Georgia Mountain Rough duty Tahoe. The struggle is real.

[swathdiver]

The gm is 35, the replacement dorman is 36. The torque I think is 130 or 140.

You're right! Thanks for the correction Nate!

 

[OneofFew]

Thanks for the recommendations.

 

[OneofFew]

Some things I am going to have to figure out is the mess that is the driver door.... Hinges are shot, the small straight piece that goes between the hinges and slides into the door is missing and the interior lights only come on sometimes when you open the door... Also there is an un-fused hot wire going into the door. Why is it complete idiots have to mess with wiring?? The driver door panel is a complete loss LOL
I might just go visit the junk yard today.
I am guessing the hinge unbolts from the body by removing interior trim?

 

[OneofFew]

I managed to fix my mode door for the a/c- It was not switching from defrost. I found that the mechanism was sticking. with a little help it overcame its predicament and decided to cooperate again. If I run across a mode actuator, Ill put it on my shelf just in case.

 

[Da90]

Post some pics of the rebuild.


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[Rocket Man]

Pics or it didn't happen....

 

[OneofFew]

Ok, ok, I will get some pics uploaded today.
The rear brake hard line from the ABS to the splitter at the rear axle is actually a real pain. pulling a tank is bad enough in itself, especially if you have to do it on the ground. I will end up doing a 'How-to' on that. You cannot get around flaring your own lines and the flaring set I borrowed was worn out. Steel lines are not easy to flare and will slip in the flaring bar unless the bar is new and grippy. I would recommend anyone looking to tackle this to use easybend line bought in a roll of 25ft.

The fan clutch was replaced with a Hayden premium unit. The fan clutch tool the AP store loans out is useless for a 5.3L, you need the water pump locking tool that has pins that correspond with holes in the water pump pulley and a big adjustible wrench or 36mm wrench.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Sub'd for the progress.

 

[Rocket Man]

Ok, ok, I will get some pics uploaded today.
The rear brake hard line from the ABS to the splitter at the rear axle is actually a real pain. pulling a tank is bad enough in itself, especially if you have to do it on the ground. I will end up doing a 'How-to' on that. You cannot get around flaring your own lines and the flaring set I borrowed was worn out. Steel lines are not easy to flare and will slip in the flaring bar unless the bar is new and grippy. I would recommend anyone looking to tackle this to use easybend line bought in a roll of 25ft.

The fan clutch was replaced with a Hayden premium unit. The fan clutch tool the AP store loans out is useless for a 5.3L, you need the water pump locking tool that has pins that correspond with holes in the water pump pulley and a big adjustible wrench or 36mm wrench.

I used a big set of c-clamp vise grips and it was easy.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Ok, ok, I will get some pics uploaded today.
The rear brake hard line from the ABS to the splitter at the rear axle is actually a real pain. pulling a tank is bad enough in itself, especially if you have to do it on the ground. I will end up doing a 'How-to' on that. You cannot get around flaring your own lines and the flaring set I borrowed was worn out. Steel lines are not easy to flare and will slip in the flaring bar unless the bar is new and grippy. I would recommend anyone looking to tackle this to use easybend line bought in a roll of 25ft.

The fan clutch was replaced with a Hayden premium unit. The fan clutch tool the AP store loans out is useless for a 5.3L, you need the water pump locking tool that has pins that correspond with holes in the water pump pulley and a big adjustible wrench or 36mm wrench.

Very interested in your progress. There is one good youtube of how to get that brake line in there without dropping the tank.