fed up with this thing (searched)

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joyride

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if you are talking fan only working on high and randomly look into the fan switch first. switch on high bypasses resistor completely.

---------- Post added at 02:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:38 AM ----------

and inspect the connector for it too.

Oh ok, thanks! Yeah I meant to say on "high", thats the only setting it works on but it's completely random and we'll never know when it works so it's a real inconvenient pita to have to deal with. so basically the fan switch is located in the dash behind the gauges, knobs what not, and the resistor from what i read searching around, is located on the floorboard at the passenger's feat i'm guessing either underneath the carpet or above it tucked behind the glovebox somewhere?
 

SunlitComet

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when you pull of the dash bezel and remove the hvac head you will see three connectors on back. one is for the fan switch and that switch itself is replaceable. the resistor is on the hvac body assembly behind dash. you should be able to remove the glove box and see it mounted on the top just slightly next to the Blower Hi-speed relay. has yellow, tan, light blue and dark blue wires on it. the dark blue one heads to the nearby relay. the others back to the fan switch.

---------- Post added at 04:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:24 PM ----------

follow pics in this thread for details. http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13619
 
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Ok so I just replaced the blower motor resistor with one from a junkyard...I didn't realize til' after the fact that the piece was only 17 bucks, and wasn't all that hard to replace too. I guess next is buying that, and also maybe the blower motor switch itself. Is it even possible to inspect and splice in a new connector if the one for the blower motor resistor is bad, seeing how there is very limited space to work in, in there? Or are we lucky enough that the wiring for the resistor connector is long enough and can be freed up so that we can work on it underneath the glovebox area or something?
 

SunlitComet

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the wires do pull out a bit otherwise you would not be able to plug it back in. you should have enough room to splice in new switch pigtail if not get crimpers with teeth at the nose.
 
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Hmmm. Maybe I'll give it a shot then I guess. Do they sell the switch pigtails for the blower resistor at the parts store or do I need to go cut the one off from the JY?
 

saif najd

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Mr.Sun I need your help again :)

The symptoms:
1- I had two batterys connected to the stock alternator (2× 78Amp batterys)
- now only one!
2- the first alternator was fried so I replace it today to a renewed one (it was reading 12.8v-11.9v the new one one show 14v)
3- after few hours of use it drops again to 12.3v
4- I think the alternator has been damged again :banghead:
5- tgere is a hi squeak sound in the morning or first start coold start.

Note: just now it jumped from 12.3V to 13.8V when I was about to turn the engine off and the oil bumb improved too I turned off the engine and start it again it went down to 12.3V


The battery (AC Delco was replaced 5 days ago)

What do you think is wrong?
 
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