Installing a steering damper this week.

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owl_93

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Thanks I appreciate it

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Mr. 960

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so when you install this and the wheels are centered, do you install with the dampener fully extended? Or is their some measurement from the cartridge end to the top of the threaded piston?
 
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Coatwolf

Coatwolf

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I accidently ordered the wrong front shocks. Can't return em. Any reason that I can't whip up some brackets and make it work?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AM5Q9W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry been super busy

The brackets are simple in design but must be pretty stout to absorb all the pressure of the true weight of your steering. If you are the type that fabs a lot of metal work, yes it would be simple - if not... it may be a challenge, the bends must be fairly precise, if you know how to determine your radius for bend points you'll be fine....

Call rough country... ask for the hardware kit, let them know you already have the shock - the hardware kit should be super cheap.

Ill get more pics soon

---------- Post added at 08:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:01 AM ----------

so when you install this and the wheels are centered, do you install with the dampener fully extended? Or is their some measurement from the cartridge end to the top of the threaded piston?

I actually had a buddy show up for that part - this is where a little tweaking comes into play - install with wheels straight, clamp down the rod end bracket tight enough to hold it in place, then turn your wheels and see if you need to move bracket to ensure the rode doesn't bottom out one way or the other, if you are by yourself, extend the rod all the way out and make a mark with a sharpie at the shock body end on the rod so you know about where the end of your rod travel is. then turn the wheels all the way right and left till you know you're in the zone. its really straight forward.
 

hoss08

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I accidently ordered the wrong front shocks. Can't return em. Any reason that I can't whip up some brackets and make it work?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AM5Q9W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I could be wrong but I think the type of absorber they use in a stabilizer setup is different from a regular shock. A shock is build to return to is fully extended length, where a stabilizer shock is built to return to it's "center". Basically a regular shock in place of a stabilizer is going to cause the truck to pull hard to the left or right and youd be fighting the steering wheel all day. As the shock returns to extended length is going to force the wheels to want to turn.
 
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TheAutumnWind

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I could be wrong but I think the type of absorber they use in a stabilizer setup is different from a regular shock. A shock is build to return to is fully extended length, where a stabilizer shock is built to return to it's "center". Basically a regular shock in place of a stabilizer is going to cause the truck to pull hard to the left or right and youd be fighting the steering wheel all day. As the shock returns to extended length is going to force the wheels to want to turn.

Ah interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I do have 2 of these shocks. Maybe I can still do a dual setup.
 

hoss08

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Ah interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I do have 2 of these shocks. Maybe I can still do a dual setup.

Yeah I was thinking about that today since you said you have two shocks. I suppose you might be able to fab them up to oppose each other. But after thinking about that I'm not sure there would really be much benefit since they would essentially cancel each other out by opposing each other. Beyond that, I wouldn't really expect them to last long being they would live most of their lives at least half way compressed. Kind of how lowering springs on stock shocks kills them. By design they would have to be fabbed up to be half way compressed with the wheel straight. That way when you turn you'd allow one to compress while the other extends. You'd have to be pretty careful with the designing to make sure you can turn lock to lock. If the shock fully extends before you get to full lock, well then.... you'd at minimum hurt your turning radius and possibly overstress the steering system. Probably not what you wanted to hear but look on the bright side, a full stabilizer kit is cheap. I just picked up a Skyjacker 9000 stabilizer kit for $50. Ebay has a ton of different options, I did see a few dual stabilizer kits when I was shopping for mine. It seems like a dual stabilizer kit is overkill for guys running under a 35" tire. I heard the duals really sap your power steering and probably isn't good for the system either.
 

TheAutumnWind

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Yeah I was thinking about that today since you said you have two shocks. I suppose you might be able to fab them up to oppose each other. But after thinking about that I'm not sure there would really be much benefit since they would essentially cancel each other out by opposing each other. Beyond that, I wouldn't really expect them to last long being they would live most of their lives at least half way compressed. Kind of how lowering springs on stock shocks kills them. By design they would have to be fabbed up to be half way compressed with the wheel straight. That way when you turn you'd allow one to compress while the other extends. You'd have to be pretty careful with the designing to make sure you can turn lock to lock. If the shock fully extends before you get to full lock, well then.... you'd at minimum hurt your turning radius and possibly overstress the steering system. Probably not what you wanted to hear but look on the bright side, a full stabilizer kit is cheap. I just picked up a Skyjacker 9000 stabilizer kit for $50. Ebay has a ton of different options, I did see a few dual stabilizer kits when I was shopping for mine. It seems like a dual stabilizer kit is overkill for guys running under a 35" tire. I heard the duals really sap your power steering and probably isn't good for the system either.

Yeah I think your right, I'll just have to sell the shocks that I have.
 

Mr. 960

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Hello Steve. My rough country kit came in last night. Just waiting on the rubber boot to start the install. After reading the instructions it looks like it uses the holes for the aluminum skid plate? Can you put the skid plate back on, minus one bolt? Or does that same bolt hold the skid plate and the bracket on.







Sorry been super busy

The brackets are simple in design but must be pretty stout to absorb all the pressure of the true weight of your steering. If you are the type that fabs a lot of metal work, yes it would be simple - if not... it may be a challenge, the bends must be fairly precise, if you know how to determine your radius for bend points you'll be fine....

Call rough country... ask for the hardware kit, let them know you already have the shock - the hardware kit should be super cheap.

Ill get more pics soon

---------- Post added at 08:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:01 AM ----------



I actually had a buddy show up for that part - this is where a little tweaking comes into play - install with wheels straight, clamp down the rod end bracket tight enough to hold it in place, then turn your wheels and see if you need to move bracket to ensure the rode doesn't bottom out one way or the other, if you are by yourself, extend the rod all the way out and make a mark with a sharpie at the shock body end on the rod so you know about where the end of your rod travel is. then turn the wheels all the way right and left till you know you're in the zone. its really straight forward.
 

jough

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Does anyone have experience with both the KYB & RC steering dampeners? I am going to pick up one of them. It looks like the KYB is a few bucks cheaper. The brackets appear to be very similar. The Skyjacker 9196 uses a different mounting method at one end, but still requires a hole to be drilled. Rancho also makes a kit with a different mounting design. The mounting kit is RS 5545 & shock is RS 7402. No drilling on the Rancho mounting kit, but it is much higher $.
 
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