Front hub assembly replacment difficulty?

[Doubeleive]

super easy job, once you have the brakes off the axle nut (if awd/4wd) and 3 more bolts, unplug the abs sensor. done
unless you live in some rust bucket the hub should come right out
if you have any problem breaking the axle nut loose with the brakes off just stick a bar in the hub studs and wedge it against the ground. leverage is your friend use a cheater bar.

 

[EddieC]

Yes, we live in a rust belt and it has affected everyone's vehicles.

 

[swathdiver]

I stand corrected, apparently my fingers weren't listening to my brain.

Don't sweat it. I think the old Montanas and most GM FWD vehicles used a 32mm socket. I have one in my drawer but can't remember why anymore! LOL

 

[swathdiver]

Yes, we live in a rust belt and it has affected everyone's vehicles.

PB Blaster is your friend then!

 

[EddieC]

So, GM vs Timken vs SKF for a hub?

 

[mrike]

I stand corrected, apparently my fingers weren't listening to my brain.

Get the hub from Autozone has a warranty and you can also rent the torque wrench and socket. Keep the cost to a minimum.

 

[mrike]

In swapping brakes I found slight in and out play in one of our 2008 Tahoe 4wd front hub assemblies. The opposite side had none so it seems that something is up.

The same hub was changed by a repair shop 16,000 miles ago and they charged a whopping $289 for the "superior" part. So much for old famlily friend. Unfortunately it was 3 years ago so I doubt that they will do anything about it now.

Looking on RockAuto (now) that part ranges from $140 to $180 depending on manufacturer, so I know I got a bad deal by the mechanic.

Is it a difficult job replacing the hub assembly? Any foul language skills required?

And if it's do-able by the average back yard mechanic, what brands are best? I think I heard Moog when I was handed the bill for the first one so that might not be worth a second chance.

Get the hub from Autozone has a warranty and you can also rent the torque wrench and socket. Keep the cost to a minimum.

 

[Bigshawn]

The worst part of doing these IMHO is if the machined outer collar of the hub is rusted/seized to the knuckle, it can be a real PITA to get off. I had to knock some studs out and use pusher bolts to try and pry mine off and it actually bent the hub flange. After a few hours of spraying penetrating lubricant, prying at it, heating up the knuckle, beating the living **** out of it, I finally got it off. I used never seize installing the new one.

That being said, the urban myth that these bearings won't come apart if you run without an axle shaft earned some merit.

Yep my passenger side hub was a pain. We went thru the same things you did and it wouldn't budge. It was goaded into the knuckle. We got 2 things of mapp gas out and put alot of heat to it and it finally came out but i messed up the knuckle beating on it. When I had to put the drivers side in then it was alot easier and was probably done in 30 mins. The salt here in PA just gets in everything and can turn something simple into a project.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Scale from 1-10?… I’d say a 2 super easy, just torque the fasteners to spec when reassembling and you’ll do just fine.

 

[Doubeleive]

So, GM vs Timken vs SKF for a hub?

both have made bearings for gm in the past so any of the 3 is fine, you may find if you order the gm one that it is made by timken or skf when looking at it closely they stamp them.