Help Diagnosing Oil leak

[lspann3525]

Do the AFM Deflector actually help with consumption??

Also does the orientation of the holes on the oil pressure relief valve matter??? I remember when I installed my new oil pan I didnt pay attention to which way the oil holes were aligned on the oil pressure relief valve ??

 

[rdezs]

Doesn't matter which way the holes are oriented. The valve actually exists for AFM equipped engines, to relieve the oil pressure if it reaches something like 65 PSI. 65 and over PSI can damage the solenoid that activates the AFM when it shuts down four cylinders. In theory that should never happen, the pressure relief valve in your oil pump is around 35 PSI with hot oil. But I suppose on a cold engine with cold oil revved up over 2,000 RPM pressure could Spike, hence the extra valve. If you drive it normally until it warms up, meaning you don't drive like Mario andretti on a cold engine... The valve should never open. However, like all such valves, they get week over time and start to bleed off oil pressure. Which is why it's a good idea to replace it when you're doing your o-ring in there. Prolonged bleeding off of pressure is what I suspect led to many people experiencing oil consumption issues, with a steady flow of oil spraying on the cylinder walls below the piston. If you do not have AFM you do not need the valve. GM used the same oil pan across several engines, so it's not unusual to find the valve on an engine where it's not needed.

 

[lspann3525]

Doesn't matter which way the holes are oriented. The valve actually exists for AFM equipped engines, to relieve the oil pressure if it reaches something like 65 PSI. 65 and over PSI can damage the solenoid that activates the AFM when it shuts down four cylinders. In theory that should never happen, the pressure relief valve in your oil pump is around 35 PSI with hot oil. But I suppose on a cold engine with cold oil revved up over 2,000 RPM pressure could Spike, hence the extra valve. If you drive it normally until it warms up, meaning you don't drive like Mario andretti on a cold engine... The valve should never open. However, like all such valves, they get week over time and start to bleed off oil pressure. Which is why it's a good idea to replace it when you're doing your o-ring in there. Prolonged bleeding off of pressure is what I suspect led to many people experiencing oil consumption issues, with a steady flow of oil spraying on the cylinder walls below the piston. If you do not have AFM you do not need the valve. GM used the same oil pan across several engines, so it's not unusual to find the valve on an engine where it's not needed.

I know for sure I have AFM. Im thinking of the doing the Deflector to improve oil consumption

 

[rdezs]

You have 275,000 mi and the AFM/DOD is still functioning? That's impressive in itself.

Oil consumption at that mileage is probably multiple items. Valve guides, valve stem seals, rings, worn pistons and bores. I wouldn't drop the pan to put that deflector on the new oil pressure relief valve. Have you ever seen 65 PSI or higher oil pressure? If not, that valve isn't even opening.

Engines can run a long time in worn out condition. The point it gets to be too much is when it starts messing up your O2 sensors and plugs your catalytic converters. If you don't want to rebuild it, drive it till it won't drive anymore.... Then go shopping.

 

[lspann3525]

Yep switches to v4 at very low speed and cruising on the highway itll go to v4. Im thining the motor had to be replaced. I purchased the truck back in 2018 had 150xxx on it at the time.

I did run the truck a while without AFM working due to the oil pressure switch not working correctly so when I unplugged the sensor the truck stopped going to AFM. But after changing the filter and sensor AFM started back working.

But back to my oil leak I crawled under there again and noticed i may have a little fluid coming from the oil cooler block off plate. When I changed the oil pan I went to a SKP brand and it looks like the gasket SKP uses at the oil cooler block off plate is different than what came off the GM oil pan well they are made of different material. GM gasket is a little metal gasket and the SKP uses a cork/rubber type of gasket.

I removed the gasket from the gm and thought about swapping it to the SKP oil pan to save money but I might as well just buy a new gasket its only 6 bucks but im tired of throwing money away.

 

[rdezs]

Get the felpro gasket. Never had one leaked yet. The OEM style are known to have issues. Put it on with an inch pound torque wrench. I'm thinking of something like 106 inch pounds of torque, equivalent to about 8 ft lb of torque. Too loose or too tight and it will leak.
If somebody over tightened it in the past, that block off piece can warp and it will just keep leaking no matter what you do. They're cheap... Before you attack it I would get a new one just so you know what you have is good.

 

[j91z28d1]

I replaced the gasket twice and still questioned if it was leaking. got one of the billet aluminum plates with the O ring to rule it out. they seal well and are pretty cheap.


of course mine still leaks because it was the oil pan gasket and not the block off, it just looks like it. but at least I ruled it out. cause I'm not changing the oil pan gasket anytime soon. looks like a miserable job. it's already got 160k on it, I'll wait till it eats the valve train and just pull the engine out. reseal the whole thing then.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

I feel your pain, mine's doing it on the drivers side

I just replaced my steering rack for this reason. It’s a known problem.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Like literally just did the oil cooler block off plate gasket, steering rack leak. Must be something in the fuel…