Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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iamdub
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pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
wishful thinking I suppose
OP
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iamdub
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The idea was spawned from finding a way to cover the welded-up holes from removing the roof rack bosses. Painting would be the logical, but most expensive route, although that's likely the ultimate solution. I've always liked the Euro style with the black tops. After welding them up, I'd prime the top and undersides, bodywork the topside smooth, then have it wrapped in gloss black. I might have to do the hood, maybe even just the top of it.
Nice work. There are several vinyl suppliers on ebay that will sell the vinyl to cover the grille bow tie, too. I am kind of lazy though.
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iamdub
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I bet you could stop by a vinyl sign shop, perhaps one that you have done or would do business with, and ask for a scrap "for experimenting purposes". They throw away plenty of scraps when cutting larger pieces. The shop I went to, I've used a couple times for lettering on my work van. I asked for a scrap and all he wanted in return was a good Google review, which I had no reason to not give because they did good and fast work for my lettering.
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iamdub
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Did my Big 3 today. Well, most of it.
Used some 1/0 welding cable, hecho en USA, no less:
Cut the insulation to fit the lug, but not all the way through to avoid cutting any copper:
Clamped the lug in Vice Grips and filled the cavity in front of where the copper would go with solder to remove air space and to secure the tip of the wire in the lug. Crimped with hydraulic tool, added the braided sleeve and secured with heavy-duty adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing:
Attached to the factory terminal for now. This one runs from the battery negative to the frame, under a strut mount nut:
Used some 1/0 welding cable, hecho en USA, no less:
Cut the insulation to fit the lug, but not all the way through to avoid cutting any copper:
Clamped the lug in Vice Grips and filled the cavity in front of where the copper would go with solder to remove air space and to secure the tip of the wire in the lug. Crimped with hydraulic tool, added the braided sleeve and secured with heavy-duty adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing:
Attached to the factory terminal for now. This one runs from the battery negative to the frame, under a strut mount nut:
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Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
^ i ran into a place thwt manufacturers foam.
They have big scrap bins, they were more than happy to sell me some scrap blocks at a significant discount.
I also learned they take their scrap foam, and sell to the company here in utah that sells those gigantic bean bag chairs.
They have big scrap bins, they were more than happy to sell me some scrap blocks at a significant discount.
I also learned they take their scrap foam, and sell to the company here in utah that sells those gigantic bean bag chairs.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Nice. I want to do this--one day.
One man's trash is another man's treasure.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
This 6" one was too short to bother with the mesh, so it's all heat shrink:
It runs from the engine block (at the bolt for the power steering pump bracket) to the frame (under an engine mount bolt):
Copied the factory alternator-to-main fuse cable:
With very minor trimming of the mount on the firewall, the lug fit fine:
Followed the original routing and was even able to slip the terminal boot on after a little squirt of B'laster:
I want to replace the battery terminals with some marine post-to-stud adapters. I'll make the positive lead from the battery to the main fuse when I get those terminals. I'd like to make a starter wire as well.
It runs from the engine block (at the bolt for the power steering pump bracket) to the frame (under an engine mount bolt):
Copied the factory alternator-to-main fuse cable:
With very minor trimming of the mount on the firewall, the lug fit fine:
Followed the original routing and was even able to slip the terminal boot on after a little squirt of B'laster:
I want to replace the battery terminals with some marine post-to-stud adapters. I'll make the positive lead from the battery to the main fuse when I get those terminals. I'd like to make a starter wire as well.
