OP
OP
iamdub
Full Access Member
Got the results from Blackstone a couple weeks ago:
Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Something i want to do a bit after the engine break in ^
I also have my oil filter from the old engine saved in a ziplock bag.
plan is to send a sample from that in as well to see what the metal in the oil consists of.
I also have my oil filter from the old engine saved in a ziplock bag.
plan is to send a sample from that in as well to see what the metal in the oil consists of.
OP
OP
iamdub
Full Access Member
I've been waiting a year to do that oil change and get the UOA! I'm very happy with the results but a little concerned about the iron level. Just slightly concerned. That's why I wrote a bunch of notes about the new parts, all consisting of aluminum and iron. Now I'm anxious for the next oil change and UOA. I'm off to a good start with already putting 2,000 miles on it in the past 5 weeks. I switched to 10W-40 T6 to lower the pressure and pumping losses (free horsepower!).
Do you cut open the filter and get an oil sample or send them a chunk of the filter media? Wouldn't it be contaminated by the case metal when you cut it open?
Now that I think of it, shouldn't the concern be the content of the oil circulating through the engine? What the filter traps and holds is irrelevant, right?
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
well, from what i saw with my old 5.3, tons of material made it right past the filter.
And i was using a quality mobile 1 filter.
the filter media caught the larger stuff, but i was amazed by how much it past the filter.
and i have a little tool to cut the filter open, it's just a gigantic pipe cutter.
for the most part, it "should" move material when cutting, vs actually making metal grit.
the other option is to shove a wire or pick tool in the rubber diaphragm to get some oil to pour out.
The idea is that it was an after thought when i saw the metal
I was totally not expecting to see it again, the filter still has a good amount of oil (i hope).
As for your iron in the oil.
Get some magnets and stick them on your oil filter.
Good option to cut the filter open for the next oil change to see how much it caught.
And i was using a quality mobile 1 filter.
the filter media caught the larger stuff, but i was amazed by how much it past the filter.
and i have a little tool to cut the filter open, it's just a gigantic pipe cutter.
for the most part, it "should" move material when cutting, vs actually making metal grit.
the other option is to shove a wire or pick tool in the rubber diaphragm to get some oil to pour out.
The idea is that it was an after thought when i saw the metal
I was totally not expecting to see it again, the filter still has a good amount of oil (i hope).
As for your iron in the oil.
Get some magnets and stick them on your oil filter.
Good option to cut the filter open for the next oil change to see how much it caught.
From Blackstone:
If you’re taking your sample while changing the oil, let some oil drain before you fill up the bottle. Try not to get either the first or the last oil out of the pan.
If you’re taking your sample while changing the oil, let some oil drain before you fill up the bottle. Try not to get either the first or the last oil out of the pan.
Sam Harris
Supporting Member
Yeah, I’m not sure how much useful information you’d get from having Blackstone analyze the filter contents. Even if you explain it to them, they’re just going to measure the trace elements in it. They’re really setup to gauge the content of the oil flowing freely through the motor.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
At a minimum it might give me an idea if it's bearing material (i suspect its cam bearings).
In the back of my head, there was this time my corvette got vandalized, sand in the fluids etc.
Had he gotten it into the motor oil, it could have done actual damage (no oil fill cap thank god).
So it's mostly peace of mind.
Most of the material i found was not magnetic, it did look like copper/brass, mixed with aluminum if i were to guess.
My theory is that there was some valve train work done on the hoe before i bought it, and the installer nicked the rear cam bearings.
The cam shaft looked fantastic, as did the lifters.
even the little screen filter under the oil pressure sensor was clean.
considering how bad the carbon build up was when i tore down the engine, I'm thinking that the screen should have been pretty dirty.
The engine looked like someone changed the oil when they remembered, or they waited until 0% then still procrastinated mixed with cheap oil at the olé jiffy lube.
It's also possible that when i used some seafoam to clean up the lifter tick that started after i changed the oil loosened crap up
got into the valve train and started wreaking havoc
oil pressure dropped due to a stuck regulator in the pump, etc.
sludge in the pan when i pulled it for the first time.
