Getting Bilstein 5100's for front. Is upgrading rear shocks even worth it?

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Captain Insaino

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It was getting a little sketchy for me driving at the 80 mph speed limit with a strong head wind. But I also have the shortest PPV air dam, maybe that was making my combination less drivable.
To be honest, I probably haven't gone over 70-75 yet. Taking a week long road trip around the Sierras starting tomorrow under a variety of conditions. I really like the current look and plan to raise the rear an inch with Bilstein springs and shocks. Maybe toss in some poly swaybar endlink bushings front and rear to stiffen it up a little. (was noticable in my Camaro before I upgraded to monster sways). I hate the rear rebound and sway of the Nivomats. I would hate to drop it back down. I appreciate the heads up. I'll report back.
 
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sd172

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If you are planning to maintain a *slight* rake with the raised rear you are golden. I think in a bigger scheme of things that's what is making the aerodynamics work as designed. My suspension options are more limited because I am planning to keep the stock air level and my Great Dane pup doesn't need any more barriers to get in and out.
Good luck on your trip and remember to have fun!
 
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Captain Insaino

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After taking a long road trip around the Sierras for a week, with every on road and off road condition you can imagine, these shocks with the level were everything I hoped they could be. Stable confident driving at all speeds and far superior to the stockers. Even washboard dirt roads, potholes, the occasional rock, road construction, etc. The rear nivomats rebound twice on every event which leads me to believe they are just blown out despite the previous owners claims of being recently replaced.

So back to the original question in this post title. I know nivomats are expensive, but I like the idea of self levelers. Is anyone actually happy with a fresh set of these shocks? I seriously dislike the rebound and boat rock with mine. Is this something inherent with this shock style or do you think new ones will cure it? I'll be adding 1" spacers.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Just to close out this thread, I did NOT have Nivomats for rear shocks. (durr)
Replacing the rears was definitely worth it. The difference is night and day with 5100's all the way around, just like all of the other posts brag about.
 

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Just to close out this thread, I did NOT have Nivomats for rear shocks. (durr)
Replacing the rears was definitely worth it. The difference is night and day with 5100's all the way around, just like all of the other posts brag about.
did you use a spacer with the 5100s - or do they raise the rear by themselves?
 
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did you use a spacer with the 5100s - or do they raise the rear by themselves?
The shocks themselves just allow for an extra inch of travel internally. You still need spacers or taller springs for a lift. The Chevy dealer finally got my insulators in so I’ll be putting 1 inch spacers in this weekend.
 
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Just to close out this thread, I did NOT have Nivomats for rear shocks. (durr)
Replacing the rears was definitely worth it. The difference is night and day with 5100's all the way around, just like all of the other posts brag about.
So exactly what rear shocks DID you have? Were they self leveling or just regular shocks since you replaced them with 5100’s and didn’t mention anything about eliminating Autoride?
 
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So it turns out I had regular shocks. No air or auto/self level. 2015+ ZW7 code "premium smooth ride" that does NOT have the accompanying G65 code does NOT have Nivomats. 2015+ may not even have them at all. Can't verify, though. A quick visual under the truck should tell you. Nivomats are girthier than a regular shock.
 
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Finally done. Now it’s 1 inch higher in the back than the front with the 1 inch spacer and new insulators ( a 1.5 inch net gain ) I expect it to settle a little bit based on how pancaked the old spring insulators were. The bottom ones were almost worn through. Tops weren’t bad.
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