Get a catch can before any mods.

[iamdub]

I just remembered- I think I picked up a couple of 5/16" hose barbs adapters from Home Depot instead of using the ones that come with the catch can. The ones that come with it are big- like 3/8". It was easier to get the smaller barbs and use a regular-sized hose that fit on the PCV and valve cover ports.

 

[donjetman]

Use a stainless steel pot scrubber from the local grocery store, not steel wool.

 

[iamdub]

Use a stainless steel pot scrubber from the local grocery store, not steel wool.

Correct. I copied a pic link but forgot to post it:

 

[08grey]

You can get a copper chore boy sponge at any store and it will work perfect.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

 

[iamdub]

Had my bro send me pics.


Simple flat bar bracket. I think 5.5" OC was the distance I settled on. I didn't want it to be too long and have unnecessary leverage since it was held in position by the friction of one bolt:




Stainless scrub pad in position:




Cramming it in to close it up:




Added ports and drain valve:

 

[iamdub]

I wanted a close-up pic of the washer I used on the alternator bracket, but you can get an idea here. I drilled the hole in the flat bar to fit over the threaded insert that's in the alternator bracket so the bolt would clamp as normal. I used a 1/2" lock washer (gold-colored grade 8 in the pic) behind the flat bar to fill in the gap from the surface of the alt. bracket to the back of the flat bar:





Final position. There's more space under it than what appears in this pic. A small plastic Dixie cup fits just fine:



Hose routing. Them being "crossed" isn't bad at all. It'd just be a little cleaner if the inlet and outlet ports were swapped. No clamps were needed as the hose was a super tight fit. I used a little KROIL to help them slide onto the barbs and PCV port. Had to be very careful with the PCV port since it's plastic and easily breaks. I cut the factory hose off surgical-like with a razor knife.

 

[Rocket Man]

I wanted a close-up pic of the washer I used on the alternator bracket, but you can get an idea here. I drilled the hole in the flat bar to it over the threaded insert that's in the alternator bracket so the bolt would clamp as normal. I used a 1/2" lock washer (gold-colored grade 8 in the pic) behind the flat bar to fill in the gap from the surface of the alt. bracket to the back of the flat bar:


View attachment 225852


Final position. There's more space under it than what appears in this pic. A small plastic Dixie cup fits just fine:

View attachment 225851

Hose routing. Them being "crossed" isn't bad at all. It'd just be a little cleaner if the inlet and outlet ports were swapped. No clamps were needed as the hose was a super tight fit. I used a little KROIL to help them slide onto the barbs and PCV port. Had to be very careful with the PCV port since it's plastic and easily breaks. I cut the factory hose off surgical-like with a razor knife.

View attachment 225853

Nice job Chris.

 

[Larryjb]

Thanks for the informative reply. I think I’m gonna order this one tonight:

Tasan Racing Universal Aluminum Baffled 2-Port Oil Catch Can/Tank/Air-Oil Separtor Black + Oil Drain **** Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KK81KMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tYagDbR9E4V21

Basically the only other things I’d need to get would be some extra fuel line, a little steel wool, and possibly some metal clamps, right?

As far as the steel wool, do I just stick that in the bottom of the can? Is there any danger of the steel wool degrading and little pieces getting sucked into the intake?

Keep in mind steel wool rusts. A stainless steel scrub pad would be a better choice.

 

[iamdub]

Nice job Chris.

Thanks, Mark!

 

[BG1988]

Do i need a catch can

No oil consumption
after 2950 miles
how would i even connect one when i don't even know where it is LFA engine

Im curious what that procedure is

His engine identifies as a diesel