High and low beam upgrades

[Jnull]

I’ve read a lot of threads on headlight upgrades but most of them are older so I was hoping to get some current opinions on the best plug and play high and low beam upgrades for factory housings.

My suburban is a 16 LT so I assume it had halogen bulbs and it had worse factory lights then my 16 ram 3500 which I didn’t think was possible. I’ve seen some guys running the new morimoto 2 stroke 3.0s with success but are they worth the cost? Would HIDs be a better upgrade for the cost? I know most stayed away from HID high beams in the past because of bulb warm up time but that seems to be less of a problem with current technology.

I have no problems with LEDs but what makes me prefer HIDs is you can get a range of color temperatures where LED bulbs are mostly 6k and higher. I prefer 4-5k that’s a big reason most of my auxiliary lighting on various trucks is baja designs.

 

[CMoore711]

If I didn’t have factory HID in my ‘15 Denali low beams I would without a doubt put the Morimoto 2 stroke 3.0 in for low beam halogen projectors.

For the exact reason of your concern; The Morimotos are more 5-5500K color. They are more of a pure white than any blue.

Also, they’re cooling fan system is genius, putting the hot hair into projector/housing generating similar heat of halogen bulbs in the headlight lense is key for keeping the headlight lense clear for snow/ice conditions.

I currently have them in my high beams and they match my OSRAM CBI low beam HID’s very well, which I would describe as a 5-5500K color.

 

[Jnull]

Good info thanks. That’s the only reason I’m considering the morimotos is due to the warmer color temp. They work well in the high beams as well? That’d be a pretty expensive setup running 2 sets of em.

 

[adventurenali92]

If I didn’t have factory HID in my ‘15 Denali low beams I would without a doubt put the Morimoto 2 stroke 3.0 in for low beam halogen projectors.

For the exact reason of your concern; The Morimotos are more 5-5500K color. They are more of a pure white than any blue.

Also, they’re cooling fan system is genius, putting the hot hair into projector/housing generating similar heat of halogen bulbs in the headlight lense is key for keeping the headlight lense clear for snow/ice conditions.

I currently have them in my high beams and they match my OSRAM CBI low beam HID’s very well, which I would describe as a 5-5500K color.

You make a great point about the LED cooling fans and the snow/ice conditions! Though my truck is a GMT800, I am running LEDs in my low beam projector, and high beam reflectors in Denali housings. And the LEDs run so cool that when it’s snowing or freezing rain, the snow once builds up on my headlight housings and then it blocks the light! No good. Gonna be changing that soon.

 

[CMoore711]

Good info thanks. That’s the only reason I’m considering the morimotos is due to the warmer color temp. They work well in the high beams as well? That’d be a pretty expensive setup running 2 sets of em.

They work very well in the high beams, very happy with the set up.

If you’re not in a rush you may be able to find them cheapest around a holiday; Labor Day, Memorial Day, maybe even Easter? Could probably get for at least 10-15% off.

 

[Jnull]

They work very well in the high beams, very happy with the set up.

If you’re not in a rush you may be able to find them cheapest around a holiday; Labor Day, Memorial Day, maybe even Easter? Could probably get for at least 10-15% off.

Thatd be nice. I wonder if any forum sponsors sell them

 

[STORMIN08]

check out the morimoto 2 stoke 3.0, i can express what a HUGE DIFFEENCE they made over stock halogen in a projector...

they have a unique designed fan that helps heat the housing as well.
Here is a LOW BEAM ONLY shot

 

[Jnull]

I saw you post about them in another thread, did you do anything to the high beams? Were these plug n play?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

If you go with the LED option, I recommend that you make sure that you get adjustable LEDs. The LED light pattern is totally dependent upon the position of the the LEDs in the truck's light housing, after insertion and locking into place. While it would seem logical that any LED recommended/selected by the seller for your truck would in fact be properly aligned after insertion and locking, the reality is that this is often not the case. The LEDs need to be as close to the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions (the stick upon which the LEDs are mounted need to be as close to vertical as possible), after insertion and locking.

An adjustable LED allows you to rotate the stick upon which the LEDs are mounted within the LED outer housing that inserts into the truck's light housing. This way, you can ensure that you have the correct position of the LEDs, and hence, the optimal light pattern.

 

[Jnull]

If you go with the LED option, I recommend that you make sure that you get adjustable LEDs. The LED light pattern is totally dependent upon the position of the the LEDs in the truck's light housing, after insertion and locking into place. While it would seem logical that any LED recommended/selected by the seller for your truck would in fact be properly aligned after insertion and locking, the reality is that this is often not the case. The LEDs need to be as close to the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions (the stick upon which the LEDs are mounted need to be as close to vertical as possible), after insertion and locking.

An adjustable LED allows you to rotate the stick upon which the LEDs are mounted within the LED outer housing that inserts into the truck's light housing. This way, you can ensure that you have the correct position of the LEDs, and hence, the optimal light pattern.

If I went LED it’d be the 2 stroke 3.0 and they’re adjustable.