobi

Jobi-Wan Kenobi

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Well I guess things weren't actually fixed. Was out and about last night and the engine died on my drive home 2 times putting me on the side of the road. It did register a P0335 code for the crankshaft sensor though so I got that swapped out this afternoon.

I did learn something else though today. In all the years owning GM stuff I never knew the ends of the battery cables actually came off. I guess I never paid attention to them enough to notice. But I pulled the end off the ground after noticing a little chalky dust come out the bottom. The end is corroded by the crimp and looks like there must be some corrosion under the insulation since it's a bit swollen. So gonna order some new cables. Found the same on the positive side but not as bad.
 

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iamdub

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Well I guess things weren't actually fixed. Was out and about last night and the engine died on my drive home 2 times putting me on the side of the road. It did register a P0335 code for the crankshaft sensor though so I got that swapped out this afternoon.

I did learn something else though today. In all the years owning GM stuff I never knew the ends of the battery cables actually came off. I guess I never paid attention to them enough to notice. But I pulled the end off the ground after noticing a little chalky dust come out the bottom. The end is corroded by the crimp and looks like there must be some corrosion under the insulation since it's a bit swollen. So gonna order some new cables. Found the same on the positive side but not as bad.


Good reason to upgrade- Big 3!
 

iamdub

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@iamdub so do the big 3 upgrade rather than just swapping out the cables?

Pretty much all factory wiring is just barely adequate, if even adequate. For the cost of replacing the stock parts, I'd take it as an opportunity to not only replace but upgrade. Everything electrical in your car will thank you.

If your mechanical ability allows, I'd recommend grabbing some welding lead from a local supply store (unless you find a deal online including the shipping) and some marine grade lugs and adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing off Amazon. Crimp and/or solder the lugs. The welding lead is good quality, legitimate OFC (oxygen-free copper) with a high strand count so it's very flexible. Most of the pretty wire kits, like those for car audio systems are CCA (copper-clad aluminum) and you're paying more for the wild jacket colors. You need a larger gauge of CCA to match the capacity of OFC. If your electrical system is otherwise stock (no high power accessories, no high output alternator, etc.), then I'd say you'd be fine going with, at least, 2 gauge.

Or, if you wanna get everything in one shot, this seems legit. Having a GMT800 with the battery so close to the alternator lets you get by with about half as much wire as those with a GMT900. Clean up and repurpose the stock main ground cable as a body (sheet metal)-to-frame (or engine) ground, making it a "Big 4".
 

tomloans

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Following! I hope you all are doing well. Car is running like a dream since (with all your help) I replaced the 706 heads with 799's. Thanks again!
 

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