GM 6L80 Transmission Information Thread

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89Suburban

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I agree w/the shop in that putting a new TC on a 197k trans isn't the best way to go...

At 197k, I'd yank it out for overhaul if you are in good position, financially and logistically to have the work done now. If you want to save money and you have a 2WD, you can pull that 6L80 out yourself in about a half hour-40 minutes. Just make sure you're on a level surface, vehicle on all four jack stands (6 tons each) and something to lower and raise the trans back into position (most use a floor jack though you can buy a trans jack which makes the job a lot more efficient).

Alternatively you can drive it until it croaks but may do some damage to hard parts...The major hard part that you don't want to do damage to is the rear planetary carrier set, which is a Ravigneaux design and can be somewhat expensive to replace. The torque converters are pieces of ***** and must be replaced with a converter that features a clutch that's at least .050" (my stuff gets a .070 thick Borg Warner high energy converter clutch, except for real HP stuff which sees a multi-disc converter w/a billet cover. So next time you talk to him, find out what converters he uses and how thick the converter clutch is that comes inside.

I'd also consider replacing your radiator unless it has been replaced within the past 50k or so (buy an OEM GM part, no aftermarket radiators) - the last thing you need is for the internal transmission cooler to fail and leak water into the case under high pressure. That would be catastrophic and require you to literally order a brand new transmission (or find another core and rebuild that one). Flush the lines also (shop will do this if they are doing the removal and reinstallation).

I'd say it's highly unlikely your current transmission was swapped at any point in the past but anything is possible.
Thanks Nick!
 
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NickTransmissions

NickTransmissions

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I have a 2012 Tahoe at 96k miles should i have the dealer do a reverse flush or change filter and fluid instead?
Drop the pan so you can see what's at the bottom of it and the condition of the fluid and filter....The filters can sometimes crack at the neck though you'd know it if that was the case with yours...nevertheless, it's good to get eyes-on when it comes to that stuff...From there you can flush or just do a partial fluid change...The best way to go is to drop the pan first, then assuming nothing concerning is observed, replace the filter (or if yours is 'ok', re-use it) but I'd cut the old one open to see if anything is in there that shouldn't be (larger bits of metal, bushing material, etc).

Then give it a full flush/reverse flush.
 

blackelky

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Drop the pan so you can see what's at the bottom of it and the condition of the fluid and filter....The filters can sometimes crack at the neck though you'd know it if that was the case with yours...nevertheless, it's good to get eyes-on when it comes to that stuff...From there you can flush or just do a partial fluid change...The best way to go is to drop the pan first, then assuming nothing concerning is observed, replace the filter (or if yours is 'ok', re-use it) but I'd cut the old one open to see if anything is in there that shouldn't be (larger bits of metal, bushing material, etc).

Then give it a full flush/reverse flush.
Alright thanks. I'll change the filter myself and then take it for the full flush later. Unless you're near Jersey you can do it lol
 

DaveO9

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I agree w/the shop in that putting a new TC on a 197k trans isn't the best way to go...

At 197k, I'd yank it out for overhaul if you are in good position, financially and logistically to have the work done now. If you want to save money and you have a 2WD, you can pull that 6L80 out yourself in about a half hour-40 minutes. Just make sure you're on a level surface, vehicle on all four jack stands (6 tons each) and something to lower and raise the trans back into position (most use a floor jack though you can buy a trans jack which makes the job a lot more efficient).

Alternatively you can drive it until it croaks but may do some damage to hard parts...The major hard part that you don't want to do damage to is the rear planetary carrier set, which is a Ravigneaux design and can be somewhat expensive to replace. The torque converters are pieces of ***** and must be replaced with a converter that features a clutch that's at least .050" (my stuff gets a .070 thick Borg Warner high energy converter clutch, except for real HP stuff which sees a multi-disc converter w/a billet cover. So next time you talk to him, find out what converters he uses and how thick the converter clutch is that comes inside.

