Idea On Cost To Replace 5.3 Engine? 2015 Yukon XL

[tom3]

Zero compression on one cylinder would have to indicate a valve issue - unless there's a big hole in the engine block. Get someone to pull the valve cover and find out what's going on.

 

[adamztrucking]

It sounds like you're in a tough situation with the 2015 Yukon XL. Given the misfire and the 0 PSI compression in cylinder 7, it's understandable that the mechanic recommended replacing the engine, especially with the vehicle already having 207k miles. Here are a few things to consider:

1. Cost of Engine Replacement:
The cost of a new or remanufactured engine for a Yukon can range anywhere from $4,000 to $7,000 or more, depending on the source and labor costs. If you opt for a used engine, you might find a lower price, but you'll have to balance that with the risk of inheriting other problems. Factor in the labor costs on top of that, which can be substantial.

2. Further Diagnosis:
While it's frustrating to keep spending money, getting a second opinion or more thorough diagnosis from a GMC dealer could confirm whether an engine replacement is truly the best option or if there are alternative repairs that could be more cost-effective. This would also give you a clear idea of the total scope of the vehicle's mechanical health, including the transmission.

3. Transmission Concerns:
With 207k miles, the transmission could indeed be a concern in the future, especially if you end up replacing the engine. If you already have doubts about trusting the vehicle, the risk of future transmission issues might reinforce your hesitation about investing further.

4. Trade-In or Sell:
If you feel like you're ready to move on from this vehicle, you could try selling it as-is or trading it in at a dealership, but you'd likely get very little without fixing the engine. Another option would be to sell it privately as a project vehicle for someone who is willing to put in the time and effort to replace the engine themselves.

5. Next Steps:
Given that you're working at a dealership and have some insight into how these situations are handled, you could continue pushing for a more reasonable trade-in or assistance from your "friend" at the dealership. However, if that's not working out, moving on to cut your losses might save you from further financial strain.

In short, you're at a crossroads between investing in the vehicle or moving on. If you're concerned about future issues and feel like it's not worth the risk, letting go now might be the best option. If you decide to move forward with repairs, a clear diagnosis from a dealership could help prevent further surprises.

 

[BringTheNoise]

Best paint that thing yellow cause you got a lemon. And the previous owner is still running from it.

Lol that’s true

 

[BringTheNoise]

It sounds like you're in a tough situation with the 2015 Yukon XL. Given the misfire and the 0 PSI compression in cylinder 7, it's understandable that the mechanic recommended replacing the engine, especially with the vehicle already having 207k miles. Here are a few things to consider:

1. Cost of Engine Replacement:
The cost of a new or remanufactured engine for a Yukon can range anywhere from $4,000 to $7,000 or more, depending on the source and labor costs. If you opt for a used engine, you might find a lower price, but you'll have to balance that with the risk of inheriting other problems. Factor in the labor costs on top of that, which can be substantial.

2. Further Diagnosis:
While it's frustrating to keep spending money, getting a second opinion or more thorough diagnosis from a GMC dealer could confirm whether an engine replacement is truly the best option or if there are alternative repairs that could be more cost-effective. This would also give you a clear idea of the total scope of the vehicle's mechanical health, including the transmission.

3. Transmission Concerns:
With 207k miles, the transmission could indeed be a concern in the future, especially if you end up replacing the engine. If you already have doubts about trusting the vehicle, the risk of future transmission issues might reinforce your hesitation about investing further.

4. Trade-In or Sell:
If you feel like you're ready to move on from this vehicle, you could try selling it as-is or trading it in at a dealership, but you'd likely get very little without fixing the engine. Another option would be to sell it privately as a project vehicle for someone who is willing to put in the time and effort to replace the engine themselves.

5. Next Steps:
Given that you're working at a dealership and have some insight into how these situations are handled, you could continue pushing for a more reasonable trade-in or assistance from your "friend" at the dealership. However, if that's not working out, moving on to cut your losses might save you from further financial strain.

In short, you're at a crossroads between investing in the vehicle or moving on. If you're concerned about future issues and feel like it's not worth the risk, letting go now might be the best option. If you decide to move forward with repairs, a clear diagnosis from a dealership could help prevent further surprises.

