October 2015
73250 miles
After working out of town this summer, it was time to get back to work on the Tahoe in September. Thankfully the wife tolerated my truck sitting covered under the carport during the dog days of summer and put up with the mess I made of the house with spare parts for the various projects that would consume all of September when I got home. I had really only planned a few changes, but too much time on the TYF pushed me in a few new directions that I might not have considered and I decided to take on a quite a bit at once since the truck was torn apart. Pretty damn happy with the results. Hope you all enjoy this detailed report and the way she is looking now. I sure do and have got nothing but killer compliments.
The first order of business was to change out the nasty OEM carpet. It looked and smelled horrible and I had wanted to change it out since I started working on the truck back in late 2013. I ordered a few free samples from
stockinteriors.com to compare to the OEM color as I wanted to go a bit darker this time, but not too dark. After a few ridiculous quotes for installation, I decided to save the labor cost and do it myself. Not too challenging, just time consuming and hot.
ACC (Automotive Custom Carpet is the company that
stockinteriors.com get their orders from. If you go directly to AAC to order directly through their website, make sure and check the price as they appear to be a bit higher so do your research). TYF member Red Rocket had just replaced his carpet with the same color, so that sold me. #8078 Dark Grey. Cost of the complete 4 door plush cut carpet with mass backing and the custom carpet floor mats front and back to complement the new carpet was $500.
I had already ordered the T50 Torx bit for the middle seat belts that bolt in by the doors and the rear tie downs by the lift gate. I had also ordered an E14 driver bit for the front seat rear bolts, but after searching further on TYF, I found that the rear bolts can also take a 7/16" long socket and the front bolts took a 15mm long socket. The front seat rear bolts go all the way through the floor of the truck while the front bolts are welded to the floor of the truck. The middle row seats have an 18mm nut that threads on to the bolt that is already welded to truck floor. There is also a 1/2" nut that connects the 60/40 split.
With all necessary materials and tools on hand, I ripped apart the interior of the truck from front to back. Three rows of seats and all the trim was removed so that I could access all the edges properly. The replacement carpet is pre-formed around the wheel wells, the transmission hump and the slight elevation between the middle and rear seats. All other holes for seat bolts or trim pieces need to be custom cut by you. Make sure and get a good sturdy pair of shears that can cut carpet. I ordered the mass backing option and that stuff just laughed at my new shears. It took a little extra effort to work through that stuff, but I did succeed.
I could not believe how nasty the OEM carpet really was once it was out of the truck. Night and day difference in looks and smell. Coupled with the new leather driver seat bottom before the summer, the truck smells so much better. The new carpet came back to shape as it baked on my hot Florida driveway. I made use of that time to vacuum and wipe down the inside of the truck. The OEM carpet pad was still in great shape so just a quick shake out was all that was needed.
My wife came out to look at my progress, as the house was now filled with the seats and trim pieces and the Tahoe was gutted to the metal. She looked at the headliner and said you might as well replace that while you have the truck ripped apart. You don't have to tell me twice. More trim came off and shortly thereafter the headliner came down. I had unplugged everything, but could not access the main wiring harness plug behind the dash and did not feel like trying to trace it back. So I labelled the plug ends and carefully pulled the wires from the headliner as they had been hot glued in place. I called the upholstery shop and they had the headliner and visors back to me in one day for $250. Money well spent for that effort of letting them clean off the old stuff and install the new material. I went a few shades darker on the overhead from the pewter to dark grey.
With the headliner out, it was time to delete that fugly OnStar antenna. I have always hated that shark fin up top. I unplugged it and pulled it out. One small hole and one bigger hole plus some marks from the antenna having been up there for 10 years. Good time to pull it off as the screws on the underside of the antenna were rusted and starting to mark the paint on the roof. Hmm...not wanting to get into some body work on those holes I found some plastic plugs at Lowe's (surprisingly they have a good selection of metric and automotive plugs) to plug the holes.
I already had some rattle can OEM color from
automotivetouchup.com sitting around from previous color matching projects. I gave them a quick sand, primer, topcoat and clear coat and used some black silicone sealant to put them in place. I sealed them up top and wiped clean around the edges and then again on the inside of the roof. I made sure and gooped on a considerable amount of sealant around the holes to keep it all dry, especially with the new headliner. One plug was a body panel fastener with a wide head and the ribbed threads. The other plug was the type with a wider base and two very small extrusions that lock it into place. Of course the diameter of the holes in the roof and the plugs do not match perfectly, so there was a bit of creativity needed to secure them in place underneath, but also create enough surface space on top to seal up from water.
As the roof holes were actually bigger than the head and the ribbed thread of the body panel fastener, I used a combination of 3 nylon washers to hold the plug in place by pushing them up the threads to secure the plug in place and not allow it to pull out or shift around. It worked as good as a regular nut would and spread the pulling power over the wide washer. With the plugs in place and color matched as well, it is low profile up top and unless you are looking right at it (or an OCD TYF member spots it), you won't even notice. Worth saving some time on the filling and fairing side of things. By the time the headliner went in a couple of days later, that sealant was flexible, but waterproof. Looks sweet and OnStar shark fin is gone!
With the new color headliner a few shades darker grey, I decided to paint all the pieces stuck in the overhead as well to better blend in. I found a darker grey at Lowe's that turned out really nice after dismantling the pieces as far as they could be taken apart to get the best coverage. That set me back a few days before I could reinstall the headliner. I used two coats of paint and two coats of satin clear coat to bring down the shine. I think it turned out really nice and since it is not high traffic, it should hold up pretty good. I put the headliner back inside the truck, fired up the glue gun and laid down the wire harness in the exact same track spots. The headliner went back up and I installed the painted pieces before starting on the carpet. It was still worth having the pros install the new material and doing the installation in the truck myself.