Growing up doesn't have to suck

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Dantheman1540

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I have the high lift version of that cam in my 6.0 and it sounds basically stock even with long tubes and full dual 3" exhaust. Granted it has a massive flopro mufler and "highflow" cats. A buddy has that exact cam in his 2002 5.3 with stock heads and swears hes never driven a more "peppy" GMT800 with 4speed auto. I don't think you will make 400/400 to the wheels but to the crank its possible and I don't think you will lose power anywhere but thats just my opinion
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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I cleaned up the oil pan, front and rear covers, and intake manifold to finish my outside work. Back inside, I went after the oil pump to port it. I practiced on the original pump to get a feel for it and learn what NOT to do.

Removed the step and smoothed the transition on the inlet:

IMG_0936.JPG


I may see if I can round off that left side a little better, but it's really not so necessary since it's the inlet and, therefore, low pressure side. Regardless, this is a huge improvement over stock. I didn't take any "before" pics, but you can Google them if you want. There's a rather obtrusive step just ahead of where the pickup tube ends:
IMG_0937.JPG


The bigger benefit is opening up the outlet and smoothing that transition. It may not look like much here, but compare it side-by-side to stock and you'll see how much better this is. The metal isn't anywhere nearly as rough as the pic makes it appear. I rubbed it with my bare finger trying to convince myself that it needed finer sanding, but it's actually really nice:
IMG_0935.JPG


To round off the evening, I installed the billet oil cooler bypass for that high-performace bypassing action:
IMG_0931.JPG
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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I have the high lift version of that cam in my 6.0 and it sounds basically stock even with long tubes and full dual 3" exhaust. Granted it has a massive flopro mufler and "highflow" cats. A buddy has that exact cam in his 2002 5.3 with stock heads and swears hes never driven a more "peppy" GMT800 with 4speed auto. I don't think you will make 400/400 to the wheels but to the crank its possible and I don't think you will lose power anywhere but thats just my opinion

Cubes eat duration, so this cam would be even smaller for a 6.0 and would seem even more stock-like, as you experience. I'm all after peppiness since this thing feels like a slug off the line and doesn't wake up until around 3,000 RPM. I'm sure most of it is Torque Management in the tune, but there's more low-end to be made with compression, camming, etc. There's no way I'll put 400 to the ground with this setup. My estimate for that was at the crank, assuming I'm starting with an honest 325 crank HP as rated from the factory. Based on my E.T.s and estimated driveline losses, I'd say that it's putting out that rated power, if not more.
 

Dantheman1540

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Oh yeah I know cubes eat duration I think I could have a little more in this 6.0 maybe a 216/220 and still not lose much if any low end which Is why I think you will love that stage 2 especially for the price! By far the compression will be the biggest difference in off idle throttle response IMHO. Motor looks great I love the quality pics!
 

Sam Harris

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Was too busy to touch it Saturday, but had a few hours to hit it on Sunday.

Started by rolling it outside to do the dirty work. Turned the block sideways on the stand, stuck a donut magnet to the AFM towers and tapped the galleys with a 3/8"-16 tap dipped in axle grease. This size is ideal since you don't have to drill them- the galleys are already the right size for this tap and the iron taps really easily. Before I removed the magnet, I slid it in circles around the hole to catch more shavings:

View attachment 242648


Blew the tapped galleys out from the inside with my high-flow blow gun, sprayed them with brake cleaner, then another blast from the gun. When I rolled the engine over to do the other towers, I did so that they faced downward so if there was any speck of loose metal, it would fall out instead of in:
View attachment 242649


Used a razor to scrape off the gasket residues (amidoinitright?):
View attachment 242650


Used plastic buffing wheels, engine degreaser, brake cleaner and compressed air to finish cleaning the mating surfaces and block. I wiped the cylinders and mating surfaces with light oil to prevent flash rust. Sanitary lifter chamber and bores:
View attachment 242651
Lol. Razr
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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Oh yeah I know cubes eat duration I think I could have a little more in this 6.0 maybe a 216/220 and still not lose much if any low end which Is why I think you will love that stage 2 especially for the price! By far the compression will be the biggest difference in off idle throttle response IMHO. Motor looks great I love the quality pics!

Thank you! I'm enjoying finally being able to post quality pics. lol
Up until January 5, I was taking pics with an iPhail 5S. I'm now stretching my amateur cellphotographer skills with an 11.
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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Current small update-

Took a closer look at the oil pump last night and marked some areas I want to improve:

IMG_0966.JPG


Had a service call at an Autozone today so I grabbed a bolt (oil plug) to replace the AFM oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan:

IMG_0989.JPG


I used an aluminum washer instead of the plastic one that came with it:

IMG_0990.JPG


Torqued into place with red Loctite. Looks like it was made for this purpose:

IMG_0991.JPG
 

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