Have a 2015 PPV with Z56 suspension that I want to replace with a smoother ride suspension

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BlaineBug

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ALSO:
I have the original PPV (police grade) REAR shocks and springs.
If anyone is interested I can give them to you for free, you just pay for the shipping, or if you are in the California Central Coast area you can pick them up for free. Let me know at [email protected]

The PPV front struts would have to be stiffer and also provide a lower stance I believe. They can't just be identical to the civilian truck struts!
 

Vermontasaurus

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UPDATE:
I finally had a chance to take my PPV to the shop to have the new front struts installed.
After a few rides with the new struts installed, we came up to the conclusion that those struts DID NOT make a noticeable difference.
My ride was already smooth with ONLY THE REAR springs and shocks installed, and after the new front struts were installed the ride was almost the same.
So my advise for anyone looking at this post is: Just replace the REAR spring and shocks, it is not worth it to replace the front struts. The new rear springs and shocks made my ride as smooth as it could get. Now we are really happy with our PPV's ride.
I hope this helps anybody out there
UPDATE:
I ended up purchasing the following rear springs since these are cheaper than the "Original OEM" part 23154237 from my previous post.
These ones are

Moog 81071 Coil Spring Set

My understanding is that 81069 are stiffer for pulling trailers, but even though I intend to pull my small boat once in a while I preferred the somother 81071.
I just installed the rear springs and shocks, and my wife is like OMG!! (the Tahoe PPV is my wife's car). With only half of the parts installed is already like night and day in terms of the smoothness of the ride. We had a banging noise somewhere under the plastic cover under the back seat or 3rd row seat that was driving us crazy because it would bounce on every little bump on the road. I've spent a lot of time looking for what that was with no luck. Then studently, with the rear parts installed, that banging noise is GONE! I could not be any happier already. I'm even questioning if I still need the new FRONT parts installed. But since I already have them I will still get them installed. Since the front will need alignment after the installation I decided to have somebody else do the installation and the alignment at the same time for me.
I did install the rear parts myself in one afternoon, it is really easy to do, as long as you have the car high enough for the rear axel to drop down enough so the new springs fit right in. In my case I didn't crank the jack high enough and the tire touched the ground so it didn't allow the axel to drop enough, so I had to use the spring compressor to make the new spring fit in the space (I could have removed the tire, but I didn't). Then for the other side I did lift the car high enough, the axel dropped enough and the new spring went right in. No problem at all.
Just make sure that if the break hoses are not long enough you will have to detach the holder from the axel, so the axel can drop enough.

Another thing that I wanted to mention is that the height at the rear gained about 2.5 inches with the Moog 81071 springs I purchased. I was not intending for that to happen, I was hoping the height would remain the same, but in the end my wife hasn't even noticed the difference in the height, so I'm not going to complain. But just be aware if you don't want your height to change then you need to purchase different springs. I think the shocks are ok either way.

I will post again when I have the front struts installed and see if that gains additional inches in height.

NOTE: When I purchased the rear springs I did notice that the new ones had more coils per spring than the existing ones (about 8 vs 5), but I figured that that was the reason the ride would be smoother since more coils allow the spring to be less rigid and compress more smoothly. Also, the new springs were about 2 inches taller than the old ones when compared uninstalled side to side. I was kind of expecting that the additional coils would compress and keep the car at the same height. However that was not the case and I ended up gaining the 2 inches or so in height.
So I was thinking that if you don't want any additional lift, maybe you have to find springs that are the same height as the old ones.
thank you for this write-up. I have been looking to do the same thing and it’s nice to see someone that pulled it off so I can go the same route. Did
UPDATE:
I ended up purchasing the following rear springs since these are cheaper than the "Original OEM" part 23154237 from my previous post.
These ones are