I'd also consider replacing your radiator unless it has been replaced within the past 50k or so (buy an OEM GM part, no aftermarket radiators) - the last thing you need is for the internal transmission cooler to fail and leak water into the case under high pressure. That would be catastrophic and require you to literally order a brand new transmission (or find another core and rebuild that one). Flush the lines also (shop will do this if they are doing the removal and reinstallation).

I'd say it's highly unlikely your current transmission was swapped at any point in the past but anything is possible.

Thank you, Nick. Mine is 4wd, but the trans removal doesn't scare me too much. I pulled the 4L80e from my 91 burb without too much trouble. Have one of those scissor lift style trans jacks from HF. Getting the y-pipe out of the way may be the most challenging part.

The shop quoted me a full rebuild for $6700 + WA tax. Too rich for my blood at this time. They do put in all the goodies, I'm confident about that, and build their own upgraded converters. I'd go GM, Jasper, or Precision reman units before I do that, though. Also might consider buying a wrecked truck with lower miles, use the trans with upgraded converter and sonnax upgrades. (I also want to re-gear from 3.08 to 3.42, so I'd look for one with the lower ratio) Part out the rest.

One question I have about the GM and other remans. They seem to all come with converters included. But everyone says the OEM converters suck. Has GM upgraded, or can you get an upgraded one included?
 
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NickTransmissions

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Thank you, Nick. Mine is 4wd, but the trans removal doesn't scare me too much. I pulled the 4L80e from my 91 burb without too much trouble. Have one of those scissor lift style trans jacks from HF. Getting the y-pipe out of the way may be the most challenging part.

The shop quoted me a full rebuild for $6700 + WA tax. Too rich for my blood at this time. They do put in all the goodies, I'm confident about that, and build their own upgraded converters. I'd go GM, Jasper, or Precision reman units before I do that, though. Also might consider buying a wrecked truck with lower miles, use the trans with upgraded converter and sonnax upgrades. (I also want to re-gear from 3.08 to 3.42, so I'd look for one with the lower ratio) Part out the rest.

One question I have about the GM and other remans. They seem to all come with converters included. But everyone says the OEM converters suck. Has GM upgraded, or can you get an upgraded one included?
You're welcome, Dave.

Yes, getting the vehicle high enough for Y pipe removal is the key there...

Here's my advice when it comes to remanufactured transmissions vs shop rebuilds: If you have a shop local to you that is competent and well-versed in those transmissions AND they are willing to go over what they do to the transmission (parts and procedures) AND their pricing is in line w/what you'd otherwise pay from a big-box retailer like Jasper or GM as if they also installed the same upgraded parts into their units (which they don't in most cases) then I'd take the shop-rebuilt 6L series transmission ANY DAY OF THE WEEK over a generically spec-ed out reman with minimal to no performance upgrades, unless you're able to specific exactly which upgrades you would like installed and the big box reman company will do it. The TC can be bought separately from the transmission so just acquire one that is built properly (.050-.070 thick high energy converter clutch element).

The GMs and Jaspers of the world offer very few a la carte upgrade options for individually purchased transmissions because that would mean variability and arbitrary uniqueness in their production models...The more models they have to manage and keep running well, the higher the costs the prod and op-ex they will incur and hence, the lower the bottom line. Small, local shops don't have that problem as it's a completely different business, cost flow and pricing models that lends themselves to customer-specific rebuilds. If by 'Precision' you are referring to Richard Crich, he's an independent shop who will do anything you want done to the unit (AFAIK, he's back in business in a new shop in Amarillo but not 100% sure on that).

Off the top of my head, the two primary reasons folks might go with a reman from a large manufacturer is warranty period (often 2-3 years instead of the typical 12 months) and ease of acquisition - you just go to the website or call on the phone, pay and they send it out - no need to engage in dialogue w/shops which can be a pain point for many folks if the shop is staffed with retards or buffoons. GM has a third benefit in the form of its nationwide service center network which is convenient for folks that need to make warranty claims, they can go to the local dealer to get it dealt with.

