Input or advice from others on cam swap for 6.2L 2011 Yukon Denali

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Geotrash

Dave
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I’ll let the wife know it’ll be much more critical after the works done but she knows not to put anything other then E85/92+. I’m usually the one filling it up anyways, she just brings it back like a rental car with a 1/4 tank that’s been rode hard and put away wet…
I'm married to her sister.
 

JPS0284

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Na, nothing to worry about.
So I just got all my cam and a bunch of AFM delete goodies. So I unboxed the cam looking for more paperwork and all that was in the box is this, I thought there was supposed to be a info table or something to give to Black bear?
 

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hagar

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So I just got all my cam and a bunch of AFM delete goodies. So I unboxed the cam looking for more paperwork and all that was in the box is this, I thought there was supposed to be a info table or something to give to Black bear?
You have to email tsp for the tables, or blackbear can.
 

JPS0284

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You have to email tsp for the tables, or blackbear can.
Nice, I got everything ready to go except the headers and the y pipe should be in by the middle of next week. Hoping all goes well and I don’t have to dig out to many busted manifold bolts. Any secret strategies for dealing with that particular issue?
 

hagar

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Nice, I got everything ready to go except the headers and the y pipe should be in by the middle of next week. Hoping all goes well and I don’t have to dig out to many busted manifold bolts. Any secret strategies for dealing with that particular issue?
I use a welder and Weld a nut on the broken bolts if they are flush or better or slightly below the surface. They come out pretty easy, just need to get onto them. Easy put works as well, but keep a super hawk eye on your angles so you don't go off course and hit water. The easy out way is not for beer drinking time, the welding way works with beers.
One other note. The absolute number one screw up people make with the vvt set up is missing the dowel on the camshaft. It goes on pretty blind, so I like to pull it and put it on a few times to be super sure. If the dowel misses the hole, it will at best misfire like crazy, at worst, smack some valves. Other than that, make sure you get all the coolant out of the head bolt holes before bolting down the heads.
Good luck!
 

JPS0284

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I use a welder and Weld a nut on the broken bolts if they are flush or better or slightly below the surface. They come out pretty easy, just need to get onto them. Easy put works as well, but keep a super hawk eye on your angles so you don't go off course and hit water. The easy out way is not for beer drinking time, the welding way works with beers.
One other note. The absolute number one screw up people make with the vvt set up is missing the dowel on the camshaft. It goes on pretty blind, so I like to pull it and put it on a few times to be super sure. If the dowel misses the hole, it will at best misfire like crazy, at worst, smack some valves. Other than that, make sure you get all the coolant out of the head bolt holes before bolting down the heads.
Good luck!
Shop vac the head bolt holes, check. No beers with easyouts, check. For the cams …think I know what your talking about lol, but I’ll try to find some more videos on it tonight.
 

hagar

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Shop vac the head bolt holes, check. No beers with easyouts, check. For the cams …think I know what your talking about lol, but I’ll try to find some more videos on it tonight.
Best to blow them out with compressed air if you have it, unless you have some sort of super skinny ant eater type vac that can reach down 6 inches into a 3/8 hole. Just make sure you wear safety glasses or close your eyes when you give it a shot. No matter how hard you try, coolant always makes it into the holes. On that note. If you ever feel a head bolt feel squishy and not torguing right, stop and check the hole again. If you push through, you can hydraulic it and brake stuff. Every once in a while it happens even if you are careful. Coolant sloshes out of the block passage and into the hole after you thought it was clean. If it feels weird while torque, like it feels like the bolt is spring loaded, stop, and re check.
.
 

JPS0284

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Best to blow them out with compressed air if you have it, unless you have some sort of super skinny ant eater type vac that can reach down 6 inches into a 3/8 hole. Just make sure you wear safety glasses or close your eyes when you give it a shot. No matter how hard you try, coolant always makes it into the holes. On that note. If you ever feel a head bolt feel squishy and not torguing right, stop and check the hole again. If you push through, you can hydraulic it and brake stuff. Every once in a while it happens even if you are careful. Coolant sloshes out of the block passage and into the hole after you thought it was clean. If it feels weird while torque, like it feels like the bolt is spring loaded, stop, and re check.
.
Thanks for the tips I really appreciate it, what pin are you talking about in the cam? Is in the new one now? Ill start looking into after the kids go to bed
 

hagar

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Thanks for the tips I really appreciate it, what pin are you talking about in the cam? Is in the new one now? Ill start looking into after the kids go to bed
Yeah it comes in the cam. It indexes the cam phaser to the camshaft. On a traditional cam sprocket that is non variable timing, you can see the pin on the camshaft go into the sprocket for indexing clear as day. There is zero doubt it is installed because you can see the tip of the pin coming through the hole of the cam sprocket. With the vvt version, it's blind.
 

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