Gruven heater core T-connectors

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
3,078
Reaction score
3,805
I know I'm being lazy and this is a old thread. but anyone have the part number for the oem gm white and back T's? all I find is the Dorman stuff.
 

89Suburban

Bull in the china shop
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Posts
15,085
Reaction score
41,748
Location
SE PA
I know I'm being lazy and this is a old thread. but anyone have the part number for the oem gm white and back T's? all I find is the Dorman stuff.


There are actually 3 parts. Black is outboard and white is inboard with the 3rd straight black connector plugged onto that. I would do them all because they are all equally prone to failure:




img_4917-jpg.jpg
 

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
3,078
Reaction score
3,805


thank you. that will. make it much easier. I'm guessing you just squeeze the tabs and pull? no tool needed to remove?

it's got 140k on it and a 2011. so yeah it's due for a coolent flush anyways. good time to do it.


thanks again.
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
6,426
Reaction score
15,921
Location
Richmond, VA
thank you. that will. make it much easier. I'm guessing you just squeeze the tabs and pull? no tool needed to remove?

it's got 140k on it and a 2011. so yeah it's due for a coolent flush anyways. good time to do it.


thanks again.
Squeeze the tabs and push in on the hose before you pull. I used a pair of pliers to help me squeeze the tabs.
 

Joseph Garcia

Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Posts
7,340
Reaction score
9,921
Wear gloves when working in that area, as the firewall insulation is quite aggressive, and your hands will itch like H-e-l-l for the next few days.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
132,307
Posts
1,865,717
Members
96,896
Latest member
grass209
Top