factory console amp and bose sub inop

[zomeizter]

I've been trying to get the sound system working on my Denali, it has an aftermarket head unit installed by the PO but has not worked since I bought it. I took the head unit out and noticed that the factory pink wire was not hooked up to the remote power feed off the head unit. I hooked it up and still no sound to the speakers whatsoever. Battery feed at the amp exists, all fuses good. I did notice that the rear factory amp under the seat is gone, as well as the rear audio controller aft of the console, will this cause the front factory amp and sub in the console to be inoperative? If this is the case, I will bypass the factory amp in the console but would like to use the Bose sub in there, is this doable with the head unit speaker outputs or do I need a dedicated amp to run this sub? Holler...

 

[qukon 95]

FINALLY !!! someone wants to use this bose sub. just take all the bose stuff out speakers,the cd changer and the amp(it's probably blown) now the sub it's a 1.4 ohm sub

so you will need to get a 1 ohm STABLE class d amp i use the mtx 350-th-d1 it puts 350 @ 1 ohm/rms to the sub it's plenty of power for this sub you don't want to blow the sub with
too much power ..can't find no power ratings on this sub. Hopefully your radio has a sub
out put and a low pass filter set it to 100hz now the rest of the speakers has crazy ohms also and you can't use the radio power to play them you will burn the radio speaker outputs out. so just get some 4 ohm speakers i call this sub the little wonder
i took out my 2 12's, 2 500 rms kenwoods amps after hooking this sub up, more room and less wieght in back i even put this sub in my dodge wrk van it sounds amazing.

 

[zomeizter]

Ha! All door speakers have been upgraded except for the headliner tweeters which will be run in series with the rear door speakers or replaced with 6x9s. Ok, the hunt for a 1 ohm stable amp is on, I have a pair of 12" woofers that will eventually make it somewhere in the cargo area in some custom 'glass enclosure(s). Hope the bose sub sounds decent, am not looking for no window rattling bass, just want good thump for my metal/rock and house mix. How bad is it to get the console out to remove the factory changer and amp?

 

[qukon 95]

This sub will fill the cabin with bass and yes you won't hear it blocks away .you will need to completely
Take it apart to get every thing out and I got another one today from the jnk yard I will be doing the same

Thing and test the sub.

 

[zomeizter]

Well what a PITA it was to remove the factory amp and changer, I actually had to take the whole damn console completely apart! Good thing is the Bose sub assembly works great, tested it with the head unit for a few seconds and sounds pretty decent. I would like to know if someone can hook me up with a correct schematic for the big black and blue connectors inside the console. I know one is mostly for the Integrated BCM (blue) and the other one has the audio stuff (black). I counted the terminals on the black connector and there are 54, can't recall the number of terminals on the blue one. I searched online for a schematic but cant find that specific one, AZ site helped a bit but is not dead-on on these connections, I have the luxury Y91 option on the 'nali, holler...

BTW, the factory amp and changer off the truck are up for grabs if anyone has interest on them

 

[qukon 95]

i forgot you have a denali so you will need to screw both wiring harness back on .

 

[zomeizter]

yeah, found that out real quick when I noticed my power everything would not work

 

[qukon 95]

Planet audio has the class d 1 ohm stable amps they are a little cheaper than the mtx amps with the
Similar features. I need to let you know witch color wire on the sub is + & - I have to look at mine first
And is your console color peeling ? every one I got they look awful also after waking this sub up with a
Amp I stuffed the sides of the console to keep rattles down.

 

[zomeizter]

Mine is a bit discolored but not peeling yet. I have the polarity on the sub figured out, i just can't get the headliner speaker wiring identified, i know the colors but no sound out of the units, think it has to do with whatever was removed from under the passenger rear seat, another amp was there?

 

[qukon 95]

Many their blown. It's another Bose amp under the seat or after market amp? You can use a battery like
AA battery at the wires to see if sprks work and to see if wires or good hopefully you want need to run
New speaker wires to start fresh. Have you looked into 1 ohm stable amps yet?