Flat towing a Tahoe..

[Freedom Motorsports]

As for towing behind an RV? IF you can find out for sure, if it was, RUUUNNNN!!!!

I say check it out good, just because it was purchased by the dealer at auction doesn't mean there is no history. Tell the dealer you want a VIS report from the service department to show the dealer service history. That report will give you an idea of all warranty repairs and dealer servicing the truck has received in it's life. Most will be short, some will be long with a history of replacing certain components more than once. Watch out for that. You WANT a short VIS. All you really want to see is if the regular services schedule was performed at the dealership. Most aren't, if this one was I say GRAB IT AND RUNNNN.

Then ask the dealer for an "AutoCheck" report or get one yourself. They tend to be a little more accurate than Carfax.

Once that is done and you are satisfied to that point, insist on an independent Mechanic check up. Have a different shop check the overall maintenance and condition of the vehicle. Check the fluids, idler and pitman arms, ball joints, ujoints, axles, seals etc, etc. Give it a good run through. Don't worry if there are a few things wrong with it, that can work to your favor. Make a list and get independent quotes for the repairs.

Now that you know more about it, time to negotiate asking price. Have your reports and check list of needed repairs if any in hand when you sit down to negotiate. Ask for their bottom dollar asking price. Their price will usually be right around "Clean Retail" according to whatever book they use, NADA, Black Book, Kelley Blue Book, whatever.

Once you have their price, you pull out the information you gathered and begin deducting for damage, needed repairs, needed maintenance, etc and let the negotiations begin.

In the end, there is risk in any used OR NEW vehicle purchase. The best thing to remember is that you are the one that is going to have to live with it for the next 3-7 years depending on your payment financing options. Take the time to do it right and you will be less likely to have the "Buyer's Remorse" slap you in the mouth a few months later.

 

[stevek]

It says it's an AWD, which I think means the transfer case can't be put in Neutral. So, doesn't that mean all the driveshafts, transfer case and tranny are turning when being towed? I thought you weren't supposed to tow an AWD vehicle like that. I would have thought the selectible transfer case put in neutral would have been a better bet.

Also, it says it has 62,000 miles on it, which comes out to average driving of about 15k per year. But, it's been towed. So how many miles are really on it? If it was towed by a motor home, then the bearings, hubs, rear end, u-joints, front drive shafts, differentials, shocks, ball joints, transfer case, etc. all could have a lot more miles on it. If the people put 15k on a year, plus they towed it, I would guess the chassis would have well over 100k on it. I'd pass. I think you are going to have suspension, bearing and transfer case related issues.

If it's towed with the drive wheels on the ground, miles still accumulate

 

[taylorjm]

Really?? The miles will accumulate with the wheels on the ground? Even with no power to the dashboard? What if the battery is disconnected? Not that I don't believe you, but since the odometer is all electronic, I don't understand how it can accumulate miles without power.

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

Really?? The miles will accumulate with the wheels on the ground? Even with no power to the dashboard? What if the battery is disconnected? Not that I don't believe you, but since the odometer is all electronic, I don't understand how it can accumulate miles without power.

Just because the odometer itself may not accumulate, the miles still do. The only real way of avoiding this is like stated, to tow it with a dolly, and even then the miles still accumulate on the rear suspension and tires. I think what he was saying is that you are putting miles on the truck, but much more so if it is towed with a tow bar instead of a dolly. It is actually harder on the front steering components than driving it would be.