Excessive draw with bass

[chaingun427]

Ive got a decent set of subwoofers in my truck with what I believe to be an adequate charging system yet I still have issues with dimming and even lids of rpm that I notice when I'm parked. Aside from the big 3 upgrade, I have dual batteries, a 200 amp alternator, and 0 gauge running back to my amp and capacitor. Grounding is achieved with a bolt welded to the floor.

System specs are as follows
2 audiobahn eternal series 12 dual 4 ohm coils wired down to 1 ohm. 1100rms each.

Audiobahn A2300hct 4800w peak at 1 ohm

Sealed box 2.5sqft

Massive band 4 farad capacitor

Dual napa "the legend" 75 series top post batteries

Custom wound 200 amp

0 gauge wiring between batteries, to body ground and engin to frame ground 4 gauge from battery to alternator

With this is there any reason why I should still be getting appreciable dimming, and having the engine bog down on heavy bass?



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[SunlitComet]

is the bolt grounding good with equal size wiring from body to frame to battery? and is the stereo battery a deep cycle? how much load can the alternator handle at what speeds and what is amp draw for amplifier?

 

[chaingun427]

Had the bolt welded professionally, and it's grounded with 0 gauge as well both batteries are wet batteries no deep cycle not sure on amp draw but here is a spec page for it http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33631_Audiobahn-A2300HCJ.html

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[SunlitComet]

Yeah, without those numbers i would not presume to make an assumption to much as to what is going on then. In addition if an amplifier specs can't include THD ratings even in the owners manual I will not touch it nor recommend or give others info on it if asked to because it is usually of cheap design. You can ohm test your wiring and grounds to look for issues and load test your batteries but that is about as far as i could go myself. I never even heard of that capacitor either. I would strongly suggest you call the maker and tell them what is going on because it does not sound like it is a vehicle issue as much as equipment issue. I honestly would not touch any of the equipment that you have nor the batteries or alt because their is to much missing information. sorry.

 

[qukon 95]

I see a num of problems... brand of amp ,amp says hight current ,not a class d amp ,AB amp design not to mention you have it at 1 ohm , try turing the gains down on the amp and
are you sure that alt is doing 200 amp?

 

[Gatorlac]

it could be a different ground issue than the batt/alt, check the amp ground as well

is it only with the system turned up or will the lights dim at low levels?

 

[HoustonDidThat]

Ok, I don't want to rain on your parade. But I'm guessing you spent money in all the wrong places and now your getting what you paid for.

1st, IMO I would start dumping that amp and farad cap. For what you are attempting that amp is not what you want. As sunlit stated you need to know the THD for that amp or any amp you purchase in the future.

You need to calculate how much RMS you want to be pushing and design a system to achieve that number NOT PEAK. So you can get a amp that can achieve that on 2 ohms not 1...IMO.

I can go on and on...only because me and my best friend use to be in a lot of SPL competition.

Quick example; I had 1 powermaster 300amp alternator, 4 Kinectic's 1800 running 2 saz-1500D on 4 Fi subs custom box. Never lost voltage, never had dim light issues, and could easily cruise 125-130dbs.

Map out your system and do some calculations then go from there.