Engine Overheating/No Heat

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Rocket Man

Mark
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ok, so due to age what happens is the plastic "t"'s get brittle and so does the plastic end of the hose so it's really best to do both
these are correct OEM part numbers.
you need 1 of each, best price is probably amazon
15834773 (HOSE), 22885825 (HOSE), 15055342 (T-FITTING), 15055343 (T-FITTING)
getting the old ones off can be a real b*itch even with the special tool, so my suggestion is to just cut the plastic clips off with some wire cutters, you will see each hose/T has a part you can squeeze that should release the clip but over time it just becomes extremely hard to do. so just cut the thin part on both sides then the connection will come right off, the new ones will have new clips anyway. it can make the difference between a 10 minute job and 2 hours job
View attachment 386413

Mine came off easier than that on both trucks, thankfully. I found the trick was to push inward firmly on the tube coming into the part of the fitting I was trying to release, and then squeeze the tabs with either my fingers or a pair of pliers. I was able to get all of mine to release that way with no fuss.
I found the trick to those tees is push in on the clips on both sides and twist the connector. Once it turns those tabs are held in by the fitting. Twist and pull without returning to the original orientation or the tabs will release into their locked position. I tested this on the old and new fittings, it works awesome.
 

Rocket Man

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Thanks. Yeah, I noticed watching videos of removing and installing a new radiator that the 2014 Yukon was just like the 2013. This has had me confused a number of times I was working on this rig. I cross checked the parts with Dorman and it looks like while Amazon doesn't recognize them as a proper fit, Dorman does, so I ordered them all as well as the radiator w/o oil cooler from Summit and all should be here in a few days so I can get this knocked out. Looking forward to saving some coolant, having heat, and a proper engine temp. Thank you for all your help.

I will chime back in if I have trouble on install.
Do NOT use Dorman parts for the tees, only genuine GM. The p/n’s are listed in prior posts.
 
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JTsYUKON

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Do NOT use Dorman parts for the tees, only genuine GM. The p/n’s are listed in prior posts.
I just checked and the T’s are original GM parts. Sorry my wording was confusing. The straight and y hoses that go to the T’s are Dorman. Thanks for the tips on removing the clips on the T’s. Someone else mentioned clipping them! I’ll try your way first just in case I need a backup part.
 

Rocket Man

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I just checked and the T’s are original GM parts. Sorry my wording was confusing. The straight and y hoses that go to the T’s are Dorman. Thanks for the tips on removing the clips on the T’s. Someone else mentioned clipping them! I’ll try your way first just in case I need a backup part.
Come back and let us know if it works for you. There’s never been a sure-fire way anybody has mentioned to remove them except to cut them off, so it would be nice to know if it works for others. Common sense says to squeeze and pull but when I squeezed and rotated them the clips stayed released.
 
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JTsYUKON

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Come back and let us know if it works for you. There’s never been a sure-fire way anybody has mentioned to remove them except to cut them off, so it would be nice to know if it works for others. Common sense says to squeeze and pull but when I squeezed and rotated them the clips stayed released.
I will report back. Press, twist, and it makes sense it should stay depressed. I’ve often pushed connectors together and then pull to get them apart. It looks tight in there. Not fun. Thanks again.
 

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