Moog 81071 Coil Spring Set

My understanding is that 81069 are stiffer for pulling trailers, but even though I intend to pull my small boat once in a while I preferred the somother 81071.
I just installed the rear springs and shocks, and my wife is like OMG!! (the Tahoe PPV is my wife's car). With only half of the parts installed is already like night and day in terms of the smoothness of the ride. We had a banging noise somewhere under the plastic cover under the back seat or 3rd row seat that was driving us crazy because it would bounce on every little bump on the road. I've spent a lot of time looking for what that was with no luck. Then studently, with the rear parts installed, that banging noise is GONE! I could not be any happier already. I'm even questioning if I still need the new FRONT parts installed. But since I already have them I will still get them installed. Since the front will need alignment after the installation I decided to have somebody else do the installation and the alignment at the same time for me.
I did install the rear parts myself in one afternoon, it is really easy to do, as long as you have the car high enough for the rear axel to drop down enough so the new springs fit right in. In my case I didn't crank the jack high enough and the tire touched the ground so it didn't allow the axel to drop enough, so I had to use the spring compressor to make the new spring fit in the space (I could have removed the tire, but I didn't). Then for the other side I did lift the car high enough, the axel dropped enough and the new spring went right in. No problem at all.
Just make sure that if the break hoses are not long enough you will have to detach the holder from the axel, so the axel can drop enough.

Another thing that I wanted to mention is that the height at the rear gained about 2.5 inches with the Moog 81071 springs I purchased. I was not intending for that to happen, I was hoping the height would remain the same, but in the end my wife hasn't even noticed the difference in the height, so I'm not going to complain. But just be aware if you don't want your height to change then you need to purchase different springs. I think the shocks are ok either way.

I will post again when I have the front struts installed and see if that gains additional inches in height.

NOTE: When I purchased the rear springs I did notice that the new ones had more coils per spring than the existing ones (about 8 vs 5), but I figured that that was the reason the ride would be smoother since more coils allow the spring to be less rigid and compress more smoothly. Also, the new springs were about 2 inches taller than the old ones when compared uninstalled side to side. I was kind of expecting that the additional coils would compress and keep the car at the same height. However that was not the case and I ended up gaining the 2 inches or so in height.
So I was thinking that if you don't want any additional lift, maybe you have to find springs that are the same height as the old ones.
Thank you for the write-up. I have been looking to do the same thing, so it’s good to get clarification and see that this works to improve the ride.
Did you have issues with the magneride lights or error codes?
 
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falconK

falconK

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This ppv had no magneride, so no electronics or wires were involved in the install at all.
 

Vermontasaurus

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This ppv had no magneride, so no electronics or wires were involved in the install at all.
Thanks for the response, I missed it somehow.
I have a 2016 PPV with the air ride, or some variation. Is this the same thing? The rear shocks have a small air inlet that connects to an air pump, but no other electronics connected to them. I swapped my rear springs to the Moog 81071 as well, and bought new AC Delco air shocks from Rock Auto. It still rides like a 3500 pickup, stiff as heck.
It handles like a sport car, but I would rather have some sort of happy medium with a softer suspension. Everywhere I look it seems like everyone has a suspension that isdifferent than mine, and I haven’t been able to figure it out.
 

Vermontasaurus

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Thanks for the response, I missed it somehow.
I have a 2016 PPV with the air ride, or some variation. Is this the same thing? The rear shocks have a small air inlet that connects to an air pump, but no other electronics connected to them. I swapped my rear springs to the Moog 81071 as well, and bought new AC Delco air shocks from Rock Auto. It still rides like a 3500 pickup, stiff as heck.
It handles like a sport car, but I would rather have some sort of happy medium with a softer suspension. Everywhere I look it seems like everyone has a suspension that isdifferent than mine, and I haven’t been able to figure it out.
Also, my RPO code is the Z85.
 
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falconK

falconK

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No, my PPV was a 2WD, on the back end I ASSUME will be the same as a 4x4, the front will obviously be different kind of components.
 

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