Thank You for taking the time to give me such detailed advice. This has been very stressful and these are all great points. I talked to the bank today and a lawyer. It’ll be interesting to see what happens especially with me being an employee. I’m worried they will retaliate against me. At least I know where I stand with the company I guess.

 

[Geotrash]

I'll add some perspective from a longtime owner of these trucks to weigh in your thinking. My first was a 2002 Suburban that now has 310K on it. I know this because I sold it to a friend with 228K on it and he's still driving it every day. Our '07 has 248K, and our '12 has 143K. There are lots of guys here with 350K+ with at least a few here running them past 400K on their original engines, with AFM still active. And lots of examples on the interwebz of these things going well beyond 500K.

Yours looks like a beautiful, well-kept example. It's unfortunate to me that the dealer won't help take care of one of their own, but that's a topic for another day. My guess is that the truck didn't come into the dealer with the problem, but that the timing of the problem developing is just unfortunate. That said, I think it's well worth pulling the valve cover to have a look.

If the engine isn't knocking, then my guess is you have a broken valve spring. You will be able to see this with the valve cover off. If the engine *is* knocking, then I would suspect a collapsed lifter and/or bent pushrod. Both are fixable with the engine in the vehicle if you're at all handy and it hasn't been run too long in that condition. The cam can receive damage and need replacing if so, but that can also be done with the engine in the vehicle. Lots of documentation here from others on how to do this, and plan on a long weekend for a first-timer if you have the tools. If it is indeed just the valve spring and there is no damage to the piston or valve then you can replace the spring without removing the head. A cheap inspection camera can help you decide.

Yes, the transmission will eventually need attention, but that could be 1K or 100K from now - longer if the PO had any work done on it already. But either way, investing some money now to get it back in good running order will net you the best, most comfortable family hauler/road trip cruiser/camping rig on the planet. If I were in your shoes knowing what I know about these, I wouldn't hesitate to invest in it. Check back in here with whatever you decide and we can help you either get through it, or offer perspective on other things worth doing "while you're in there".

 

[vcode]

FWIW, my friend just had the engine in her 14 Suburban replaced. $8500 at a local shop. Dealer wanted $11K.

 

[fozzi58]

You need to go to a mechanic that know how to scope the cylinder. If he's worth his mettle, he should be able to see if the valve is open and causing the 0 psi or if there is a hole in the piston.

 

[2015TahoePPV]

#7 is one of the Active Fuel Management cylinders (#1, #7, #4, #6) so you likely have a collapsed lifter there. Take the valve cover off and manually move your rocker arms on that cylinder to confirm (or have a mechanic do it).

Being a couple of months into my engine swap on my Tahoe, I can offer some financial insights.

-There are tools available to "unstick" your lifter, which you could possibly get away with, but you'd have to program out the AFM immediately or you'd be starting over again shortly. This is going to require the removal of the intake/ direct injection/ injectors, and could probably be accomplished for around $1000 or less. I've seen examples of the lifters failing even after being programmed out, so think of this as a temporary solution at best.

-pull the heads/ valve job/ Delete AFM. You're looking at around $5k, but I didn't want to spend $5K on a 200k mile engine.
-lower mile junkyard engine. This would be a complete pull out, then labor to reinstall. A 130K mile engine in my neck of the woods is around $2000, and the local shop that I trust wanted 30 hours of labor (@$100/hr) to do the job, so $5K.

-reman engine. I went this rounte with a deleted reman engine for $4k, and am doing the labor myself.

Either way, you're probably in for a bit of a ride, so buckle up. Good luck!

 

[2015TahoePPV]

Thank You for taking the time to give me such detailed advice. This has been very stressful and these are all great points. I talked to the bank today and a lawyer. It’ll be interesting to see what happens especially with me being an employee. I’m worried they will retaliate against me. At least I know where I stand with the company I guess.

You're going to end up unemployed if you rock the boat on a wholesale purchase from your employer. You won't win.

There's a reason they put "as is" on that stuff, consider this a life lesson and move on. (or at least go out spectacularly, lol)

 

[RET423]

I would check out the driver side head, I think that's where your problem is; if the oil pressure is still strong that is; the leaking injector may have just washed the cylinder wall down & once that's fixed the rings will come back around

This is the kind of rig I buy for nothing because people are afraid to pull heads, but a DOD/VVT delete for the cost of the parts & the head repaired will probably net another 125k out of that engine