Front hub assembly replacment difficulty?

[DougAMiller]

In swapping brakes I found slight in and out play in one of our 2008 Tahoe 4wd front hub assemblies. The opposite side had none so it seems that something is up.

The same hub was changed by a repair shop 16,000 miles ago and they charged a whopping $289 for the "superior" part. So much for old famlily friend. Unfortunately it was 3 years ago so I doubt that they will do anything about it now.

Looking on RockAuto (now) that part ranges from $140 to $180 depending on manufacturer, so I know I got a bad deal by the mechanic.

Is it a difficult job replacing the hub assembly? Any foul language skills required?

And if it's do-able by the average back yard mechanic, what brands are best? I think I heard Moog when I was handed the bill for the first one so that might not be worth a second chance.

It's not a difficult job, if you can do brakes you can do this. As others mentioned you do need a 32mm socket for the axle nut. Personally, I highly recommend Timken. Amazon currently has them for $105. I replaced both of mine on the 2005 Tahoe at about 150k miles, it's at 215k now and they feel as good as when I put them on.

** EDIT **
Actually, that price was for the GMT800 hub, apparently the GMT900 is a bit more, like the price range you quoted.

 

[89Suburban]

 

[EddieC]

Seems the first step should be get the large socket and check the tightness of all the related bolts to be sure the movement isn't something simple being overlooked.

 

[EddieC]

Agreed.. I think its only 10? more nuts/bolts.
1 torx on the rotor (if equipped)
2 18mm? on the caliper bracket
1 35mm? on the axle nut
4 15mm? on the back of the hub
and I think one 10mm for the ABS wire. Cant remember for certain.

Its an easy job on the front.
Dont forget to go over all face areas with sandpaper to get rid of rust/grit/grime. Spray all the face areas down with a oil to prevent them from rusting in the future.

Would that possibly be 36 mm socket like in the A-1 Auto video?

 

[swathdiver]

If the spindle nut is original it is a 35mm socket. If a Dorman replacement was used, brassy or gold in color, a 36mm socket is needed. It is SOP to replace these and torque to 177 foot pounds and not till it feels right or you'll be replacing the hub again.

The bolts that secure the hub to the knuckle are torqued to 133 foot pounds. I have all the tools, tips and torque specs on my build page, "Useless Information".

Timken is now or was at one time the OE supplier for these hubs. SP500301 is your number.

 

[Sparksalot]

I did both of the twins, using Timken SP500301 units. The first time, on theothertwin, I was also doing the sway bar links, so it took longer. When I did thecopcar, I did both hubs and had my tools put away in two hours.

 

[EddieC]

Got one report of removal difficulty here. Anyone else?
Is there a puller that might save therapy money?

 

[89Suburban]

Got one report of removal difficulty here. Anyone else?
Is there a puller that might save therapy money?

LOL sorry my man. Disregard my post. You be ok.

 

[a4edwin]

I spent 15min with a heavy hammer getting it off. But that was the only not hard but aggravating part. I bought the socket 35mm because I figured eventually I would do the other side.

 

[DougAMiller]

If the spindle nut is original it is a 35mm socket. If a Dorman replacement was used, brassy or gold in color, a 36mm socket is needed. It is SOP to replace these and torque to 177 foot pounds and not till it feels right or you'll be replacing the hub again.

The bolts that secure the hub to the knuckle are torqued to 133 foot pounds. I have all the tools, tips and torque specs on my build page, "Useless Information".

Timken is now or was at one time the OE supplier for these hubs. SP500301 is your number.

I stand corrected, apparently my fingers weren't listening to my brain.