Hide amplifier under console? Where to run power wires?

[91RS]

I'm in the planning stages of potentially getting rid of the crappy Bose. My two main issues are money and space. This thread isn't necessarily about component selection so space is my issue. I searched but I'm not sure if I'm using the right words to find what I was looking for but only found two threads with no pictures.

Since newer amplifiers have gotten so small, I'm pretty sure a 5 channel amplifier can fit in place of the stock Bose amp "under" the console. My main concern with this is there enough airflow/room so the aftermarket amplifier won't overheat. Is there any other place to hide the amplifier that wouldn't involve drilling holes in expensive and/or discontinued interior trim panels?

Also, where does everyone run the power wires inside? Where the big wiring harness goes through on the driver side seems like the easiest place but then the wire has to cross the engine compartment to get there from the battery and then has to go by the parking brake ratchet. What about the ground? I know lots of install places ground to the body but that doesn't seem like that would be the greatest ground unless the ground strap from the engine to the firewall was upgraded. The last two vehicles I've done system's in have had the battery in the trunk which made things so much easier!

 

[Doubeleive]

I will just say your going to be pretty unhappy with replacing that "crappy bose" unless you spend some money on quality component speakers. that's just my 2 cents of input. it's been done over and over and over.
as for power if you plan on upgrading to 0 gauge or something better than the stock wire then you can either run a second battery in the drivers side tray or run wire along the firewall or under the frame and come up under the floor panel, coming direct thru the firewall on the passenger side may be tricky or not possible because the heater core and ac/duct system is all right there under the glove box.
if you plan to just change the Bose amp and nothing else then prepare to be very disappointed it will not sound better it will sound like a tin can speaker system

since I have been down this road on previous trucks I personally just changed the head unit and used the proper adapters to interface with the Bose system dialed in the EQ settings and added a dual 12" box and 4000 watt amp in the rear and it sounds just as good without spending another 2k+ if the space is needed in the back on occasion I can simply unplug the amp and box and pull it out, no harm no foul.

 

[91RS]

I should have been more clear, I will definitely be upgrading the speakers and I'm not intending to use any of the factory wiring. I'm looking at HAT and Audiofrog for some good but cost effective speakers.

I wasn't planning on 0 gauge. I'm considering putting a different amplifier into my car and moving the Digital Designs D5.1000 to the Escalade so that I only have to run one amplifier in the Escalade. Since I've already lost 1/3 of my trunk space in the car to the subwoofer box, it isn't really a big deal to run two amplifiers there. The DD amp only requires 4 gauge wire and I don't see me needing 1000 watts for the subwoofer in an open SUV so that will cut down on the power usage.

 

[Doubeleive]

shouldn't have to worry about overheating there is plenty of air pocket space inside the center console but if it is a concern it would very easy to hook up a variable speed 12v fan (like ones used in a pc) that would make some blow-by air, on the low to med setting there virtually silent and the amp turn on signal would be sufficient power so there would be no need for any kind of relay.

 

[Meccanoble]

Regarding the center console, there is enough ventilation to run an amp. If you take out the stock subwoofer (really only way you will fit anything descent down there), you can fit an amp or 2 depending on sizes. I installed a PPI 900.4 down there which is on the smaller side of amps and have room for a micro amp. I wish I kept record of the dimensions but I believe you have close to 10 inches of width and a good 15-20 inches length to run something without any custom work fitting them. This is still witht he bose amp installed. Bose amp sits under the armrest while you have all that space from cup holders to under the radio for an amp. The bose amp is super short and is able to fit under a bracket that helps keep the center console/arm rest in place. I seen cases where people remove the bracket and are fine with the additional movement you may get from the center console but I was worried it would be too much. If you keep it and remove the bose amp, that gives you very little room for a shallow micro amp. When I drive at night, I tend to have music blasting for long periods of times (hours almost continuously). The amp plays a role with how much abuse it can take but it has done well for me in that location.

Regarding power wire, I received a great recommendation from someone on here which worked wonderfully. Ran power wire on passenger side. drilled a hole on passenger foot well which made for easy install under center console. Wire went right under the battery tray.

 

[91RS]

I guess I neglected to mention that I have an Escalade to my stock Bose amp is gigantic. I was thinking removing the stock sub would give me more room or at least more airspace. The DD D5.1000 is pretty small at 15" x 5" x 2".

So where exactly did you drill the hole? That sounds like that could work, just have to make sure the wire can't rub through on the body.

 

[Wolfbraid]

I guess I neglected to mention that I have an Escalade to my stock Bose amp is gigantic. I was thinking removing the stock sub would give me more room or at least more airspace. The DD D5.1000 is pretty small at 15" x 5" x 2".

So where exactly did you drill the hole? That sounds like that could work, just have to make sure the wire can't rub through on the body.

Definitely put a grommet in any hole you cut.

 

[91RS]

Right but a 4 gauge wire doesn't bend that much so if there is too much pressure it can rub through a grommet or push it out.

I ended up buying some Hybrid Audio Unity components for the front and I'll either run the stock rear speakers off the aftermarket amp for a while or maybe just the front stage only until I have some money for better rear speakers. I'm deciding between an Fi SSD 12" sub or the SSA Icon 12" sub for my car and then the PSI 10" from my car will go in the truck.

 

[bottomline2000]

Right but a 4 gauge wire doesn't bend that much so if there is too much pressure it can rub through a grommet or push it out.

I ended up buying some Hybrid Audio Unity components for the front and I'll either run the stock rear speakers off the aftermarket amp for a while or maybe just the front stage only until I have some money for better rear speakers. I'm deciding between an Fi SSD 12" sub or the SSA Icon 12" sub for my car and then the PSI 10" from my car will go in the truck.

Higher grade power wire can easily bend. I have 0 gauge JL Audio wire and it's like a wet noodle. Welding wire is cheap, but it's stiff as a board..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

 

[91RS]

The power wire I have is Monster Cable. It isn't stiff as a board but I wouldn't call it a wet noodle. I do have some wire from a Kicker install kit I saved from somewhere that is pretty flexible. I plan on running the ground all the way to the battery as well. I said what I said to emphasize safety is key, I'm not interested in my truck going up in flames because of the Bose sounds like garbage!