Just bought a 2016 Yukon XL (Denali). 77,000 miles. What should I service first?

[brettofthewild]

New to the forum, just got me a 2016 Yukon XL Denali last Wednesday. 76,800 miles. Black with the "cocoa" interior. Took it on a road trip this past weekend with the wife and our 3 kids; worked beautifully!

Then, I got home and watched this video ("Everything wrong with my Yukon over 3 years") on YouTube and now I'm a little freaked out. Did I purchase a car that won't last me as long as I hoped it will (250k)?

Indy mechanic's pre-purchase inspection notes:
- New tires
- Oil change was just completed
- Fluid levels: Transmission, Brake, Coolant levels are good
- Drive belt: Good
- Front brakes: Good. 10 all around.
- Rear brakes: Acceptable. 6 all around.
- A/C: No AC Condenser issue (he was familiar with this common problem)
- Cabin filter good.
- Other notes: Repaired damage to right front wheel; ball bearing was replaced (said that previous driver must have curb-checked at a high speed, probably - but it was put back together well and as far as he could tell, nothing to worry about unless I start losing air in that tire).


So here's my question: in order to ensure this vehicle lasts a long time, what services should I do right now, at 78,000 miles?

I was thinking the following:
- Transmission fluid flush and replace with Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF
- Valve spring replacements? How much does this cost to get serviced, is it a DIY-able sort of thing?

What else should I get serviced?

 

[NickTransmissions]

New to the forum, just got me a 2016 Yukon XL Denali last Wednesday. 76,800 miles. Black with the "cocoa" interior. Took it on a road trip this past weekend with the wife and our 3 kids; worked beautifully!

Then, I got home and watched this video ("Everything wrong with my Yukon over 3 years") on YouTube and now I'm a little freaked out. Did I purchase a car that won't last me as long as I hoped it will (250k)?

Indy mechanic's pre-purchase inspection notes:
- New tires
- Oil change was just completed
- Fluid levels: Transmission, Brake, Coolant levels are good
- Drive belt: Good
- Front brakes: Good. 10 all around.
- Rear brakes: Acceptable. 6 all around.
- A/C: No AC Condenser issue (he was familiar with this common problem)
- Cabin filter good.
- Other notes: Repaired damage to right front wheel; ball bearing was replaced (said that previous driver must have curb-checked at a high speed, probably - but it was put back together well and as far as he could tell, nothing to worry about unless I start losing air in that tire).


So here's my question: in order to ensure this vehicle lasts a long time, what services should I do right now, at 78,000 miles?

I was thinking the following:
- Transmission fluid flush and replace with Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF
- Valve spring replacements? How much does this cost to get serviced, is it a DIY-able sort of thing?

What else should I get serviced?

Everything is DYI - you just need KT2 (Knowledge, Tools and Time). Time is most folks' biggest constraint.

Do you have any service records for this vehicle?

 

[B-train]

I would do all fluids and filters front to back to start. Rust proof if you live inna salt state. Clean the throttle body and exchange the coolant due to age, not miles. Inspect air shocks for cracking dry rot and replace if needed before they kill the compressor.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

As you approach 100,000 miles, you should consider changing ALL hoses carrying your antifreeze coolant in the engine bay, including the plastic Tees by the firewall.

 

[Nashoba]

I would do all fluids and filters front to back to start. Rust proof if you live inna salt state. Clean the throttle body and exchange the coolant due to age, not miles. Inspect air shocks for cracking dry rot and replace if needed before they kill the compressor.

B-train, I have a question in re my 2018 Denali. You mentioned the air shocks for cracking and dry rot. What about the presence of what looks like oil on the springs around the shocks? I cannot imagine this would be "normal", although it might be???

 

[Gearz]

No oil should be coming from a shock or strut. It means that the seals inside are faulty and need to be replaced. That would fail state inspection in New Hampshire.

 

[petethepug]

Congrats on getting the Denada

Having that knowledge of what goes wrong is your best friend. Enough time has passed from previous owners, warranty and uncovered repairs that a good deal of initial mechanical problems has been cured, but not on your dime. There’s a 6.2 shortage right now, so you did good. Is yours AWD or RWD?

The trans service and oil changes are your friend for low cost longevity. Now is the time to purchase high dollar wear & tear items like seat covers, foam, steering wheels and interior carpet. Most are on clearance for up to 80% off online and eBay stores.

Spending $1-$2h on new rug or steering wheel completely changes your driving experience is they stained or worn. Consider an AFM and immobilizer too.

 

[B-train]

B-train, I have a question in re my 2018 Denali. You mentioned the air shocks for cracking and dry rot. What about the presence of what looks like oil on the springs around the shocks? I cannot imagine this would be "normal", although it might be???

Yes, that can happen as well - you will get some weepage with age as the seals wear. Mine had/have the same issue. Started around 80k for me. Still running them at 133k. I wouldn't worry about that as long as the air bladders are in good shape.

 

[MrMonte]

My Son's 2015 Yukon Denali had AFM lifter & shocks failure at 130K miles with great service record. My 2018 Yukon Denail had AFM lifter failure at 90K miles with great service record. I even had AFM tuned out last 30K miles. I'm doing a mechanical AFM delete on my Yukon now.

They are great vehicles except for the AFM which I would recommend a physical delete.