Like OMG amount.
oh memories!
good times right there.
At least the prior owner(s) took fantastic care of the hoe other than the fluids.
The undercarriage, body, and interior looks absolutely fantastic for the age and the miles.
That's the main reason why i bought this thing.
My gut told me something was up with the engine, didn't help that i caught the seller trying to warm it up before i arrived.
Figured, meh!
So pretty... must have!
I totally figured i had a year or two before i would be replacing the engine.
It ain't nuttin' but copying the factory stuff. No expertise involved, really. If you can change out headlight assemblies and trim pieces, change engine oil, etc., then you can make and install the Big 3. Worst case is you'd have to buy or borrow something to crimp the lugs. You can use crimpers or a hammer style tool.
Example of hammer style: https://www.amazon.com/Compression-Crimping-Terminals-Tech-Team/dp/B0812CDCFD
Soldering isn't necessary. But, if you wanna solder them, you just need a torch, a spool of solder and pliers to hold the lug. I use Vise Grips to better my chances of not dropping the lug when it's full of molten solder.
I use a Coleman propane camp stove fuel tank with a Bernzomatic torch head:
Make a video
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
At a minimum it might give me an idea if it's bearing material (i suspect its cam bearings).
In the back of my head, there was this time my corvette got vandalized, sand in the fluids etc.
Had he gotten it into the motor oil, it could have done actual damage (no oil fill cap thank god).
So it's mostly peace of mind.
Most of the material i found was not magnetic, it did look like copper/brass, mixed with aluminum if i were to guess.
My theory is that there was some valve train work done on the hoe before i bought it, and the installer nicked the rear cam bearings.
The cam shaft looked fantastic, as did the lifters.
even the little screen filter under the oil pressure sensor was clean.
considering how bad the carbon build up was when i tore down the engine, I'm thinking that the screen should have been pretty dirty.
The engine looked like someone changed the oil when they remembered, or they waited until 0% then still procrastinated mixed with cheap oil at the olé jiffy lube.
It's also possible that when i used some seafoam to clean up the lifter tick that started after i changed the oil loosened crap up
got into the valve train and started wreaking havoc
oil pressure dropped due to a stuck regulator in the pump, etc.
sludge in the pan when i pulled it for the first time.
Like OMG amount.
oh memories!
good times right there.
At least the prior owner(s) took fantastic care of the hoe other than the fluids.
The undercarriage, body, and interior looks absolutely fantastic for the age and the miles.
That's the main reason why i bought this thing.
My gut told me something was up with the engine, didn't help that i caught the seller trying to warm it up before i arrived.
Figured, meh!
So pretty... must have!
I totally figured i had a year or two before i would be replacing the engine.
Same thing with my van. They must've never changed the oil, just added to it, and when I used a synthetic blend it knocked a ton of sludge loose. Must've clogged the pushrod, screen etc because my oil pressure eventually went to 0 at idle and it barely moved while driving. It also developed a knock. I had the oil pump replaced and did an oil change with all trans fluid. I just changed the oil with 10w30 and oil pressure is at 80lbs while driving. I used a hv Melling pump. Some people are just dumb when it comes to actual vehicle maintenance.
OP
OP
iamdub
Full Access Member
well, from what i saw with my old 5.3, tons of material made it right past the filter.
And i was using a quality mobile 1 filter.
the filter media caught the larger stuff, but i was amazed by how much it past the filter.
and i have a little tool to cut the filter open, it's just a gigantic pipe cutter.
for the most part, it "should" move material when cutting, vs actually making metal grit.
the other option is to shove a wire or pick tool in the rubber diaphragm to get some oil to pour out.
The idea is that it was an after thought when i saw the metal
I was totally not expecting to see it again, the filter still has a good amount of oil (i hope).
As for your iron in the oil.
Get some magnets and stick them on your oil filter.
Good option to cut the filter open for the next oil change to see how much it caught.
I made a magnetic drain plug that has a 2.5" long magnet on it. I'll see if I can dig up some old hard drive magnets to stick to the filter.
