front wheel bearings - 4WD

[DaveO9]

Should have done this a long time ago, but had the front wheels lifted off the ground for something else today and checked for play at 6:00/12:00. Probably about .1" movement at outer edge of tire. No noise or any other ill effects from the front end, but I'm guessing it's time for replacement?

I looked at several other threads and it sound like everyone just replaces the whole hub as an assembly? Is it ever worth it to just replace the bearings? (I'd probably do R&R on the hubs myself and then get old bearings pressed out/new ones in by a shop or friend I trust) I will use either Timken or Delco either way. Guessing there's a reason everyone just replaces the whole hub.....

Are CV joints customarily done at the same time? My boots seem in good condition and there's no clunking or anything when in 4wd.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, so I assume you really meant (.1"). If it is making no noise, then you can drive on it. Is it original? Now me, I would do both of them and both axles and do Genuine GM all around but then again, I am a thousandaire. So, .1" is less than an 1/8" and IMO, is very drivable when there is no noise. Now I have to ask, How did you check it? yes, I know you said 12:00 and 6:00 but that was by hand/arm strength, I assume. Imagine the pressure that is on that when it is on the ground with full weight on it when turning adding pressure to it and worse the faster you go. So, again, I would replace but the small amount you felt is likely worse under pressure and you just have not heard noise yet. Go about 30-40 mph down a straight flat road and then move steering wheel left and right from about 10 to 2 and listen for noise as you load each side.

 

[B-train]

Agreed with @OR VietVet

If you have any movement when the wheel is off the ground that indicates it's on its way out. The bearings aren't replaceable, just a bolt in hub assembly. Pretty easy job as long as it's not all rusted up.

 

[steiny93]

I did a hub a year ago on a tracked rig. They had about 1/2 inch of slop, was making a lot of noise but we couldn't hear it over the tracks, they are noisy and add a lot of stress to the system. Only 1 hub was bad, other side was fine, didn't do anything to the cv's, they were fine as well. That one has like 200k on it.

.1" seems pretty tight. When you say .1" is it slop or is it flex (a bad bearing will have some play/slop vs the wheel flexing when you pull on it, if that makes any sense)? Are they both the same? If they are the same it probably isn't a bearing, they tend to go out separately and not the same rate.

I personally wouldn't get to aggressive on dropping in new bits, with these type of miles it becomes never ending pretty quick.

 

[Fubar0715]

Agreed with @OR VietVet

If you have any movement when the wheel is off the ground that indicates it's on its way out. The bearings aren't replaceable, just a bolt in hub assembly. Pretty easy job as long as it's not all rusted up.

2nd the advice...Be sure to do both otherwise, you will be cussing yourself, and wishing you had just bit the bullet and did it all at 1 time. Was hearing a slight noise out of mine a year ago, replaced both with GM units although the driver side had been replaced by PO (Border Patrol) with something from Autozone.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Should have done this a long time ago, but had the front wheels lifted off the ground for something else today and checked for play at 6:00/12:00. Probably about .1" movement at outer edge of tire. No noise or any other ill effects from the front end, but I'm guessing it's time for replacement?

I looked at several other threads and it sound like everyone just replaces the whole hub as an assembly? Is it ever worth it to just replace the bearings? (I'd probably do R&R on the hubs myself and then get old bearings pressed out/new ones in by a shop or friend I trust) I will use either Timken or Delco either way. Guessing there's a reason everyone just replaces the whole hub.....

Are CV joints customarily done at the same time? My boots seem in good condition and there's no clunking or anything when in 4wd.

Make sure to get some quality timken or kryptonite heavy duty hub assembly’s if you plan on keeping it so you don’t wind up doing it again 50,000 miles later

 

[DaveO9]

I did a hub a year ago on a tracked rig. They had about 1/2 inch of slop, was making a lot of noise but we couldn't hear it over the tracks, they are noisy and add a lot of stress to the system. Only 1 hub was bad, other side was fine, didn't do anything to the cv's, they were fine as well. That one has like 200k on it.

.1" seems pretty tight. When you say .1" is it slop or is it flex (a bad bearing will have some play/slop vs the wheel flexing when you pull on it, if that makes any sense)? Are they both the same? If they are the same it probably isn't a bearing, they tend to go out separately and not the same rate.

I personally wouldn't get to aggressive on dropping in new bits, with these type of miles it becomes never ending pretty quick.

Both fronts are the same. I'm wondering if it's actually ball joints. I didn't do a great job checking play by pulling at 9 and 3, but did seem tighter in that direction. I'm with you on dropping in new parts on these rigs. Things will fail, but trying to second guess what they are before they do is a fools errand. I'll take the added risk vs a $600 car payment any day. Just have to be willing and able to fix stuff as it starts to go.

Make sure to get some quality timken or kryptonite heavy duty hub assembly’s if you plan on keeping it so you don’t wind up doing it again 50,000 miles later

I'm not seeing Kryptonites as an option on RA? They do have Mevotech as an option, 3 different grades and the highest one is still cheaper than standard Timken. I saw Mevotech pop up on another thread with that being listed as a good option.

Thanks for everyone's input and advice. I'm going to do a little more checking on this before I buy parts, but will report back here what I find and do.

 

[OR VietVet]

Timken or GM is the way to go. Don't go cheap or you will regret.

 

[avalonandl]

I did both hubs from Timken bought on ebay

 

[Doubeleive]

I was going to recommend oreillly's for the hubs because they had the best price, but that's gone up, they were $177 now they are $268
so amazon wins at a best price of $96.82 for oem.
just be aware the abs connector plastic tends to get smashed in shipping, happens all the time. if your old sensor is still good then you can swap it in if one arrives smashed

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-FW346-Original-Equipment-Assembly/dp/B07FZFJ61G/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2MX3EH6RJXMF0&keywords=fw346&qid=1686666003&sprefix=fw346%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-1