First GM truck, 2013 Tahoe PPV

[Caddylack]

Yes, all OEM HUs are VIN-locked. Pending verification of your wiring, it's looking like the radio doesn't understand the "turn on" command from the Tahoe.

I was hoping that yanking the chip would defeat this issue, but the computer stuff is over my head at this point.

I think I will put the Malibu radio back on the shelf in the closet until I learn how to tune these LS computers.

 

[Caddylack]

Another thought... As far as my yellow switched 12v wire not giving me power... I wonder if it could be related to my disconnected second battery? Are the cop extras dependent on this second battery at all? I'm not sure how things are wired. I know there are many fuses, though.

 

[89Suburban]

The wheels are for sale right now. I'm only asking $400 without tires, including all 24 police lug nuts. I once put 4 police wheels in a box and FedEx'd them for like $150 or so.

I'm hot for a set of those, but I got to get the fundage. When I got it I will be reaching out to see if you still have them.

 

[iamdub]

I'm all ready to put in an aftermarket head unit right now, but I realized there may be a snag with my ghetto chime retention setup...

Ultimately, the chime sound still outputs through the regular speaker wires on the factory radio, yes?

AFAIK, it plays warning chimes and turn signal ticks only through the left front speaker.

In that case, I'm suddenly not sure how I would be able to get the chime sound to play over speakers that are wired to an aftermarket head unit.

I thought that was the point of keeping those guts of the original HU in place and connected. But, yeah, where does the aftermarket come in? Maybe the chimes will interject and play in addition to what the aftermarket radio is playing? I think the stock one attenuates, if not completely mutes the left front speaker when it plays a chime.

Beneath the instrument panel, I found a male/female connection with 8 pins for each of the 8 F/R speaker wires. In other words, my amp is wired for me. I can just pull the pins out of these connectors and put them into the connectors on the amp. I wonder if the civilian trucks have a harness that would "T" in here for the factory amplified systems?

Have a pic of this? I had planned to keep an OEM HU and was all geared up to find the low-level speaker signal wires going to my amp in the harness inside the center console, where the amp is located. I'd leave them going to the amp and just tap into them for a signal to the aftermarket amps. I wanna keep the factory sub for midbass and as a filler. I have an aftermarket HU now, so I'll just use the RCAs and the interface module keeps the Bose system operating otherwise as normal.

It's only a matter of time before these trucks catch on with the "serious" audio crowd. It's literally the only car you can buy that is already factory-wired front to back to this degree (125A to the rear cargo area, wow).

That's convenient! Also, with the utilitarian nature of the PPV, this is convenient for the overlanding crowd that would have accessories back there for camping, tools, chargers, lighting, etc.

 

[Caddylack]

I thought that was the point of keeping those guts of the original HU in place and connected. But, yeah, where does the aftermarket come in? Maybe the chimes will interject and play in addition to what the aftermarket radio is playing? I think the stock one attenuates, if not completely mutes the left front speaker when it plays a chime.

Well, I suppose my fear is that there is some sort of computer involvement. Is it possible to wire a speaker "directly" to play two different sounds?

I will snap a pic of the 8-pin speaker harness shortly.

 

[iamdub]

Well, I suppose my fear is that there is some sort of computer involvement. Is it possible to wire a speaker "directly" to play two different sounds?

Hmmm. I suppose this might be a possibility. It'd be easy to test once you re-pin the harness back to original form and plug it to them guts. Also, I believe the rear speakers are disabled in the PPV. Not sure how, though.

For all the trouble, why not just get an interface? The best, but really pricey is the Maestro RR. Really, since you don't have rear seat entertainment and other fancy doodads to keep functional, you could get by with any of the regular $30-$100 interfaces. The PAC GMLAN and Axxess GMOS stuff is pretty good. About the only real differences between the brands are the "artificial" chime recreations. They sound different than stock, some more so than othes. As far as models of PAC and Axxess, it's features like built-in steering wheel controls or requiring an additional interface. Not a concern for you unless you wanna ad factory SWC.