The shop's $7.6k figure (assuming it includes R&R, line flushing, cooler cleaning and all the standard upgrades/updates that should be installed into those transmissions) is on the higher side of ball park for what you'd expect for a complete trans rebuild and reinstallation. A GM trans is something like $4000-4500 plus another $1200-1500 or so to stab, fill w/fluid and re-set the adapts plus all the other stuff mentioned. So roughly $6000 but the trans just has the stock level parts and any updates from GM (which in many cases is minimal). It will take another grand or so in Sonnax updates to bring the trans to spec plus another couple hundred for a converter...In the end, it works out to roughly what the independent shop would do and cost, give or take a hundred or two...
 

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You're welcome, Dave.

Yes, getting the vehicle high enough for Y pipe removal is the key there...

Here's my advice when it comes to remanufactured transmissions vs shop rebuilds: If you have a shop local to you that is competent and well-versed in those transmissions AND they are willing to go over what they do to the transmission (parts and procedures) AND their pricing is in line w/what you'd otherwise pay from a big-box retailer like Jasper or GM as if they also installed the same upgraded parts into their units (which they don't in most cases) then I'd take the shop-rebuilt 6L series transmission ANY DAY OF THE WEEK over a generically spec-ed out reman with minimal to no performance upgrades, unless you're able to specific exactly which upgrades you would like installed and the big box reman company will do it. The TC can be bought separately from the transmission so just acquire one that is built properly (.050-.070 thick high energy converter clutch element).
Thanks much, Nick! You are very generous with your time in answering questions like mine. I will definitely be keeping your advice in mind. Fortunately I am not in a big hurry since everything is running fine, knock on wood. Unless that changes, I probably won't be doing much on this till spring. I think I will do a pan drop and filter change in the near future, though. And I also should have mentioned this earlier - I will have a local tuner do his magic and turn off AFM, and prevent TC lockup in 1-4. Along with some other things. He did the same thing for me on my '09 with 6L80. All that sound OK?
 
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NickTransmissions

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Thanks much, Nick! You are very generous with your time in answering questions like mine. I will definitely be keeping your advice in mind. Fortunately I am not in a big hurry since everything is running fine, knock on wood. Unless that changes, I probably won't be doing much on this till spring. I think I will do a pan drop and filter change in the near future, though. And I also should have mentioned this earlier - I will have a local tuner do his magic and turn off AFM, and prevent TC lockup in 1-4. Along with some other things. He did the same thing for me on my '09 with 6L80. All that sound OK?
Yep, some of my customers do the same. Just keep trans temps in check and all will be well (it will run better since torque multiplication isnt being cut off in gears 2-4 so soon before the engine has a chance to get into the power band (other than at much higher throttle angles where it shouldn't be locking up anyways...)
 

blackelky

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Thank you, Nick. Mine is 4wd, but the trans removal doesn't scare me too much. I pulled the 4L80e from my 91 burb without too much trouble. Have one of those scissor lift style trans jacks from HF. Getting the y-pipe out of the way may be the most challenging part.

The shop quoted me a full rebuild for $6700 + WA tax. Too rich for my blood at this time. They do put in all the goodies, I'm confident about that, and build their own upgraded converters. I'd go GM, Jasper, or Precision reman units before I do that, though. Also might consider buying a wrecked truck with lower miles, use the trans with upgraded converter and sonnax upgrades. (I also want to re-gear from 3.08 to 3.42, so I'd look for one with the lower ratio) Part out the rest.

One question I have about the GM and other remans. They seem to all come with converters included. But everyone says the OEM converters suck. Has GM upgraded, or can you get an upgraded one included?
Gm has a performance 6l80e for 4700 standard is 3400 on the website. Might save you some at the dealer to price match. Also some chevy dealers have different shop rates the 2 by me are 165 and hour and the other is 220 or something.
 
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