engine knock no oil pressure need help asap please

[rayninglead]

Thanks but just a bit to pricey for me lol anything cheaper?

 

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

2000 bucks doesnt seem like much to work with to get a new engine and have it put in

 

[SunlitComet]

And it is new new.

 

[undy]

Thanks but just a bit to pricey for me lol anything cheaper?

Not really... You need vortec heads for your intake manifold. That alone eliminates the cheap stuff. Your other alternative is to rebuild what you have. It could very easy approach $2K anyway.

 

[rayninglead]

I'll be putting it in myself done a couple swaps before that's not a problem. Called a local yard and I can get one complete for 686$ with 160k and just rebuild mine when I can get to it (Have never done it but always wanted to) what should I look for when looking at the one at the yard I can hear run before purchase. Thanks for the replies and sunlit you were right about the bearings lol #3 cylinder on riverside is bye bye. What oil pressure should it have with 160k

 

[SunlitComet]

If you found he sound location when you pulled the plug you might get lucky and just replace that rod bearing. You want to rebuild one dive into this first. Costs you just time, oil pan gaskets, oil, filter, torque wrench, plasti-gage and bearing if all goes well.

---------- Post added at 09:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 PM ----------

Best to have at least 20 psi at idle and revving should get you past 40psi on a bearing/pump healthy engine. Everyone will vary but those numbers with no knocking hot or cold and clean throughout should last a while.

 

[rayninglead]

Thanks I was thinking of changing the one bearing but someone told me if one went the others are right behind I don't know how true that is? And ok now that I know the oil pressure I'm looking for I'll pop my pan off and see how everything looks. What's a good way besides just draining the oil to get those shavings out of my engine? Add a magnet?

 

[undy]

Wow, 700 bucks for a high mileage engine at or near the rebuild stage. I'd walk first and not waste my hard earned $$. Your money...

The people you're talking to are right. If one rod bearing is gone then the rest are not far behind. Don't waste your time on an attempted/failed short term fix. If the rod is knocking, at a minimum it would require resizing.

BTW... Bearing babbit is not magnetic.

 

[rayninglead]

So your saying don't buy the engine at the yard? I planned on buying that to get me by until I rebuild mine. I just don't have the time right now I'm full time in college. So can't rebuild at this time and it's my only transportation so I need it back the quickest and cheapest and need it to last 9 months until I can rebuild my original engine

 

[undy]

You're going to be out +/-$3K in the long run with your current plan and stuck with a rebuilt engine from an unknown (to me) rebuilder.

For a bit over $2K you have a completely new engine with a GM 24 mo, 36K mile engine warranty.

I've got over 50 years of seeing scenarios play out like this and a degree in Automotive Technologies.

Your choice...