Although it works just fine, I'll be swapping my Axxess interface for a PAC GMOS because I don't like the blinker or reverse sensor warning tones of the Axxess. Also, the PAC has the SWC built-in so I can use the add-on SWC interface I'm using with the Axxess on another vehicle (it's universal).

 

[Caddylack]

Hmmm. I suppose this might be a possibility. It'd be easy to test once you re-pin the harness back to original form and plug it to them guts. Also, I believe the rear speakers are disabled in the PPV. Not sure how, though.

For all the trouble, why not just get an interface? The best, but really pricey is the Maestro RR. Really, since you don't have rear seat entertainment and other fancy doodads to keep functional, you could get by with any of the regular $30-$100 interfaces. The PAC GMLAN and Axxess GMOS stuff is pretty good. About the only real differences between the brands are the "artificial" chime recreations. They sound different than stock, some more so than othes. As far as models of PAC and Axxess, it's features like built-in steering wheel controls or requiring an additional interface. Not a concern for you unless you wanna ad factory SWC.

Although it works just fine, I'll be swapping my Axxess interface for a PAC GMOS because I don't like the blinker or reverse sensor warning tones of the Axxess. Also, the PAC has the SWC built-in so I can use the add-on SWC interface I'm using with the Axxess on another vehicle (it's universal).

This started with me thinking I found a quick and easy way to retain chime, and it has turned into "maybe I should buy a chime retention module", haha.

 

[Sparksalot]

Hmmm. I suppose this might be a possibility. It'd be easy to test once you re-pin the harness back to original form and plug it to them guts. Also, I believe the rear speakers are disabled in the PPV. Not sure how, though.

For all the trouble, why not just get an interface? The best, but really pricey is the Maestro RR. Really, since you don't have rear seat entertainment and other fancy doodads to keep functional, you could get by with any of the regular $30-$100 interfaces. The PAC GMLAN and Axxess GMOS stuff is pretty good. About the only real differences between the brands are the "artificial" chime recreations. They sound different than stock, some more so than othes. As far as models of PAC and Axxess, it's features like built-in steering wheel controls or requiring an additional interface. Not a concern for you unless you wanna ad factory SWC.

Although it works just fine, I'll be swapping my Axxess interface for a PAC GMOS because I don't like the blinker or reverse sensor warning tones of the Axxess. Also, the PAC has the SWC built-in so I can use the add-on SWC interface I'm using with the Axxess on another vehicle (it's universal).

The rear speakers are functional in both of mine.

 

[Caddylack]

The rear speakers are functional in both of mine.

I think I probably just have loose connectors hanging in each rear door. I have sheet metal door panels, and I verified that the speaker locations on each side of the tailgate are empty (no wiring, I assume that's just for Bose?).

I did manage to figure out some more of my wiring situation this evening.

In the upfitter box, I've got 12v constant and 12v switched power terminals in the exact location I expected (thanks to you folks). In the panel on the passenger side of the dash, the uppermost connector is completely missing. Maybe this connector is for civilian stuff? There are only two spade terminals for this connector, just constant and ground.

Aside from the chime, the only other issue is the non-working "police upfitting" harness. I found a disconnected power connector under the hood, and I was surprised that plugging it in made no difference. Still zero power at this harness.

The power distribution block on the primary battery has three fuses: 175A that goes to the other battery, 125A that goes to the rear cargo area, and 60A that goes to the center console area.

The 60A circuit supposedly splits off into two 30A fused circuits, and I really want to use one of these 30A feeds for my amp so that I don't need to add additional wiring. If I'm lucky, there will be a disconnect between the firewall and the passenger side fender that has been unplugged.

Tomorrow I will finish the audio install and start my build thread. Good night!

 

[iamdub]

The rear speakers are functional in both of mine.

Maybe it varies between installations. Or how ruthless the uninstallers are.