Entry Level Performance Mods

[gooffeyguy]

Uh, ok. Lol

I'm not saying anyones wrong.

All I'm pointing out is that the BlackBear dyno test doesn't test stock with aftermarket filter. All the others come with an aftermarket filter, except the Airaid MIT which is just the tube and only showed 1 hp gain in their test.

Also pointing out that the 2015+ engines are NOT the same as the 2007 - 2014 engines, Gen4 Vortec and gen5 Ecotec, a bit different technologies.

Many on this forum have experience with these mods on these vehicles, and many have owned them for many years and have "been there, done that"

Don't know why you feel so butt-hurt. Bad day?



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[Charlie207]

I think it's worth mentioning that their dyno tests were on a 6.2l engine. Most of us have a 5.3l engine, and I'm sitting here with some spare cash (gun projects are all up to date, so obviously I need to spend my budgeted fun $$$) to upgrade my truck.

I found this website yesterday, via an archived post here, and it got me thinking about how similar this $130 intake is vs. a K&N intake kit at more than THREE times the price.

Lots of folks say that the OEM 5.3l intake is good enough that it's not worth replacing, and I imagine it's pretty darn good, but if I'm looking for better throttle response, would this be worth the $130?

 

[Doubeleive]

I think it's worth mentioning that their dyno tests were on a 6.2l engine. Most of us have a 5.3l engine, and I'm sitting here with some spare cash (gun projects are all up to date, so obviously I need to spend my budgeted fun $$$) to upgrade my truck.

I found this website yesterday, via an archived post here, and it got me thinking about how similar this $130 intake is vs. a K&N intake kit at more than THREE times the price.

Lots of folks say that the OEM 5.3l intake is good enough that it's not worth replacing, and I imagine it's pretty darn good, but if I'm looking for better throttle response, would this be worth the $130?

probably, but if you are in CA. be sure to call them first and ask if it is c.a.r.b complaint, they give little to no info on there website which leads me to think it likely does not come with the sticker needed to pass smog.

 

[Charlie207]

probably, but if you are in CA. be sure to call them first and ask if it is c.a.r.b complaint, they give little to no info on there website which leads me to think it likely does not come with the sticker needed to pass smog.

Good call on the CARB compliance issue for CA residents. I'm in NH, so I'm G2G as far as legalities.

 

[Fubar0715]

Good call on the CARB compliance issue for CA residents. I'm in NH, so I'm G2G as far as legalities.

Oh good-another NH resident....Good to know!

 

[Charlie207]

Oh good-another NH resident....Good to know!

What county? (or town if you're cool with that) Either way... hi.

 

[Fubar0715]

I am in Merrimack (between Nashua and Manchester)

 

[Charlie207]

Over in Claremont.

I just kayaked/floated down the Merrimack River up around Boscowen/Cantebury the other day.

 

[iamdub]

I think it's worth mentioning that their dyno tests were on a 6.2l engine. Most of us have a 5.3l engine, and I'm sitting here with some spare cash (gun projects are all up to date, so obviously I need to spend my budgeted fun $$$) to upgrade my truck.

I found this website yesterday, via an archived post here, and it got me thinking about how similar this $130 intake is vs. a K&N intake kit at more than THREE times the price.

Lots of folks say that the OEM 5.3l intake is good enough that it's not worth replacing, and I imagine it's pretty darn good, but if I'm looking for better throttle response, would this be worth the $130?

I can see those cheaper intakes adding a few horses over stock due to the large surface area of the higher-flowing (read: "lesser efficient") filter media. But, this will be at the expense of clean air going into your engine. Then, any gains would be negated as soon as the engine bay is heated up. There's NO way those "heat shields" seal the filter from the hot air trapped under the hood. Those designs with the bulb seal to conform to the hood are marginally better, but there are still openings all around for hot air to be sucked in.

You can't deny physics when maximizing the efficiency of an intake to feed the engine with all the volume of clean air it needs. You need air ducted in exclusively from OUTSIDE of the engine bay, a filter that cleans the air sufficiently while being large enough to flow all the CFM the engine can inhale and a smooth path to direct it all to the throttle body. Whether you accomplish all of this with $50 in materials or $500 will make no difference. You can't buy magic to circumvent physics.

Those $400+ intakes with the fully enclosed filter boxes satisfy all the necessities as well as scoring some flair points for their aesthetics. But, if you can live without the flair, keep your factory CAI. Polish up its performance sacrifices made in the name of sound muffling, manufacturing costs and "excessive-but-safe" stock filter design and you'd satisfy all the necessities just the same but at a 1/4 of the cost.

You can get a smooth air path to the throttle body with an Airaid MIT or (gasp!) a homemade setup from simple PVC pipe. Drop a quality air filter in the factory box and ensure the seal between the box and the fender is sound.

 

[Charlie207]

I can see those cheaper intakes adding a few horses over stock due to the large surface area of the higher-flowing (read: "lesser efficient") filter media. But, this will be at the expense of clean air going into your engine. Then, any gains would be negated as soon as the engine bay is heated up. There's NO way those "heat shields" seal the filter from the hot air trapped under the hood. Those designs with the bulb seal to conform to the hood are marginally better, but there are still openings all around for hot air to be sucked in.

You can't deny physics when maximizing the efficiency of an intake to feed the engine with all the volume of clean air it needs. You need air ducted in exclusively from OUTSIDE of the engine bay, a filter that cleans the air sufficiently while being large enough to flow all the CFM the engine can inhale and a smooth path to direct it all to the throttle body. Whether you accomplish all of this with $50 in materials or $500 will make no difference. You can't buy magic to circumvent physics.

Those $400+ intakes with the fully enclosed filter boxes satisfy all the necessities as well as scoring some flair points for their aesthetics. But, if you can live without the flair, keep your factory CAI. Polish up its performance sacrifices made in the name of sound muffling, manufacturing costs and "excessive-but-safe" stock filter design and you'd satisfy all the necessities just the same but at a 1/4 of the cost.

You can get a smooth air path to the throttle body with an Airaid MIT or (gasp!) a homemade setup from simple PVC pipe. Drop a quality air filter in the factory box and ensure the seal between the box and the fender is sound.

Good info. (EDIT: I'm in NH, and dust typically isn't an issue like it was when I lived in TX, and to some extent CA.)

Sound deadening isn't an issue; I could care less how much more induction noise there is.

I'm solely after removing all restrictions, so that the engine can breathe optimally. (short of adding forced induction) I would be fine with upgrading the cone filter at a later date once it starts to lose performance/efficiency/gets dirty.

To your knowledge, is there a higher quality drop-in filter that actually improves airflow? I've assumed a new paper filter was pretty efficient as-is.