pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Horizontal is preferred
Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
OP
OP
iamdub
Full Access Member
I tried it yesterday and it wrote with no problem. Tried a few changes to make sure it was writing and even tried the Vehicle Controls and Special Functions thing to make and see immediate changes. I did check "Do Not Write" for the TCM since I hadn't made any changes for that. Went for a drive to test my speedometer and I think it's about half a MPH worse. I couldn't be any more accurate with my tire circumference measuring so either there's a discrepancy somewhere in my Tahoe or everyone is just driving faster than their usual fast. I should have a cop laser me.
OP
OP
iamdub
Full Access Member
Just some pics of crap I was looking at. I've heard of bad tuners making the low octane and high octane tables copies of each other, and I'd never suspect mine of doing this, but I wanted to compare them to see the differences. Not that I know what I'm looking at because WTF does "Spark Airmass" have to do with anything? I thought it was an RPM vs. spark timing thing:
Trying to determine how much, if any reduction in TM I had:
Trying to determine how much, if any reduction in TM I had:
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
No idea about the torque management thing.
Your low octane table is definitely more conservative than the high table which is good and safe.
As for the speedo correction use an app to check speed by GPS or find a school zone with one of those things that tells you your speed. Although unless it's 5% off you won't see it at 20mph so you may need to speed through the school zone which is sometimes frowned upon.
What the other half of the high octane table look like? I think I'm only pushing like 22* right now at the top end because I always seem to get a little KR in the 3500-4500 area.
Your low octane table is definitely more conservative than the high table which is good and safe.
As for the speedo correction use an app to check speed by GPS or find a school zone with one of those things that tells you your speed. Although unless it's 5% off you won't see it at 20mph so you may need to speed through the school zone which is sometimes frowned upon.
What the other half of the high octane table look like? I think I'm only pushing like 22* right now at the top end because I always seem to get a little KR in the 3500-4500 area.
OP
OP
iamdub
Full Access Member
What initiated my questioning the speedo was (1) on the way back from the tuner, I was no longer keeping up with the traffic flow when my speedo read 80 and (2) a GPS app (Speedometer) showed 1.5-2mph slower than what my speedo read. Everyone could just be driving faster and I can't certify the accuracy of that app due to all the factors involved. Or, maybe GPS or cell tower triangulation or whatever is more accurate than I imagine?
Using a public "speedometer calibration test" sign is, I mean can be a practical idea! They're usually on even when school's out and some construction zones have similar radars on trailers set up as well. I may just find a bored officer parked at the local community center (somewhat often occurrence) that would enjoy a few minutes of play time.
Lemme post up another pic. Or, should I send you my tune file?
OP
OP
iamdub
Full Access Member
randeez
Full Access Member
ive always heard to do a write entire when you first unlock an ecm. there's thousands of tables beyond what hptuners can change. the idea is to write the entire ecm tune as its interpreted by hptuners. that way when you make changes in hptuners everything you "cannot see" plays nicely. ie if spark in xyz scenario effects table 23432423523.01, if hptuners interprets that table as 23432423523.1 it will cause problems
randeez
Full Access Member
lol, spark airmass is used because you can be doing 6000rpm in neutral with no load, or you can be doing 6000rpm in 4th going 150mph, the load is drastically different. its the value given for the time it takes for the fuel to ignite or someshit. just log it and use it for reference when your making changes
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
What's your cr? I know you went for max quench to avoid kr. might be able to squeeze some more timing out of it.
the 24* around idle is supposed to help with stalling, idk anything about converters but maybe yours flashes right there and can take more timing or something. That low airmass high timing is kinda odd-looking to me but idk anything about gen 4 or autos lol.
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Yeah what he said,Ii know when I lug a trailer from a stop in third the SAM hits cells I couldn't get close to unloaded or in a low gear.
