I can't answer on behalf of the OP, but I was thinking of using my set of ZR2 shocks on a 2014-2018 truck build. The Multimatic DSSV dampers are arguably the best passive shocks on the market. Would I remove a fully functional Magneride system on a street cruiser in favor of the Multimatics? No, but I think for an offroad application, especially on a T1XX truck, you'd be hard pressed to find anything better in the ~2-3" lift range at any price. I haven't driven a ZR2/AT4X, but everything I've read says they're the best riding leaf spring offroad oriented trucks available.
I put ZR2 shocks on my Yukon - need advice
- Thread starter Favored
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Perhaps I should have stated mission in the beginning. We live in Colorado Springs, we have a large family and this is our adventure vehicle. We love going into the mountain, nothing extreme as far as trails yet but we definitely do off-road.
AJMBLAZER
Member
How much physically longer are the ZR2 struts vs your OEM Yukon ones?
The ZR2 is 2" taller than a standard T1 pickup, not sure what that equates to in Yukons. I can say my '19 T1 1500 with 2" taller suspension (Bilstein 5100's for a Trail Boss) sits noticeably taller than my wife's '22 Yukon 4wd. Both are taller than the previous generation trucks/SUV's. So I wonder if you're trying to wedge a much taller strut into a smaller space and that is causing this issue? A 2" level strut on a T1 is probably more on a previous generation truck/SUV.
The ZR2 is 2" taller than a standard T1 pickup, not sure what that equates to in Yukons. I can say my '19 T1 1500 with 2" taller suspension (Bilstein 5100's for a Trail Boss) sits noticeably taller than my wife's '22 Yukon 4wd. Both are taller than the previous generation trucks/SUV's. So I wonder if you're trying to wedge a much taller strut into a smaller space and that is causing this issue? A 2" level strut on a T1 is probably more on a previous generation truck/SUV.
The ZR2 rear shocks measure 25-7/16" fully extended and 16" fully compressed (measurements taken from center of mounting holes). The front struts measure 22-7/8" from the top mounting surface to the bottom of the lower mounting stud.
Unfortunately I do not have K2 parts in front of me for comparison.
Unfortunately I do not have K2 parts in front of me for comparison.
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AJMBLAZER
Member
I think there’s the problem. I was just digging around on RockAuto and every front strut for a ‘16ish Tahoe/Yukon measures about 17” extended.
The rears are about the same as the ZR2 Shocks.
Yeah, the T1's certainly have the upper strut mount up higher, and therefore have longer struts for any given ride height.
I think if @Favored has room to bolt the lower strut mount below the A-arm (which supposedly lowers the truck 1.5-2" according to another thread on this forum), he could end up with ~3" lift vs stock, which would allow him to drive the truck and see how it feels.
I think if @Favored has room to bolt the lower strut mount below the A-arm (which supposedly lowers the truck 1.5-2" according to another thread on this forum), he could end up with ~3" lift vs stock, which would allow him to drive the truck and see how it feels.
I’ve made a decision to not go further with the front ZR2 shocks/struts at this time. Likely going to order some Fox 2.0’s for the front and keep the ZR2 rear shocks as they feel great!
Any alternative recommendations vs the Fox’s are welcome but from what I’ve researched they seem to be the way to go for the money and I’m not looking to spend Kings shocks money at the moment.
Any alternative recommendations vs the Fox’s are welcome but from what I’ve researched they seem to be the way to go for the money and I’m not looking to spend Kings shocks money at the moment.
Oh Kee Pah
Full Access Member
@Favored - I personally think you are making a good decision; in the long run hopefully you will look back and think so too. Bravo
I have spent more $ than I would have liked trying to get something to "work" instead of just doing it correct the first time. That's one major reason I ask people what their overall plans/goals for the ride changes are. Over time, better to spend more money and less of your time up front than too much of both down the road "fixing" things or "adjusting" others to make the overall setup work.
Also, I think that our SUVs are more than capable for what you are talking about doing, but they are no rock crawlers. However, they will certainly handle themselves with improved off-road suspension components and larger tires. 33-34" rubber will get you an extra 1" of ground clearance alone. Going too big will eat at the power and your transmission. I have not read of many on the TYForum that have done so, but regearing to 3.73 would probably be the best thing for an off road rig. That opens a whole new can of worms though. Probably best to just work with what you have...
Now that I know you're from CO Springs, I'm definitely vested in helping you get the ride you're looking for. I'm born and bred 5280, bleed orange and blue, just happen to live in Maine the past 9 years..
Since you're looking at Fox, I would suggest researching the remote reservoir coilovers w/ dampening control, as well as the 2.0 IFPs. I have not run a RR, but sounds like many people really like them. I have had BDS techs tell me straight up that the RR are probably overkill. But, if you're running bumpy gravel roads often and for extended periods of time, then the RRs might be well worth the extra $.
If you're raising the front ride height anything more than 1.5", I would suggest looking at a new pair of UCAs suitable for a 1-3" front level. Cognito sells a nice all around kit. Depending on the wheels you run, the aftermarket UCAs could have some rub involved. More research...
Keep us posted how things are progressing and call out for any questions/help! Welcome to the TYForum
Safe Travels
I have spent more $ than I would have liked trying to get something to "work" instead of just doing it correct the first time. That's one major reason I ask people what their overall plans/goals for the ride changes are. Over time, better to spend more money and less of your time up front than too much of both down the road "fixing" things or "adjusting" others to make the overall setup work.
Also, I think that our SUVs are more than capable for what you are talking about doing, but they are no rock crawlers. However, they will certainly handle themselves with improved off-road suspension components and larger tires. 33-34" rubber will get you an extra 1" of ground clearance alone. Going too big will eat at the power and your transmission. I have not read of many on the TYForum that have done so, but regearing to 3.73 would probably be the best thing for an off road rig. That opens a whole new can of worms though. Probably best to just work with what you have...
Now that I know you're from CO Springs, I'm definitely vested in helping you get the ride you're looking for. I'm born and bred 5280, bleed orange and blue, just happen to live in Maine the past 9 years..
Since you're looking at Fox, I would suggest researching the remote reservoir coilovers w/ dampening control, as well as the 2.0 IFPs. I have not run a RR, but sounds like many people really like them. I have had BDS techs tell me straight up that the RR are probably overkill. But, if you're running bumpy gravel roads often and for extended periods of time, then the RRs might be well worth the extra $.
If you're raising the front ride height anything more than 1.5", I would suggest looking at a new pair of UCAs suitable for a 1-3" front level. Cognito sells a nice all around kit. Depending on the wheels you run, the aftermarket UCAs could have some rub involved. More research...
Keep us posted how things are progressing and call out for any questions/help! Welcome to the TYForum
Safe Travels
I can get 2.0 Fox IFP on Amazon for about $950, or Rough Country 2.5 2” lift Vertex RR for about $1,300. Haven’t seen Yukons run those yet but they have some nice reviews on other platforms, what do y’all think between those 2 options, Fox 2.0 or RC 2.5 for $350 more?
AJMBLAZER
Member
Fox.
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