Fix and Keep My 2015 GMC Yukon SLT or Get Rid of It?

[EducatorDan]

BringTheNoise - I was going to tease you about being so worried about a 200K Yukon when you work at a BMW dealership and the great reputation that BMW has for aging well... All kidding aside...

As others have said it looks like you're on the right path. The only thing that came to mind is whether the trucks computer might store things like that "hill start assist" light coming on and if a code reader could pull information about it. Although as others have said, start by checking the condition of the brake fluid.

 

[fozzi58]

Your buddy that is a BMW mechanic and does work on the side - let him do the "all mechanics" stuff. The "all mechanic stuff" is stuff every mechanic should be able to do. Changing oil. Antifreeze flush. etc.

Even flushing the brake fluid (even you can do that with a $30 pump from Amazon) for example. That should definitely make the pedal feel better

He should also be able to check and replace basic suspension components like sway bar bushings and sway bar links if they need it. Check bearings on wheels.

The AFM\DOD delete (4 cylinder deactivation) can be done with a $50 device off amazon.

Lots of good advice in this thread to get you started.

Keep the truck. You will be happy.

 

[BringTheNoise]

I never did see or read, what engine is in this XL, a 5.3 or 6.2?

Sorry for the delay it’s a 5.3

 

[Loki223]

if it makes you feel better about debating to fix a 2015 or not, i just finished going through a 2015 that i bought for cheap because it had problems. 160k on the clock and it needed work, but was otherwise in fantastic shape. Couple thousand into it, and i'm still cheaper then buying one in perfect shape that likely needs work that they just don't know about yet. Any 10 year old 200k mile vehicle will need work. But in terms of lifespan, these GM rigs are some of the better ones out there. When we started our search for a cheap 2015+ my wife started complaining about the number of people that drive the crap out of these things. So many for over 20k with 300k or more on them. And no CELs or known issues (per the sellers) I wanted something around 150k miles to get the right mix of has issues, but still lower miles. And whilei didn't realize we'd have to go as far into the thing as we did, i'm still very happy with the end results. Take care of your rig and she'll take care of you. This isn't a german product built for the first owner to have for 50k miles. It also wasn't built in the 70s where 150k miles was starting to get up there. These things can easily run 3-400k miles without major overhauls, but as with anything, there will always be things that wear out and need replaced. ID them early and be happy with the comforts of these burbs

 

[BringTheNoise]

if it makes you feel better about debating to fix a 2015 or not, i just finished going through a 2015 that i bought for cheap because it had problems. 160k on the clock and it needed work, but was otherwise in fantastic shape. Couple thousand into it, and i'm still cheaper then buying one in perfect shape that likely needs work that they just don't know about yet. Any 10 year old 200k mile vehicle will need work. But in terms of lifespan, these GM rigs are some of the better ones out there. When we started our search for a cheap 2015+ my wife started complaining about the number of people that drive the crap out of these things. So many for over 20k with 300k or more on them. And no CELs or known issues (per the sellers) I wanted something around 150k miles to get the right mix of has issues, but still lower miles. And whilei didn't realize we'd have to go as far into the thing as we did, i'm still very happy with the end results. Take care of your rig and she'll take care of you. This isn't a german product built for the first owner to have for 50k miles. It also wasn't built in the 70s where 150k miles was starting to get up there. These things can easily run 3-400k miles without major overhauls, but as with anything, there will always be things that wear out and need replaced. ID them early and be happy with the comforts of these burbs

Thank You For Your Reply. I bought all the suspension components, Fluids (Diff, Transfer case, coolant, brake fluid), spark plugs and wires. I also bought a parking brake cable. So I had everything ready to go but my friend can’t do all the work I need until next Friday and Saturday. Last night I suddenly realized I never had tried to really check out the acceleration. I gently acceloand there was a real bogged down feeling on the power so I mashed the throttle and the check engine light started flashing and the power was diminished from the engine. I pulled over and into a gas station. I had half a tank left so I thought while I was there I’d fill it up. I started the car and no check engine flashing. Typical light shake at idle but I decided I should get it ba k to the shop. On my way back it started pouring and then then when I was pulling back into the dealership the car was sputtering and shaking. I plugged in my scab took and it said I had a misfire in cylinder 7.

I’m hoping the spark plugs and wires fix this but I’m worried I’m digging s big old money hole.

 

[BringTheNoise]

BringTheNoise - I was going to tease you about being so worried about a 200K Yukon when you work at a BMW dealership and the great reputation that BMW has for aging well... All kidding aside...

As others have said it looks like you're on the right path. The only thing that came to mind is whether the trucks computer might store things like that "hill start assist" light coming on and if a code reader could pull information about it. Although as others have said, start by checking the condition of the brake fluid.

Thank You for your reply

 

[Loki223]

Thank You For Your Reply. I bought all the suspension components, Fluids (Diff, Transfer case, coolant, brake fluid), spark plugs and wires. I also bought a parking brake cable. So I had everything ready to go but my friend can’t do all the work I need until next Friday and Saturday. Last night I suddenly realized I never had tried to really check out the acceleration. I gently acceloand there was a real bogged down feeling on the power so I mashed the throttle and the check engine light started flashing and the power was diminished from the engine. I pulled over and into a gas station. I had half a tank left so I thought while I was there I’d fill it up. I started the car and no check engine flashing. Typical light shake at idle but I decided I should get it ba k to the shop. On my way back it started pouring and then then when I was pulling back into the dealership the car was sputtering and shaking. I plugged in my scab took and it said I had a misfire in cylinder 7.

I’m hoping the spark plugs and wires fix this but I’m worried I’m digging s big old money hole.

Could possibly be the fuel pump depending on the code. Your mechanic buddy should be able to diagnose it. When we replaced our fuel pump the tapet that runs teh fuel pump had failed. Wasn't a big job, just pull the intake plenum and get down to the V and you are right there. Could've been a better design but i'm sure GM had a reason to no longer be the easiest engine to work on like they used to be.