Idea On Cost To Replace 5.3 Engine? 2015 Yukon XL

[tom3]

Zero compression on one cylinder would have to indicate a valve issue - unless there's a big hole in the engine block. Get someone to pull the valve cover and find out what's going on.

 

[adamztrucking]

It sounds like you're in a tough situation with the 2015 Yukon XL. Given the misfire and the 0 PSI compression in cylinder 7, it's understandable that the mechanic recommended replacing the engine, especially with the vehicle already having 207k miles. Here are a few things to consider:

1. Cost of Engine Replacement:
The cost of a new or remanufactured engine for a Yukon can range anywhere from $4,000 to $7,000 or more, depending on the source and labor costs. If you opt for a used engine, you might find a lower price, but you'll have to balance that with the risk of inheriting other problems. Factor in the labor costs on top of that, which can be substantial.

2. Further Diagnosis:
While it's frustrating to keep spending money, getting a second opinion or more thorough diagnosis from a GMC dealer could confirm whether an engine replacement is truly the best option or if there are alternative repairs that could be more cost-effective. This would also give you a clear idea of the total scope of the vehicle's mechanical health, including the transmission.

3. Transmission Concerns:
With 207k miles, the transmission could indeed be a concern in the future, especially if you end up replacing the engine. If you already have doubts about trusting the vehicle, the risk of future transmission issues might reinforce your hesitation about investing further.

4. Trade-In or Sell:
If you feel like you're ready to move on from this vehicle, you could try selling it as-is or trading it in at a dealership, but you'd likely get very little without fixing the engine. Another option would be to sell it privately as a project vehicle for someone who is willing to put in the time and effort to replace the engine themselves.

5. Next Steps:
Given that you're working at a dealership and have some insight into how these situations are handled, you could continue pushing for a more reasonable trade-in or assistance from your "friend" at the dealership. However, if that's not working out, moving on to cut your losses might save you from further financial strain.

In short, you're at a crossroads between investing in the vehicle or moving on. If you're concerned about future issues and feel like it's not worth the risk, letting go now might be the best option. If you decide to move forward with repairs, a clear diagnosis from a dealership could help prevent further surprises.

 

[BringTheNoise]

Best paint that thing yellow cause you got a lemon. And the previous owner is still running from it.

Lol that’s true

 

[BringTheNoise]

It sounds like you're in a tough situation with the 2015 Yukon XL. Given the misfire and the 0 PSI compression in cylinder 7, it's understandable that the mechanic recommended replacing the engine, especially with the vehicle already having 207k miles. Here are a few things to consider:

1. Cost of Engine Replacement:
The cost of a new or remanufactured engine for a Yukon can range anywhere from $4,000 to $7,000 or more, depending on the source and labor costs. If you opt for a used engine, you might find a lower price, but you'll have to balance that with the risk of inheriting other problems. Factor in the labor costs on top of that, which can be substantial.

2. Further Diagnosis:
While it's frustrating to keep spending money, getting a second opinion or more thorough diagnosis from a GMC dealer could confirm whether an engine replacement is truly the best option or if there are alternative repairs that could be more cost-effective. This would also give you a clear idea of the total scope of the vehicle's mechanical health, including the transmission.

3. Transmission Concerns:
With 207k miles, the transmission could indeed be a concern in the future, especially if you end up replacing the engine. If you already have doubts about trusting the vehicle, the risk of future transmission issues might reinforce your hesitation about investing further.

4. Trade-In or Sell:
If you feel like you're ready to move on from this vehicle, you could try selling it as-is or trading it in at a dealership, but you'd likely get very little without fixing the engine. Another option would be to sell it privately as a project vehicle for someone who is willing to put in the time and effort to replace the engine themselves.

5. Next Steps:
Given that you're working at a dealership and have some insight into how these situations are handled, you could continue pushing for a more reasonable trade-in or assistance from your "friend" at the dealership. However, if that's not working out, moving on to cut your losses might save you from further financial strain.

In short, you're at a crossroads between investing in the vehicle or moving on. If you're concerned about future issues and feel like it's not worth the risk, letting go now might be the best option. If you decide to move forward with repairs, a clear diagnosis from a dealership could help prevent further surprises.

Thank You for taking the time to give me such detailed advice. This has been very stressful and these are all great points. I talked to the bank today and a lawyer. It’ll be interesting to see what happens especially with me being an employee. I’m worried they will retaliate against me. At least I know where I stand with the company I guess.

 

[Geotrash]

I'll add some perspective from a longtime owner of these trucks to weigh in your thinking. My first was a 2002 Suburban that now has 310K on it. I know this because I sold it to a friend with 228K on it and he's still driving it every day. Our '07 has 248K, and our '12 has 143K. There are lots of guys here with 350K+ with at least a few here running them past 400K on their original engines, with AFM still active. And lots of examples on the interwebz of these things going well beyond 500K.

Yours looks like a beautiful, well-kept example. It's unfortunate to me that the dealer won't help take care of one of their own, but that's a topic for another day. My guess is that the truck didn't come into the dealer with the problem, but that the timing of the problem developing is just unfortunate. That said, I think it's well worth pulling the valve cover to have a look.

If the engine isn't knocking, then my guess is you have a broken valve spring. You will be able to see this with the valve cover off. If the engine *is* knocking, then I would suspect a collapsed lifter and/or bent pushrod. Both are fixable with the engine in the vehicle if you're at all handy and it hasn't been run too long in that condition. The cam can receive damage and need replacing if so, but that can also be done with the engine in the vehicle. Lots of documentation here from others on how to do this, and plan on a long weekend for a first-timer if you have the tools. If it is indeed just the valve spring and there is no damage to the piston or valve then you can replace the spring without removing the head. A cheap inspection camera can help you decide.

Yes, the transmission will eventually need attention, but that could be 1K or 100K from now - longer if the PO had any work done on it already. But either way, investing some money now to get it back in good running order will net you the best, most comfortable family hauler/road trip cruiser/camping rig on the planet. If I were in your shoes knowing what I know about these, I wouldn't hesitate to invest in it. Check back in here with whatever you decide and we can help you either get through it, or offer perspective on other things worth doing "while you're in there".