It would be like installing a control board that uses locating dowels, but you miss with the alignment of the dowel, then when you tighten down the board, the dowels crush the board, instead of the board sitting flush. It's super common and I have done it before. Maybe I say it's super common to everyone that will listen, simply because I did it myself, and want to make it sound super possible, but I have read about it happening lots as well.
Input or advice from others on cam swap for 6.2L 2011 Yukon Denali
- Thread starter Denaliz
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I watched some videos of someone installing a vvt cam explaining that the cam pin goes into the oblong hole in the phaser then slowly turning the cam till the timing mark lines up at the 6 o’clock position and the crank timing mark in the 12 o’clock position? I also found a com cams written step by step guide, that mentioned slightly pulling the came out to see check if the pins going into the right spot and following it up by checking it with a straight edge after installing the timing chain.
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So I just got my cam swap done today and went to start the truck and I’m getting a lot of lifter
Noise and no oil pressure. I put a new green melling oil pickup seal on, and replaced the pressure relief. I just read that the rubber seal can tear if it’s not seated to the pump before tightening the bolt…which I do t think I did… I think I let the bolt guide the pick up into the pump…any ideas?
Did you do anything to ensure the pump was primed before cranking the engine? There are a couple of options for this. One is to remove the plug on the drivers side just behind the timing cover and pump some oil into it. It's the galley for the oil pump so pushing oil into it will prime the pump. Another option would have been to take the cover off the pump before install and smear some grease in there to seal the rotor against the cover so it would develop pressure right away.
I didn’t use grease, I used a bunch of assembly lube
which I’m sure just leak back into the pan. When I put the oil pick up into the pump I had the pan completely off and the oil pump bolts were slightly loose, tightened the pickup to the pump then torqued the bolts last. I think I need to get that plug out..I didn’t use grease, I used a bunch of assembly lube
I didn’t use grease, I used a bunch of assembly lube
I tried loosening the plug with a long t handle M8 hex and the plug started to strip out… so next option is to pull the balancer and timing cover… where and how much grease do I apply to the oil pump?
I ended up getting the plug out primed the oil pump with about a quart of oil with a hand pump. Fired it back up and started building oil pressure 40psi ish and smoothed out . I buttoned up a few things and went to fire it back up and lost its prime… so I’m assuming the o ring isn’t sealing?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Add 2 more quarts to test that out. I thought our motors took the orange o-ring? 12584922 or Fel-Pro 72401. Double check.
Seal - Oil Pump Pick Up Tube - 20.69 ID - 4.20 Width
The melling kit I ordered on rockauto came with 2 O rings one for tapered (green) or one with a groove (black) pick up tubes. I have a orange one that came with the timing cover gasket kit that I could use. Does the diverter need to be changed too? Its freakin me out that i
Keep firing it up for a few seconds with no oil pressure, i think I should drop the pan to arrow and check it out…
If you installed the green O-ring, then that’s the right one. Needs to go together with motor oil so that it doesn’t get nicked.
That said, I think your hypothesis is probably correct.
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