Found a 14 Bolt SF...

[nimrodcs]

Thanks for that solution, Busted Knuckles. Much appreciated.

Lol. I actually was using a screwdriver!

Yeah, I kinda f**ked up the adjuster screw on the first side, but I was more careful on the other side, and did like u said, but still used a screwdriver. It worked better. I'll probably get a spoon to adjust the new brakes I put on though, no sense in damaging those.


Anyway, got the drums off and shot the tubes, cover, and housing with primer so it would stop rusting. Now, I need to replace a few lug studs that have damaged threads, install new brake shoes and hardware, paint (flat black), fill with oil, and get it in my truck. Not enough time in the day.......

 

[Busted Knuckles]

Brake Whoa's....

Good goin' ! I've done it a 100 times .

I've got a 96 Hoe' that has 187k on it . So I'm rebuilding the entire front end
(No choice) .

The brakes were toast , even the hard lines .

See you're about 100 miles from us .
Steve

 

[nimrodcs]

Good goin' ! I've done it a 100 times .

I've got a 96 Hoe' that has 187k on it . So I'm rebuilding the entire front end
(No choice) .

The brakes were toast , even the hard lines .

See you're about 100 miles from us .
Steve

100 times, you say? Thats good. Because I'm probably gonna have some trouble reinstalling that brake hardware, lol. I've never liked drum brakes, so hopefully within the next year I'll convert to rear disc when I install a TrueTrac, or equivalent.

Good luck with your front end. Mine needs a rebuild too, but I don't even want to start thinking about that.

100 miles away from me, in the Ozarks. That puts you around... Branson, maybe?

 

[Busted Knuckles]

8.5 Frag

I had the same "Gov-Lok" in my 96 tahoe . Tried to "yard out" 4 60'+ Oaks .
Results ,,,fragged carrier, side gears ,axle bearings seals and,,, a brand new brake job .Dealer ship wanted about $1500-1700 P/L .
Did the job in my shop .
It's got the Detroit Tru-Trac in it now with those abyssmal 3.42's .
But the 4L60E can only take about what , 360 ft lbs. of torque ? I can't move up much on gear and tire . No big lifts , no monster tires . Mine will run 285/75's . And be one load hauling Tahoe .
So now I'm looking at possibly finding a 1 ton or 3/4 ton chassis/running gear and make the sukker fit ,instead of trying to stuff a diesel/6 spd. Allison into a 1/2 ton chassis . The wiring harness oughta be fun if this happens .

We're about 70 miles west of Springfield in some bottom lands .

---------- Post added at 01:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------

Anyway, got the drums off and shot the tubes, cover, and housing with primer so it would stop rusting.

Make sure to give it abour 3 coats of chassis black to seal it . Bare primer will still rust underneath .

 

[nimrodcs]

Yep, I have heard that about these Gov-Bombs. Seen a lot of nasty aftermath pics of them too. I'm just hoping it lasts me a little while so I can budget for a new diff.

How do you like your TruTrac? I like the design of them and I'm pretty sure its what I want. I'm gonna keep my 3.73 ratio because I don't do any major off-roading and won't be running huge tires either and I'm too cheap to replace front/rear gears at the same time. Lol.

So now I'm looking at possibly finding a 1 ton or 3/4 ton chassis/running gear and make the sukker fit ,instead of trying to stuff a diesel/6 spd. Allison into a 1/2 ton chassis . The wiring harness oughta be fun if this happens .

Have you thought about building yours up to a 4L65E or getting a 4L80E? It just might be a little easier and give you more torque handling. I agree though, an Allison would definately be strong enough.

Oh yeah, I put a couple coats of black on it already. Just haven't had a photo opportunity yet.

 

[Busted Knuckles]

Good One - Gov. Bombs

Yeah I rode a trip to STL. and back (400 miles) with mine chewed to crap .
75-80 mph up there at times . We got very lucky , the retainer pin was eaten almost 1/2 through . That at 75+ would take trans. case/tranny may even break a crank , who knows... Not something I'd like to do even by choice !

I read (here as well) about different diffs. for a week or so and went for the "Tru Trac" . The roads are dicey at best .So I wanted something that was road friendly , But could hook quickly .You don't know it's there (no clacking,nohop, etc.) . The helical gears are great ! It locks "right-now" .
Other diffs were either cone type or clutch and some weren't even rebuildable . Don't know about you but I'm not in to tossing 600-700 and throw it away when it's shot .
Also depends on what your rig is for . The diffs above the "Tru-Track ,posi,etc. wear tires and tend to get squirrley on wet and icy roads .

