Front caliper banjo bolt torque specs?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
J

jyi786

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Posts
412
Reaction score
220
You all definitely helped me out, can't fault you for that, totally grateful. :) This is just more for info; I just hope anyone who comes across this thread does it in time before they change their caliper and then royally screw something up because of the little banjo bolt!
 

wsteele

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Posts
1,731
Reaction score
2,350
You all definitely helped me out, can't fault you for that. This is just more for info; I just hope anyone who comes across this thread does it in time before they change their caliper and then royally screw something up because of the little banjo bolt!

One thing that crossed my mind, what material were the crush washers? I am wondering if too soft a crush washer material could screw up the torque specs?
 
OP
OP
J

jyi786

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Posts
412
Reaction score
220
One thing that crossed my mind, what material were the crush washers? I am wondering if too soft a crush washer material could screw up the torque specs?

All the crush washers I have are directly from GM. They are copper; very soft.
 

wsteele

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Posts
1,731
Reaction score
2,350
All the crush washers I have are directly from GM. They are copper; very soft.

I was just wondering if the material were soft enough, it might allow the screw to bottom, taking some contact area in the threads (and strength of the fastener body) out of the torque/yield equation. Just guessing as it really is a head scratcher.
 
OP
OP
J

jyi786

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Posts
412
Reaction score
220
I was just wondering if the material were soft enough, it might allow the screw to bottom, taking some contact area in the threads (and strength of the fastener body) out of the torque/yield equation. Just guessing as it really is a head scratcher.

Actually, that's what was surprising. When I took the set off, after the first banjo bolt got screwed up, I actually was able to REUSE the new crush washers after the first install attempt because they were in immaculate condition. Like they weren't even "crushed".
 

wsteele

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Posts
1,731
Reaction score
2,350
Actually, that's what was surprising. When I took the set off, after the first banjo bolt got screwed up, I actually was able to REUSE the new crush washers after the first install attempt because they were in immaculate condition. Like they weren't even "crushed".

Very strange indeed. I wonder if maybe the bolts weren't the proper material, improper heat treating or maybe knock-offs?
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
6,427
Reaction score
15,932
Location
Richmond, VA
Very strange indeed. I wonder if maybe the bolts weren't the proper material, improper heat treating or maybe knock-offs?
Yeah, that's my worry also. I would be hesitant to put any pressurized component in my braking system that couldn't hold up to the factory torque specs. Because if it fails, it will do so when it's under the greatest pressure load, such as under emergency braking. I'd be inclined to order a new bolt from GM and swap it out if it were my truck.
 
OP
OP
J

jyi786

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Posts
412
Reaction score
220
Yeah, that's my worry also. I would be hesitant to put any pressurized component in my braking system that couldn't hold up to the factory torque specs. Because if it fails, it will do so when it's under the greatest pressure load, such as under emergency braking. I'd be inclined to order a new bolt from GM and swap it out if it were my truck.

The bolts and crush washers were straight from GM.

Banjo bolt: PN #11569669
Banjo bolt washer: PN #21012386

I hear you about the emergency braking. That's why I took it out yesterday after I was done, and gradually braked, until I was confident enough. I then took it to 70+ MPH and stomped on the brake to bring it down to zero. I did this about 7-8 times. I've never felt my truck ever stop better; it almost stops like a small car would. I actually have to be more judicious now compared to before with brake usage, because a light tap is all that's needed; pushing it too hard is enough to slow down the truck really fast (i.e. the brakes are way more responsive now).
 

wsteele

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Posts
1,731
Reaction score
2,350
The bolts and crush washers were straight from GM.

Banjo bolt: PN #11569669
Banjo bolt washer: PN #21012386

I hear you about the emergency braking. That's why I took it out yesterday after I was done, and gradually braked, until I was confident enough. I then took it to 70+ MPH and stomped on the brake to bring it down to zero. I did this about 7-8 times. I've never felt my truck ever stop better; it almost stops like a small car would. I actually have to be more judicious now compared to before with brake usage, because a light tap is all that's needed; pushing it too hard is enough to slow down the truck really fast (i.e. the brakes are way more responsive now).

I just wonder what is the problem with the banjo bolts not holding up to the torque spec and even not holding up to the crush washers not crushing at all. To me, if I am a tech at a GM dealership, I am calling the mothership right away and telling them "Houston we have a problem". I mean, I know OE parts have issues with quality control from time to time, but a banjo bolt on a brake system not being able to be torqued to spec without yielding seems like a REALLY BIG problem.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,321
Posts
1,865,959
Members
96,913
Latest member
Fidanza27
Top