I was going to try a body ground to see if that would do anything for the whine but the weather was garbage all weekend so I didn't get to it. I have the gain adjusted to the minimum on the tweeter channel right now and the hiss is still there. The only thing I can think of is that the Dynaudio tweeters in my car are 8 ohm and the Stereo Integrity tweeters I'm using in the truck are 4 ohm so they are getting more power. I think my options are to try using a 4 ohm resistor in line with both tweeters to reduce the power they're getting or to try using a small low power 2-channel amplifier to run the tweeters only but then I've got to find the space to mount that.
Hide amplifier under console? Where to run power wires?
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I was going to try a body ground to see if that would do anything for the whine but the weather was garbage all weekend so I didn't get to it. I have the gain adjusted to the minimum on the tweeter channel right now and the hiss is still there. The only thing I can think of is that the Dynaudio tweeters in my car are 8 ohm and the Stereo Integrity tweeters I'm using in the truck are 4 ohm so they are getting more power and maybe I never noticed the hiss when I had this amplifier in my car. I think my options are to try using a 4 ohm resistor in line with both tweeters to reduce the power they're getting or to try using a small low power 2-channel amplifier to run the tweeters only but then I've got to find the space to mount that.
I was going to try a body ground to see if that would do anything for the whine but the weather was garbage all weekend so I didn't get to it. I have the gain adjusted to the minimum on the tweeter channel right now and the hiss is still there. The only thing I can think of is that the Dynaudio tweeters in my car are 8 ohm and the Stereo Integrity tweeters I'm using in the truck are 4 ohm so they are getting more power and maybe I never noticed the hiss when I had this amplifier in my car. I think my options are to try using a 4 ohm resistor in line with both tweeters to reduce the power they're getting or to try using a small low power 2-channel amplifier to run the tweeters only but then I've got to find the space to mount that.
Not completely. I installed 4 ohm resistors on the tweeters which reduced the hissing significantly (not even noticeable now) but I still haven't found a new ground for the amplifier. Another thing I found out is that the DSP and amplifier should be using the same ground and they're not. I'm using the stock subwoofer mounting studs for the amplifier mount so I've either got to figure out some other way to mount the amplifier or drill a hole in the body for a new ground which I'm not keen on doing.
I've kinda put it off because it's been rainy, cold, or both around here lately and after our trip in this truck my wife sat in the back for a while and complained she couldn't hear the sound so I bought a mini amp to run the tweeters so I can run rear speakers so I've also got a find a place to mount that! And I'm going to build a new sub box that will go between the second row seats so all the rear area is usable. I've also got to figure out some sort of distribution block for the positive cable so I can also run the DSP and second amplifier off the same power cable. I've just been focusing on tuning my other vehicle and learning REW. Plus, on our trip the amplifier started popping and going into protection mode occasionally which has now gotten worse and it appears there might be a short somewhere in the speakers so I've started disconnecting them one by one to see which one is causing it.
As far as making this work with the factory radio, and DSP will be required. There would be no point in doing all of this if it couldn't be tuned. Before I did the rough tune on this truck it did not sound very good. After I get my crap sorted out I will be installing a system in my father-in-law's 08 Sierra Denali and we're going to use a Dayton DSP which was very reasonably priced. If you're not worried about rear speakers then it's a good option. The factory radio has 5 channels of output because it can play 5.1 surround sound DVD's so at a minimum you have to use the front speaker outputs and subwoofer outputs from the radio. If you want rear speakers you'll need a DSP capable of six channels of input.
I've kinda put it off because it's been rainy, cold, or both around here lately and after our trip in this truck my wife sat in the back for a while and complained she couldn't hear the sound so I bought a mini amp to run the tweeters so I can run rear speakers so I've also got a find a place to mount that! And I'm going to build a new sub box that will go between the second row seats so all the rear area is usable. I've also got to figure out some sort of distribution block for the positive cable so I can also run the DSP and second amplifier off the same power cable. I've just been focusing on tuning my other vehicle and learning REW. Plus, on our trip the amplifier started popping and going into protection mode occasionally which has now gotten worse and it appears there might be a short somewhere in the speakers so I've started disconnecting them one by one to see which one is causing it.
As far as making this work with the factory radio, and DSP will be required. There would be no point in doing all of this if it couldn't be tuned. Before I did the rough tune on this truck it did not sound very good. After I get my crap sorted out I will be installing a system in my father-in-law's 08 Sierra Denali and we're going to use a Dayton DSP which was very reasonably priced. If you're not worried about rear speakers then it's a good option. The factory radio has 5 channels of output because it can play 5.1 surround sound DVD's so at a minimum you have to use the front speaker outputs and subwoofer outputs from the radio. If you want rear speakers you'll need a DSP capable of six channels of input.
Meccanoble
Full Access Member
I just dont understand the importance of keeping a stock HU. Are all the aftermarket ones that ugly even with the dash kits? The resale value of the car doesnt go up because you kept a stock HU. This isn't a vintage car. Why put all that money and time into such a high end system upgrading everything else but not touching the brains of the operation? Thats like eating right, getting fit in the gym. Healthy body, heart, blood flow but still have mental issues. The mind needs attention too 
. This was not going to anyone in this thread, just a general curiosity. Most dont get a DSP. Sound wise, a DSP with stock HU probably sounds better than aftermarket HU with no DSP.
. This was not going to anyone in this thread, just a general curiosity. Most dont get a DSP. Sound wise, a DSP with stock HU probably sounds better than aftermarket HU with no DSP.The aftermarket radios are hideous in my opinion. Maybe not so much in a Tahoe or Yukon but they are disgusting in an Escalade. The available dash kits that you don’t need to cut up the structure behind the radio are terrible looking. The Alpine kit and 8” Alpine radio were the best options as far as looks but they were extremely expensive (like $600 just for the kit and still need the radio) and no longer available. And then adapters are needed to keep the steering wheel controls and chimes etc. It would actually cost me more to use an aftermarket radio because I would have still bought everything I bought and would have still had most of the problems I’m having.
Austinite
Full Access Member
Ok, so I think I'm getting the AX-DSP (as long as the tech I emailed at Axxess says it will work) and I ordered a pretty sweet 10.4" Tesla style Android screen that works with the stock head unit internals somehow. I ordered it though Aliexpress, so it's gonna be like another week, but I'm pretty excited to see it in person.
BourbonNcigars
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Damn. I'd have just paid $20 for some earbuds by now.
Austinite
Full Access Member
I bought a cheap ass Rockville 5 channel amp that I heard good things about. It that has high level inputs and auto signal sensing so the remote turn-on doesn't have to be connected. It fit perfectly where the old subwoofer was. I grounded it to the front bolt that the subwoofer enclosure was mounted to. Just used a wire wheel and drill to get the paint off and it works perfectly. I ran my power close to where you did. I'm just waiting on the DSP now. I'll post some pics later this evening.
BTW, where did you find a wiring diagram for the Bose amp? It took me forever to find anything close, and I'm still not positive that it's right. And you said you tapped into the wiring after the Bose amp?
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