Growing up doesn't have to suck

[swathdiver]

Yes, because it blocks access to the pan on that side.

And he doesn't want any paint to get on the transmission oil cooler lines either!

 

[George B]

And he doesn't want any paint to get on the transmission oil cooler lines either!

Thats the worst!

 

[George B]

Thats the worst!

Speaking of “Thats the worst!”

 

[wjburken]

Speaking of “Thats the worst!”

I love Tim Hawkins. Saw him perform last winter in Dubuque, IA.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I love Tim Hawkins. Saw him perform last winter in Dubuque, IA.

Never heard of him. Funny dude. Def NOT the worst

 

[pwtr02ss]

As of last night:

Battery disconnected
Oil and coolant drained
Belts removed
Fans removed
Harness completely unplugged
Intake manifold removed
Water pump removed
Alternator removed
Accessory bracket and power steering pump unbolted and moved to side
Starter removed

It'll be ready to come out after the A/C compressor/bracket, mounts and bellhousing are unbolted. I'm gonna see if I can get the top four bellhousing bolts with the heads in place and not through the bottom with all the ratchet extension acrobatics. If it takes too long, I'm pulling the heads. Tonight's goal is to have it on the stand and maybe running the compression test.

View attachment 242167

Thank you for documenting this so well.

 

[iamdub]

Thank you for documenting this so well.

You know how I roll. Since you mentioned it, I really wanted to stay true to Dub style and do a detailed write-up with pics, descriptions and hints. It could be a step-by-step how-to of an AFM delete or broken up into intake manifold R&R, cam R&R, engine R&R, heads R&R, etc. But, I'm working on it a couple hours a night every day after work so time isn't on my side. Then, if I were to make any sort of how-to, there's the hurdle of being limited to five pics per post.

 

[iamdub]

So maybe I missed it. Why are you taking the engine out? Are you having trouble with it?

My first response was gonna be "To get at that #8 spark plug", but Wade beat me to it. I had a good laugh at everyone's replies to your question.

All BS aside, it's primarily for an AFM delete. I've had a lifter cussing me out at startup for over a year now, even with me priming the oil system before startup. It sits for 1-2 weeks at a time, so this surely isn't helping the lifter. I also have a small oil pan gasket leak. GM rates parts such as the oil pump and timing chain for 200,000 miles, so replacing all of those since the cam was coming out was a necessity. Then, if I'm tearing it down this much, I may as well replace all the seals. I'd rather pull the motor to remove the oil pan and rear cover, and it's just easier all around to work on the motor on a stand.


Plus it lets me paint that oil pan without getting overspray on the trans cooler lines.

 

[iamdub]

...Tonight's goal is to have it on the stand and maybe running the compression test.

Goal met:





Made a piñata:





Resting peacefully on the stand:





Lemme see if I can recall the process in order:

Unbolted A/C compressor and bracket and tied it up to the side
Removed motor mount bolts (the three frame side ones on each)
Removed the five bellhousing bolts easily accessible from underneath
Supported the transmission by hammering a split piece of 2x4 between it and the sway bar
Removed the rocker covers
Removed the rockers and rails
Removed the push rods
Removed the head bolts
Removed the heads
Removed the top three remaining bellhousing bolts/studs/nuts
Lifted motor until it's weight was almost completely off the frame and gave it a few tugs and wiggles forward to separate it from the trans
Lifted motor a little, rolled Tahoe back a little, lifted motor a little more, rotated it sideways and pulled it out
Lowered motor and bolted it to the stand


I wasted too much time trying to access the top three bellhousing bolts with all the extensions and wobble socket circus acts, so I defaulted to pulling the heads and removing those nuts and bolts with ratchet wrenches.

The head gaskets stayed in place, so I wiped them down, cleaned out the bolt holes and reinstalled the heads using the original bolts and just torquing them down with my 3/8" impact. Zipped the starter in position, screwed in the compression tester and hit the starter terminals with the jumper cables. I gave each cylinder 6 pumps each. All cylinders were 210-215, and this was on a cold engine sitting on the stand. They all held pressure, too. I thought for sure it'd have a much larger variance and expected #7 to be lower than the others. Nope. All good.

It's hard to believe this is the original engine. I know for sure the VLOM has been replaced (dated 2014) but I don't know about the lifters. I know the oil pan was off, probably to get the AFM relief valve shield. I'm trying to find a date or date code on the block and heads.

 

[iamdub]

The screen under the oil pressure sensor was spotless, just wet with oil:




All the piston tops looked to be equally cruddy. I was expecting the rear two or four, and especially #7 to be noticeably worse:




Cylinder walls looked good. This is #7: