I'm the latest victim of busted engine mounts

[TowGMC]

Passenger side was replaced at just under 50,000 but warranty wouldn't pay to do both sides.

So naturally, now that I'm out of warranty by time, but only 71,000 miles, the driver's side is busted. So bad I'm borrowing a Tahoe from a friend to tow my race trailer this weekend so I don't damage my drivetrain any worse.

Here's the kicker, because it's a 6.2, dealer is telling me they have to drop the front diff to replace the driver's side, so the bill is likely to be $800+. I've never owned a vehicle that needed motor mounts sooner than tires.

 

[08grey]

My buddy did my motor mount from the without removing anything paid him $50 and got the mount from rock auto for $45. It's a nuckle buster but not impossible. A lift helps a million. Your just changing a rubber block 800 is crazy. Buy the mount and find a local mechanic that won't **** you.

 

[TowGMC]

I trust my dealer tech, he's never done me wrong. He said he does one of the NNBS mounts a week at the dealership and on the 6.2 with the full time AWD it's more work than in a 5.3 Yukon with the 4WD system. I checked with the tech that does other work on our other cars and he said he can't get to it for a week and I need it done asap or I'll have to skip my next race weekend, can't tow like this.

 

[08grey]

I have a 6.2 awd. 800 is still crazy.

 

[fiatdale]

I don't see why the 6.2 would be any different than the 5.3?

 

[Savage6.2]

I have a 6.2 Denali with full time AWD. I had my driver side replaced and they had to drop the front diff. and the crossmember under the oil pan to raise the motor up. I was charged $358

 

[TowGMC]

Got clarification from my tech yesterday. $800 is for both sides, and includes the synthetic oil change I wanted too. And includes our insane 7.75% IL sales tax.

And yes, the 5.3 can be done without dropping the diff, the 6.2 needs diff and xmember dropped

 

[TowGMC]

Update- all done. 10.8 hours of labor, that's by the book. I stopped by the dealership while they were doing the work, and there's no possible way to change the mount without dropping everything down. I'm used to working on race cars at the track, and always trying to find a quicker way to make a repair when in a time crunch, this isn't one of those jobs where there's a short cut.

 

[ToddEdge]

What were the symptoms of a broken motor mount?

 

[TowGMC]

What were the symptoms of a broken motor mount?

In my case I was hearing and feeling a bad clunk every time I pulled away from a stop. The slip joint issue is similar bur far less severe. And the true test is to pop open the hood, have someone stand alongside the truck, the with your foot firmly on the brake hit the gas pedal quickly for a moment. In my case the engine jumped 3 inches on the drivers side. The noise was the mount hitting the safety cage round the mount that prevents the engine from moving too far.

I guess the safety cage on the mount is an indication that GM kinda knows they have a problem with these mounts?