redemn93
Full Access Member
wow. im amazed. it runs so much smoother and has a good amount more power. should make towing much better now.
had to replace my fuel pump over the weekend
- Thread starter redemn93
- Start date
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Grocery Getter
A guy with a truck.
was it hard?
tybardy
everyone needs a Hoe
No shit... people need write-ups and pictures, and stories, and details... Help the masses with info man
---------- Post added at 03:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:27 PM ----------
also, what did it cost you in parts and tools (any special tools needed?)
---------- Post added at 03:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:27 PM ----------
also, what did it cost you in parts and tools (any special tools needed?)
redemn93
Full Access Member
well, it isnt hard at all. literally only 2 bolts. i got the pump for free. i work for a leading aftermarket part manufacturer. i got lucky and we had one at the lab. we modeled off a delphi which is $300 in the stores.
i didnt take any pictures but its very straight up. i didnt have time. needed the truck up ASAP to be somewhere. the hardest part was paying $30 for the hold down ring, the piece that hold the module (fuel pump assembly) into the take. no parts stores around here carried it. had to drive 25 miles to a dealer.
Procedure:
1. pray that you have a very little amount of gas when it dies
2. lift the rear of the vehicle and support with jack stands on the frame. if you support the rear end you wont have room to work.
3. at the rear of the tank and above it are the fill line and vent line. disconnect them but not at the tank. you will see another place to disconnect them left than a foot away from the tank. you will need some line on the tank to help drain if necessary. they are held with good old hose clamps.
4. grab a 2x4 that is 2-3' long and a floor jack. place the 2x4 on the jack and center it length wise on the tank. place just a small amount of upward pressure on the tank to support it.
5. remove the 2 straps that hold the tank up. 1 bolt for each.
6. slowly lower the jack. at this time place something to catch any fuel that my drain from the short amount of line coming from the tank. only the rear of the tank will lower. you will see that the front of the tank will be supported by a crossmemeber. thats fine. leave it. once enough fuel has drained out, let the rear of the tank sit on the floor. keep an eye on the fuel lines as the tank lowers. you may need to disconnect them before the tank hits the floor. no special tools needed. just fingers. squeeze the clips and lines should pop off.
7. you will see the pump is held by what seems to be an complicated clamp if you have never seen one before. there will be three fingers sticking up. those are stationary on the tank. they dont move. the hold down plate rotates under those fingers and locks into place. study the fingers and the grooves they fit into for a minute and you will see which way to twist the ring. use a brass punch and a hammer. if you dont have a brass punch USE SOMETHING THAT WONT SPARK...PLEASE. you will see notches to tap the ring and make it turn. mine was rotted. the more i hit is the more it fell apart.
8. once you get it moving, do not remove all the way. vac out any debris first. you dont want it falling in the tank. now remove the ring and module by pulling straight up on the module and twist as needed to get the sending unit float out. if the ring is rotted replace it. just to be safe and easier to remove next time.
9. grab the new pump and reverse the procedure to install. its very straight foward. the most difficult thing is getting the ring off if its as bad as mine.
a few tips. take a break from time to time so you arent breathing fuel vapors the hole time. wear safety glasses. sand will fall from the straps and other places. plus fuel in the eye hurts. trust me. if you find debris on in the module or the strainer is gummed up, pull the tank completely and clean it out completely. thats what killed the pump. mine was clean thankfully. cant afford for my truck to be down for 2 days letting a gas tank dry.
disclaimer: i am not responsable if you blow yourself up. thanks.
i just did this real quick. please forgive any spelling, grammer errors. ill rewrite as needed and place in the tech section when i can.
i didnt take any pictures but its very straight up. i didnt have time. needed the truck up ASAP to be somewhere. the hardest part was paying $30 for the hold down ring, the piece that hold the module (fuel pump assembly) into the take. no parts stores around here carried it. had to drive 25 miles to a dealer.
Procedure:
1. pray that you have a very little amount of gas when it dies
2. lift the rear of the vehicle and support with jack stands on the frame. if you support the rear end you wont have room to work.