Do you have a a personal shop( or a buddy) with access to Dial Gages?
They aren't real expensive . You'll need a Dial Indicator Magentic Base at the very least . I didn't mess with my pinion gear so I didn't need a Pinion Depth Gage (Now you're into some cash ).
I got LUCKY ! I pressed on the new carrie bearings and started the set-up .
The specs are .005"-.009" Mine came in @ .010" , .001" over spec and that is good enough for me . By then I'd been at it about 6-8 hrs.
Neat trick for the side bearings : I froze my diff. for week in the freezer , I have a wood stove in my shop so I heated the bearings on it for about 1/2 hour the stood the Diff on a board and drove the bearings slick and easy . Don't take the diff out until your ready with the bears (make sure you wrap the diff in a couple old towels to keep it cool ).
If you can get to a metal scrap yard or steel yard and get some scrap sched 40 and 80 Black Pipe (prefer 80) 1"-2.5" I.D. They make great drivers for bearings ,seals, bushings , ball joints .
Lemme know .

This is a good place to work with and prices are great

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetra...-Slip.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5589&t_pl=5459

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

if you have 4 wheel parts do the work, make sure they know what they are doing.

took them three sets of gear to get my rear end right, and then they didn't put the Auburn E-Locker in right... shredded the wires, still need to have that fixed... had them do it cause it was the daily driver and i didn't have the time, of course ended up taking a heck of alot longer than promised! ha

 

[nimrodcs]

Nope, don't have any dial gauges. I've priced them at Harbor Freight for about $30. Just never used them before. Guess I'll figure that out when I get there. I'll have a bunch of questions then...

Never heard of "4 Wheel Parts" before. Looks like the closest one is over 2 hours away from me, so I'll probably have to ask around to find a reputable rearend shop locally if I decide not to tackle the job myself.


The E-lockers look badass, just too exspensive. Especially if the shop that installs it f**ks it up from the get-go. I hate taking my vehicles to a shop that ends up messing things up worse. Thats why I started doing things myself. I keep learning, and my tool box gets heavier.

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

The E-lockers look badass, just too exspensive. Especially if the shop that installs it f**ks it up from the get-go. I hate taking my vehicles to a shop that ends up messing things up worse. Thats why I started doing things myself. I keep learning, and my tool box gets heavier.

it worked between the second and third set of gears, and it was awesome. acts as a regular limited slip when not on, and rock solid as soon as you hit the switch. was a good chuck of change, sort of a bad choice since i don't plan on keeping the 10 bolt. buying spee got the better of me!

gotta agree with the tool box getting heavier...

 

[Busted Knuckles]

Setting your own Diff.

Nope, don't have any dial gauges. I've priced them at Harbor Freight for about $30. Just never used them before. Guess I'll figure that out when I get there. I'll have a bunch of questions then...

Never heard of "4 Wheel Parts" before. Looks like the closest one is over 2 hours away from me, so I'll probably have to ask around to find a reputable rearend shop locally if I decide not to tackle the job myself.


The E-lockers look badass, just too exspensive. Especially if the shop that installs it f**ks it up from the get-go. I hate taking my vehicles to a shop that ends up messing things up worse. Thats why I started doing things myself. I keep learning, and my tool box gets heavier.

Hey Nim ,
The 14 boly you snagged , what was it out of ? Is it a disc brake rear end ?
Setting a rear end is not all that bad . A bit long winded but very do-ible if you have moderate mechanics skill . I had never done it , but I don't trust shops very often , kinda like "96 Pro.." with his situation . ****** work and maybe no back up .
No , I just put in 4 Wheel Parts for their parts . One helluva selection for trucks ,good service and decent shipping . I also looked at Summit and their price may be cheaper and their shipping rates are real good . It was late so I can't remeber for sure if it was a truck diff .

Anyway , You need a Dial Indicator , a magnetic base and several adapter bars , and either a 0-1" Micrometer or a set of Venier Calipers (again , Harbor freight) .

I can give you step by step on the way "I" did mine and I may have pics too .
If you're up to it let me know and I'll walk you through it .

Sorry to hear that sh!te "Pro-Comp" that's gotta suck big time . Can the internal wire harness be replaced ? Would be better than splicing , just for the possibility of shorting it out in lube . I'd like an E-locker in the front .
How do they compare with an ARB Air Locker in price and quality ?
I know the compressor is pricey too .

I gotta long way to go . I really want to get some torque for heavy pulling .
But there are the other things -tranny rebuild (major) , torque conveter (the list goes on) or go to a 4L80E . If I head for Flagstaff or Nevada etc. the roads and mountains there can be vicious .
Always do a Big Block conversion , but a diesel sounds more efficient . And if I find the right donor I may just adapt the frame to the Tahoe . If the frame rail width are close on a 3/4 ton that would be the way to go . I know a 1 ton won't work .