3. at the rear of the tank and above it are the fill line and vent line. disconnect them but not at the tank. you will see another place to disconnect them left than a foot away from the tank. you will need some line on the tank to help drain if necessary. they are held with good old hose clamps.
4. grab a 2x4 that is 2-3' long and a floor jack. place the 2x4 on the jack and center it length wise on the tank. place just a small amount of upward pressure on the tank to support it.
5. remove the 2 straps that hold the tank up. 1 bolt for each.
6. slowly lower the jack. at this time place something to catch any fuel that my drain from the short amount of line coming from the tank. only the rear of the tank will lower. you will see that the front of the tank will be supported by a crossmemeber. thats fine. leave it. once enough fuel has drained out, let the rear of the tank sit on the floor. keep an eye on the fuel lines as the tank lowers. you may need to disconnect them before the tank hits the floor. no special tools needed. just fingers. squeeze the clips and lines should pop off.
7. you will see the pump is held by what seems to be an complicated clamp if you have never seen one before. there will be three fingers sticking up. those are stationary on the tank. they dont move. the hold down plate rotates under those fingers and locks into place. study the fingers and the grooves they fit into for a minute and you will see which way to twist the ring. use a brass punch and a hammer. if you dont have a brass punch USE SOMETHING THAT WONT SPARK...PLEASE. you will see notches to tap the ring and make it turn. mine was rotted. the more i hit is the more it fell apart.
8. once you get it moving, do not remove all the way. vac out any debris first. you dont want it falling in the tank. now remove the ring and module by pulling straight up on the module and twist as needed to get the sending unit float out. if the ring is rotted replace it. just to be safe and easier to remove next time.
9. grab the new pump and reverse the procedure to install. its very straight foward. the most difficult thing is getting the ring off if its as bad as mine.
a few tips. take a break from time to time so you arent breathing fuel vapors the hole time. wear safety glasses. sand will fall from the straps and other places. plus fuel in the eye hurts. trust me. if you find debris on in the module or the strainer is gummed up, pull the tank completely and clean it out completely. thats what killed the pump. mine was clean thankfully. cant afford for my truck to be down for 2 days letting a gas tank dry.
disclaimer: i am not responsable if you blow yourself up. thanks.
i just did this real quick. please forgive any spelling, grammer errors. ill rewrite as needed and place in the tech section when i can.
Grocery Getter
A guy with a truck.
Great write up!! Thank you!
redemn93
Full Access Member
thanks. its honestly my first real contribution. about damn time i guess.
Xav8r
Member
Thanks Jason ... that was perfect. I tried to do the r&r in my garage while under a time pressure and was following the Chiltons procedure, i.e. removing the brackets and lines up front et cetera, and got stuck whilst running out of time. I wish I had this write-up then. Don't sweat the spelling and grammer errors ... I'm pretty sure most will appreciate your efforts at helping us out with you knowledge and experience!
zyka1
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2010
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Hay Jason ( or anyone else in the know for that matter) would that bew the same on a Yukon 2000 5.3L 4wd or not. My fuel level sensor is gone. I need to work on mine next weekend.
redemn93
Full Access Member
yes. should be exactly the same from 2000(nbs)-2006. suburban and yukon xl would be similar i would guess. just a larger tank.
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
Bump for me!
---------- Post added at 09:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 PM ----------
Does anyone know off hand how long our fuel pumps should run when you turn the key to the "on" position, one click short of starting the truck? Will it only run until it builds up pressure, or is it a set amount of seconds to prime the system? I've got some diagnosing to do tomorrow, all I know so far is that the fuel pump relay is good!
---------- Post added at 09:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 PM ----------
Does anyone know off hand how long our fuel pumps should run when you turn the key to the "on" position, one click short of starting the truck? Will it only run until it builds up pressure, or is it a set amount of seconds to prime the system? I've got some diagnosing to do tomorrow, all I know so far is that the fuel pump relay is good!
